996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Correcting rear camber.. the right way to do it?

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  #31  
Old 03-23-2011, 07:47 AM
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600 is pricey for GMG ones. What is everyone using??
 
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  #32  
Old 03-23-2011, 09:19 AM
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I bought a set of GT3RSR adjustable toe links off a 6speed member. Have yet to install them yet but am planning to do so soon. Tarrett toe links I've heard are good, which as was said earlier, are based off a Porsche part. Half of the Tarrett link looks basically identical to my GT3RSR toe links.
 
  #33  
Old 03-23-2011, 11:33 AM
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Thanks, where can I find the Tarrett Link's. Unfortunately, I'm not pulling anything up in my google search. Thanks Nor Cal Turbo!

Originally Posted by Nor Cal Turbo
I bought a set of GT3RSR adjustable toe links off a 6speed member. Have yet to install them yet but am planning to do so soon. Tarrett toe links I've heard are good, which as was said earlier, are based off a Porsche part. Half of the Tarrett link looks basically identical to my GT3RSR toe links.
 
  #34  
Old 03-23-2011, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Nor Cal Turbo
I bought a set of GT3RSR adjustable toe links off a 6speed member. Have yet to install them yet but am planning to do so soon. Tarrett toe links I've heard are good, which as was said earlier, are based off a Porsche part. Half of the Tarrett link looks basically identical to my GT3RSR toe links.
happen to have part numbers?
 
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  #35  
Old 03-23-2011, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by boochook
Thanks, where can I find the Tarrett Link's. Unfortunately, I'm not pulling anything up in my google search. Thanks Nor Cal Turbo!
You can find them on tarett's website tarett.com it is listed as rear toe control arm. I think Porsche By Ken (PBK) is selling these same ones as well and has an add in the vendor section.

Originally Posted by prodigymb
happen to have part numbers?
I'll check the part numbers for you when I get home.
 
  #36  
Old 04-10-2011, 01:28 PM
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Mike,

I recently had H&R springs installed on my '03 TT and it did drop my car a full inch.
So while I am happy with the way the car looks, I was told I should add a set of rear toe arms ? that if I don't the inside of my 315/25/19 inch tires will wear out to quickly ?


Any thoughts or advice ?

What parts ? would you recommend to set my car up properly as well as keep the insides of my tires from wearing out too quickly ?

THKS - JIM
 
  #37  
Old 04-10-2011, 05:46 PM
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Listen, what kills these rear tires are the amount of rear toe, not the camber. To get the negative camber you want, use the GT3 lower arms front and rear (POMO or RSS are good)
Get up to -2.0 to -2.5 with no problem. Then get rear toe links (Again POMO or RSS) to get the desired toe in after lowering and cambering. I recommend the minimum spec for toe in at front and rear. If setting up for track use, I like minimum to zero toe at the rear, and a smidge of toe out at the front. Makes the car feel busy at lower speeds, But up in the gear it settles in and is relatively stable. I also feel it improves turn in, and allows for getting up off a corner, sooner and a little faster.
Peace out, temporarily doing the NASCAR thing in N.C.
Jayster.
 
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Old 04-12-2011, 09:54 PM
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Mike,

Did adding rear upper dogbones correct your tire wearing issue ? If so, where did you buy your upper dog bones ? what brand are they ? and what did they cost ?

I ask, as I recently installed H&R springs on my '03 996 TT and while I am very pleased with the way my TT looks, I was told by a Porsche friend that I now need
to install new adjustable rear control arms to prevent my the inside of my 315/25/10 inch tires from wearing out.

What would you recommend to prevent the inside of the rear tires from wearing out too quickly ?

Thanks and PLS advise - JIM
 
  #39  
Old 04-12-2011, 11:35 PM
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Rear toe in and negative camber move inversely with each other with the stock eccentrics. As you try to correct for too much toe in you add too much negative camber the stock eccentrics cannot compensate for. If you have already installed lowering springs only (depending on how much lower the car is) you might get away with adjustable toe links only. (Wider rear tires and wheels with different offsets can exacerbate the problem.) For a street car with just lowering springs I would start with a adjustable toe links to see if you can get closer to -1.0 degrees camber with minimal toe in. If you cannot, then the next step is dog bones which allow you to push the tire inward or outward from the top edge. They will give you sufficient camber adjustment in conjunction with the toe links to get back to stock alignment specs. Lower GT2 control arms have different width shims that allows the lower edge of the tire to be pushed inward or outward thereby changing the camber from the bottom of the tire rather than the top. Pillow ball mounts replace the rubber mounting at the top of the shock tower. While these can also be adjusted to push the top edge of the tire inward or outward (thereby changing camber), they are used to remove any deflection in the rubber shock mounts to maintain the set alignment under lateral suspension load. Obviously for a street car you don't need all four of these mods.
Dog bones and toe links will be more than sufficient for most street applications. Why might you need both? The solution for each car is not the same due to ride height (and the ability to adjust it), tire size and wheel offset. No one wants to hear they have to pay to have the entire rear suspension redone and aligned. But the "do nothing" approach is to replace rear tires every 5K miles. The next question is seems to be what manufacturer's parts to buy once you figure out what you need. The board has many sponsors that offer quality versions of these suspension parts. GMG, Tarrett, TRG and Agency Power come to mind. As to cost. If you bought a Porsche thinking it was going to be inexpensive like a Honda, you made a mistake. These modification parts appeal to a very limited market and are expensive to make as they are not mass produced. Not to dis anyone on the board, but lowering springs are a symptom of trying the least expensive approach on a car that doesn't react well to the lowest common denominator.
 
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