Took my car for a spin last night and it felt gutless.
I look under the car and the passenger side wastegate actuator
rod broke for a second time.

The driver side rod is straight (would be easy to replace),

The passenger side rod has a custom bend in it so it makes
it a little trickier.

ARE THERE ANY IMPROVED PIECES USED FOR THIS ????

Tony and you guys doing alot of K24/18g's ??

MK

 

See what happens...

 

If you get creative, you can use a straight rod on the passenger side as well...

I say, dont bother fixing it again....just upgrade to gt30's .

 

I say, dont bother fixing it again....just upgrade to gt30's .[/quote]

+1..Tony i shot you a email.

 

just go external wastegates and get it over with. thats what i did .

 

I am on my third rod now. I was "told" this is a super special rod and it wont break.
when it breaks next time I am going to external waste gates or a new turbo set up.
no question anyone with this set up should be well aware of this situation.
mine last broke at the beginning of a FOUR day track event.

symtoms are basically car runs perfectly fine no lights but boost is sub normal.

my car ran for four days on one turbo (yeah I am stupid and didnt know, car ran so well otherwise I still wanted to run)

two questions one what are people in general to do for best solution
also any damage from running on one turbo

Marty sorry to hear about your problem but I really do know how you feel.

 

I have a brand new design on my GT30's that EVOMS put on my car just before it left Tempe. Maybe the ones they are using now might work?

Send an e-mail to Ian ian@evoms.com just a thought

Ben

 

Marty, I just replaced a passenger side rod that broke about 3 weeks ago (second time) . Todd at EVO informed me that they have corrected the problem (hopefully for good) by starting the rod thread farther away from the bend. They have also used a better coating (the same one Porsche uses) on the rod to better withstand the heat.

When I compared the new rod to the old one, I could definitely see an enhancement in design. The rod seems thicker (that's what she said ) and there is a larger area of solid rod before the thread begins. Mine always broke right at the bend where the thread began, now the thread is only on the straight portion of the rod, so that weak point no longer exists. Give him a call, he'll send you 2 new rods.

 

If these bends arent created as "rolled" bends there will always be stress risers no matter where the threading ends. Rolled is like making the bend around a small piece of round stock as opposed to putting it in a vice and making a quick angle. Even the rolled bends failed in my experience; I made some of my own.

Evoms may have something new and better. I didn't know of availability at the time I was breaking all mine. I never found a rod that would last a long time with the 30's. The best Tial had to offer also failed.

As Tom already mentioned, his next solution is external waste gates (I have 44mm Tial.) I promise if you do that you'll never again break another waste gate actuator rod. Feel free to ask me why.

Tony (EPL), I thought the diameter of the 30 compressor housing was larger than the 18. Wouldn't that require larger offsets for the rods? It would seem to me those would be more likely to break than the rods for 18's.

 

Thanks so much guys.
I am keeping the turbos for now as the car has run perfectly for 25,000 miles since
it left Protomotive 3 years ago. (My car just turned 50,000 miles )
I absolutely love driving it.
I will call Todd at EVOMS. I like the fact they are continuing to develop improved products.

MK

 

Is an external controlled by an EBC or can the stock ECU/solenoid remain?

 

Not sure what you mean by solenoid but you may be talking about the boost pressure control valve (Porsche terminology) which is the little canister-like piece the actuator rod connects to on one end. It is removed and the waste gate in the turbo is sealed off. Some weld it and others make a threaded rod assembly to close it off; I think the latter is the best way. I believe Vivid Racing may have some pictures of what I'm talking about. Check their website. You simply take the hose off the control valve and attach it to the middle banjo fitting with the barbed end. With that configuration the ECU controls the boost which is the safest way to do it. The top fitting just vents to atmosphere or is used in another way if you add an electronic boost controller. There is another recent thread (forget the title) where the pros and cons are discussed concerning the EBC's.

 

I believe that the boost pressure control valve is a solenoid that controls pressure which is directed by the ECU. So can you go to an external wastegate and remain with your stock ECU to control the boost or do you have to go to an EBC?

 

I think 9Eleven is referring to the N75 valve. This is the electronically (ECU) controlled solenoid that cycles on and off to allow a specified amount of manifold pressure to reach the wastegate actuators thereby opening and closing them. This is how the ECU controls boost.

 

You don't have to use an electronic boost controller with external waste gates but you do have to remove the boost pressure control valves and seal off the OEM flapper valve unless you can figure a way to seal off the waste gates with the control valves in place. It's been so long since I removed mine that I can't remember if they get in the way of what I anchored to when sealing off the flappers. I just remember that I took them off. The solenoid Seal Grey Matte is referring to (boost pressure timing valve) remains in place and functional and your ECU interacts with the external waste gates.