600+ hp update
#1
600+ hp update
Hey guys,
Just wanted to report (happily) that I've had my 605 hp/625 lb torque upgrade for about a month now and absolutely love it. The car is SO much faster than stock. When I hit the gas at about 3500 rpm (any gear) it literally feels like I'm going to take off and get airborn! In fact, funny story: I was on a plane headed to Florida a few days ago with my family, and as we were in full throttle taking off (peeled to the back of our chairs), my 10 year old son turned to me and said "Daddy, your car is much faster than this plane!" I guess I should chill out a bit when he's in the car.
I signed up for a DE in May (in Monticello, NY) because I'm affraid that I'm not a good enough driver to handle this kind of power! Anyone else going to be in Monticello next month? This will be my first DE. I've been told that they are a hoot.
Anyway, the car has been a blast. Anyone who is looking for a new experience with the same car, I highly recommend a 600 hp upgrade package. They are expensive, but if you've got the $$ to burn, it's worth it! Cheers.
Gary
Just wanted to report (happily) that I've had my 605 hp/625 lb torque upgrade for about a month now and absolutely love it. The car is SO much faster than stock. When I hit the gas at about 3500 rpm (any gear) it literally feels like I'm going to take off and get airborn! In fact, funny story: I was on a plane headed to Florida a few days ago with my family, and as we were in full throttle taking off (peeled to the back of our chairs), my 10 year old son turned to me and said "Daddy, your car is much faster than this plane!" I guess I should chill out a bit when he's in the car.
I signed up for a DE in May (in Monticello, NY) because I'm affraid that I'm not a good enough driver to handle this kind of power! Anyone else going to be in Monticello next month? This will be my first DE. I've been told that they are a hoot.
Anyway, the car has been a blast. Anyone who is looking for a new experience with the same car, I highly recommend a 600 hp upgrade package. They are expensive, but if you've got the $$ to burn, it's worth it! Cheers.
Gary
#6
My car is 605 hp at the crank, not the wheels, according to the F-L dyno. I don't have any time splits, sorry. The PCA is running the DE event at Monticello, so it's not private. The dates are May 21-22, I believe.
Thanks for the comments.
Thanks for the comments.
#7
You'll love it Gary!
monticello is kind of a let down, they only let the non club cars rin on the crappy south course. Wait until you hit limerock, pocono and watkins glen.
c
monticello is kind of a let down, they only let the non club cars rin on the crappy south course. Wait until you hit limerock, pocono and watkins glen.
c
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#8
My k16 car with an EPL tune and a fabspeed gen 1 just dyno'd 420hp and 500tq to the wheels ( awd) on EPL's dyno. What does that translate to when converting to crank numbers?
#9
well, some say you loose 20% for AWD and 15% for RWD. so your 420 to the wheels would be 500 at the crank
#11
I guess I should multiply the 420 by 1.25 to gross it up for a 20% loss factor which gives me 525hp. Is the loss factor for torque the same? If so, that puts me at 625lbs. Do you think my stock clutch is living on borrowed time?
#12
I don't buy 20% for AWD in our cars and the newer AWD cars with torque split and variable output to front wheels. Only 5% of power is being used at the front wheels until a loss of traction is detected, that does not equal 5% more loss through the drivetrain when even cars that run 60/40 only lose 22%. And if you've watched our front wheels try to turn a non connected dyno drum, you'll see that little to no effort is going to the front tires at all on the dyno.
Most K24/flash/exhaust cars put down 500-530 or so (depending on the dyno) and are 600 crank. If it were 20% loss they'd be from 620-653 crank hp and that is not the case. 15-17% loss lines right up with what they should be making.
Most K24/flash/exhaust cars put down 500-530 or so (depending on the dyno) and are 600 crank. If it were 20% loss they'd be from 620-653 crank hp and that is not the case. 15-17% loss lines right up with what they should be making.
#13
We baselined my car when it was stock before ANY mods. My 03 dyno'd AWD (on a Mustang) 336hp/375tq. That is a 19% driveline loss. I use 19% as the loss for MY car. RWD is usually in the 12%-15% area in my experience.
#14
I use 18% as drivetrane loss for AWD. 100%-18% = 82% Then 420/.82 = 512 crank hp.
#15
Actually, 20% for AWD is about right from what I've seen.
As is often pointed out around here, dynos are good for comparison, but not as an objective measure of anything. There are two usefull bits of information a dyno can provide: (i) comparison against your prior state of tune and (ii) comparison against a different car dyno'd on the same exact dyno under the same or very similar conditions (temperature, fuel, barometric pressure, tires, AWD/RWD, heat soak, etc.).
The most useful bit of information one can provide is the % gain over stock. Also, having a baseline reading, assuming the car was performing at factory specifications, allows one to calculate a driveline loss for one's specific car on a specific dyno.
For example, my car baselined bone stock at 334 awhp and 380 awtq. From this, assuming 416 crank hp as rated by Porsche, I calculate 334/416 = 1-(x/100) = 19.7% driveline loss.
I think my last dyno came in at 496hp and 565tq (in very similar weather to the baseline pull). From this I can solve for crank hp like so:
334/416 = 496/x = 617.8hp. Even without solving for crank hp, I can demonstrate a 48.5% gain in hp and torque over stock.
As is often pointed out around here, dynos are good for comparison, but not as an objective measure of anything. There are two usefull bits of information a dyno can provide: (i) comparison against your prior state of tune and (ii) comparison against a different car dyno'd on the same exact dyno under the same or very similar conditions (temperature, fuel, barometric pressure, tires, AWD/RWD, heat soak, etc.).
The most useful bit of information one can provide is the % gain over stock. Also, having a baseline reading, assuming the car was performing at factory specifications, allows one to calculate a driveline loss for one's specific car on a specific dyno.
For example, my car baselined bone stock at 334 awhp and 380 awtq. From this, assuming 416 crank hp as rated by Porsche, I calculate 334/416 = 1-(x/100) = 19.7% driveline loss.
I think my last dyno came in at 496hp and 565tq (in very similar weather to the baseline pull). From this I can solve for crank hp like so:
334/416 = 496/x = 617.8hp. Even without solving for crank hp, I can demonstrate a 48.5% gain in hp and torque over stock.