I've noticed several tuners suggest using an EBC on the 24/18 turbos, but not on the ZC turbos, GT28s or 30s. I know what a EBC does, I just wonder why people tend to use it on the 24/18s and not the others.

 

Just an observation/opinion. It seems the 18G's have such a huge window of performance and people like to have the ability to have a pump setting and a race gas setting, whereas the smaller turbos are usually tuned right to the max boost and the bigger turbos have a limited ceiling on a stock block. Make sense?

 

on the 18gs some tuners like them others dont , they preffer to have the factory ecu failsafes.

and almost everyone that i know that are running anything bigger then a 18 g also run an ebc. 20gs, gt30.35s,

 

evc stands for?

 

"Electronic Valve Controller" hi tech name for a boost controller!!!

 

thanks

 

Thanks, I appreciate it.

 

While I have always had a boost controller in ALL my turbo vehicles, cars and bikes alike. THIS car will never have one, just because of the safety factor that is built in with the stock boost solenoid. It helps that I have a spare ECU for a race gas tune, but nontheless, no EBC for this car, escpecially after the Meth is tuned.

 

My ECU would never provide the amount of boost my engine was designed to sustain so I installed an HKS controller in order to achieve it. I also installed Tial 44mm external waste gates because with compressors in Garrett GT 30 series and larger (maybe 28's too, I've never seen one) there are several offset bends that must be made in the waste gate accuator rods for clearance. As many of you have experienced, these things are full of stress risers and prone to break. My setup has been trouble free for over a year.

ttboost, do you know of any HKS EVC VI units that had a failure in their fail-safe system? It can be set to dial back boost if a pre-determined level is achieved and it is my understanding that if the whole system goes kaput, the springs in my external waste gate valves will be the determinate element for boost bleed off.

 

Al, my issue with an EBC (or EVC) is that it can only cut boost in response to an overboost situation. Bosch Motronic ME7 can cut boost (and retard timing) in response to a number of other factors (knock, IAT, AFR, etc.) as well as overboost. Sometimes, limp mode can be your friend.

 

Seal-
I could be wrong, but I don't think your statement is entirely accurate. A Greddy can cut boost at any level according to user input. You input the point where you want the boost to dial back, then you input how much you want it to pull back.

You could set it to pull back 90% at .6bar if you wanted to. Yes, it only responds to boost, and I think that is your point i.e. it will not consider those other factors, but the user gets to decide the boost level and how much to reduce boost at that spike.

If the user decides overboost is 1.1bar, he can set it to pull back 20% at 1.05 for example...

Am I explaining it right?

 

actualy seal is right i beleive. the factory dme will provide much better safety.

 

Seal Grey Matte,

I entirely agree on the issue of safety with the ME7. I realize I gave up some of that safety to achieve boost which could probably have been done by tinkering with the program. It was not designed to have multiple Eproms or a plug in for the OBDII port so I was stuck with one boost level unless I wanted to spend a lot more money for multiple Eproms.

Now I use the EVC to keep max boost at 1.15 to 1.2 for the track. The EVC gives me the flexibility to adjust down for colder wx and upward when it's hot. I have it adjusted not to go over 1.25 (varies with ambient) so I feel pretty safe about the max boost level that would be possible.

 

I agree with what your saying. You can certainly set your desired boost with an EBC, and you can program the EBC to drastically cut boost in the event of a spike.

What you can't do with an EBC is program it so that it will pull boost in response to the knock sensor getting lit up like a christmas tree due to a bad batch of gas. The EBC has no idea that's going on.

Every other day someone on here is posting that their car went into "limp mode" and is only seeing .7 bar for some strange reason. That is the ECU pulling boost in response to seeing something it didn't like. Maybe that was triggered by a boost spike, or maybe a hose popped off an intercooler or an O2 sensor failed. A boost controller would still have the turbos trying to make the desired boost level under those circumstances, which is not a good thing.

All that said, without a boost controller, I've got no way to crank up the boost if I put race gas in my car. Like everything in life, it's a give and take.

 

$manager you're explaining it right.

Seal Grey, I like your new avatar. You're right too the ECU has more options if it sees something it doesn't like. If one isn't going to run race gas I think staying with the ECU is a good idea. I use a Greedy Pro B and run it on the conservative side.