GT3 Sway Bars on my Car
#1
GT3 Sway Bars on my Car
Hey guys,
I have been looking at sway bars for my car, but not sure if the endlinks are needed. Can someone who has put the GT3 sways on there car let me know.
I would also like to know if we have to do both at the same time, and if there are any consequences or benefits of of each.
Last but not least, can someone point me to a good deal on these?
Thank You,
I have been looking at sway bars for my car, but not sure if the endlinks are needed. Can someone who has put the GT3 sways on there car let me know.
I would also like to know if we have to do both at the same time, and if there are any consequences or benefits of of each.
Last but not least, can someone point me to a good deal on these?
Thank You,
#4
The GT3 front bar does not fit our cars. The GT3 doesn't have AWD and the front suspension geometry is completely different. Talk to Dan @ Vivid (no affiliation) or TRG.
UPDATE: Apparently the above statement is wrong. Some people here are using GT3 front sway bars with no problem. I was misinformed. You do need adjustable drop links, though, to be able to avoid interference with the lower control arm and the axle.
UPDATE: Apparently the above statement is wrong. Some people here are using GT3 front sway bars with no problem. I was misinformed. You do need adjustable drop links, though, to be able to avoid interference with the lower control arm and the axle.
Last edited by FAST FWD; 04-16-2009 at 09:14 AM. Reason: Erroneous statement
#7
Here's where I posted about my GT3 sway bar problem last summer. Yes, you really do need the drop links.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-dont-mix.html
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-dont-mix.html
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#9
You can do GT3 rear and H&R front. I do beleive you'll need new drop links on the GT3 ones though.
You actually only NEED the rear sway though, unless you don't have coilovers, then a front sway will help balance the car under load. But it will also increase understeer, which is NOT what you want. The rear will make the car turn a heck of a lot better. The car is plenty fast with just a set of coilovers and a rear sway.
You actually only NEED the rear sway though, unless you don't have coilovers, then a front sway will help balance the car under load. But it will also increase understeer, which is NOT what you want. The rear will make the car turn a heck of a lot better. The car is plenty fast with just a set of coilovers and a rear sway.
#10
I put GT-3 sway bar on the front of my '03. The GT-3 drop links caused rubbing and full turn of the steering wheel. I went back to the OEM drop links with the GT-3 sway bar and have had no problem since. The front sway bar set to soft has balanced the car very well, eliminating all pushing. I can get 4 wheel drift in turns (when I dare).
#13
i just want to corner a little better in the rear.
I have no plans at this time to do coil-overs or springs.
I will be doing an exhaust and tune once I get the ok from wifey.
Thanks for all the replies, but still not clear yet.
GT3 bar (REAR is strong and lighter than stock), does not need drop links.
GT3 bar (FRONT does not fit the turbo), but the H&R does, but is heavier than stock but stronger. Does or does not need droplinks?
Am I on the right track?
I have no plans at this time to do coil-overs or springs.
I will be doing an exhaust and tune once I get the ok from wifey.
Thanks for all the replies, but still not clear yet.
GT3 bar (REAR is strong and lighter than stock), does not need drop links.
GT3 bar (FRONT does not fit the turbo), but the H&R does, but is heavier than stock but stronger. Does or does not need droplinks?
Am I on the right track?
#14
This response is a mix of opinion and experience. I have GT3 rear bar, don't recall whose droplinks, but they were new, and TRG bar/links up front. I think that you need both bars. I started with just the rear, but still could not tune out the understeer until I got the front bar, and GT3 lower control arms to get more negative camber.
In the front, adjustable length drop links are an absolute necessity. The bar fits between the axle and the lower control arm. There is *NOT* much room there. So depending on your ride height, and alignment, you have to adjust the drop link length very carefully.
In my case, I also have the GT3 lower control arms. When I put in all of the shims to get max negative camber (track setting), I have to shorten the drop links in order to avoid contact with the control arms. Similarly, with all of the shims out for street setting, I have to lengthen the drop links to avoid rubbing on the axle. It sounds complicated, but really it's just two turns on the drop link, and I'm under there anyway to change the shims. If you don't go back and forth, or use all of the shims, you can set the drop link length and forget about it.
To set the position, you need to have weight on the suspension. I don't have a lift, so I jack the car and lower the front wheels onto some ramps (can't drive it on 'cause the car is too low). Everything is accessible from underneath. Make the bar closer to the control arm when the wheels are straight - it only moves up, not down. Check for interference by moving the wheels to full lock.
On a scale of 1 (starting the car) to 10 (rebuilding the engine), changing the rear bar is a 2 and the front is a 3.
Hope that helps.
Jon
In the front, adjustable length drop links are an absolute necessity. The bar fits between the axle and the lower control arm. There is *NOT* much room there. So depending on your ride height, and alignment, you have to adjust the drop link length very carefully.
In my case, I also have the GT3 lower control arms. When I put in all of the shims to get max negative camber (track setting), I have to shorten the drop links in order to avoid contact with the control arms. Similarly, with all of the shims out for street setting, I have to lengthen the drop links to avoid rubbing on the axle. It sounds complicated, but really it's just two turns on the drop link, and I'm under there anyway to change the shims. If you don't go back and forth, or use all of the shims, you can set the drop link length and forget about it.
To set the position, you need to have weight on the suspension. I don't have a lift, so I jack the car and lower the front wheels onto some ramps (can't drive it on 'cause the car is too low). Everything is accessible from underneath. Make the bar closer to the control arm when the wheels are straight - it only moves up, not down. Check for interference by moving the wheels to full lock.
On a scale of 1 (starting the car) to 10 (rebuilding the engine), changing the rear bar is a 2 and the front is a 3.
Hope that helps.
Jon
#15
I installed the H&R sways on mine and they made a world of difference. The kicker is, you asked where to get a deal. I got mine on ebay, never installed, shipped for $125 for both!!!!