yup, took all that stuff out late last year. It adds up to quite a bit of weight. are you running half a tank? or full

 

Yeah, I think it's right about 50lbs or so altogether including rear wiper delete too, almost the same as a RWD conversion (70lbs?). I try to keep fuel right about a 1/4 tank or so. Not too much, but enough to not suck air. Same tactic for 60-130's..light as possible....

 

yeah, I start at half a tank. I need to weigh the car at the scales. I got those carbon GT3 replica seats comming, so that should eliminate about 40 lbs. LWFW should remove another 20.

 

you will need higher revs to spin the tires and avoid bogging the engine. this is a awd car and it needs to be abused a bit.

i like 5000rpm launches, which get enough wheelspin to avoid falling off boost but still get a hookup quickly. but this is on street launches. a dragstrip with vht, i wouldn't be surprised if you use 6000rpm to get the same result (with the resulting faster 60ft time).

anything less than 5000rpm, i think you cause a lot of driveline stress and possible damage.

 

makes sense, since you are above the peak torque. But if you get that hop, things go bad.

what TIRES are you guys using.

 

wheel hop...i havent experienced it with 993/996 cars doing the 5000rpm launches. i think that if you're getting wheel hop, you have to either 1-launch harder to cause wheelspin, or 2-launch softer and avoid the wheel hop.

why don't you try some different techniques to see what works best for any given tire? go to a deserted road and mess around a bit.

whatever you do...as soon as you have the higher track grip, its going to exhaberate any problems. so try launching in a less stressful situation, and leave the track for when you know what to expect. these cars arent cheap to repair.

 

Preventative measure, still have the stock axles in boxes in case we ever need them. We did replace the differential after hearing an audible wine, turns out prior to purchasing the car, the 2nd gear syncro was replaced and a piece installed backwards leading to the wine. I'm sure the differential was a wide preventative upgrade as we will be beating on the car much harder. We have the Tilton clutch in the car, which is one of the most robust slipable clutches you can buy for any power level.

 

good Point I have tried a side road and it leaves good, Tried a main road not so good possible because of crap on the road, And we have a Cement Highway here and it leaves like Jack the Bear! I find the 2 stepworks great that its building boost and give you the right amount of power to come out of the hole.

 

you are talking turbos right? I noticed you have an NA car in your avatar. Turbos are completely different and the amount of torque they bring to the table is considerably more. Totally different way of driving a 911 off the line.

 

Let's see those times now brother.

 

The Tilton's are certainly worth it, but I really wouldn't do another clutch change unless my current CM STage 3ish or 4ish were toast.... I hated doing the clutch.

Do they make a 20 inch drag radial?

Good Luck in PR!

 

you're welcome, maybe next time, I will crank up the boost and see what she will do(trap wise, that is). I really don't feel like putting on DR's as it is my street car(fair weather daily).

The run was at SAR(San Antonio Raceway in Seguin).

Justin

 

Thanks, that was at 20psi... I will go back when I get finished with this slew of business travel and crank up the boost. I doubt those turbos are waking up yet
Justin

 

Most aggressive clutches are very slippable at higher rpms.... it's the lower rpms(and minimal torque) that make the clutches "unslippable".

I think 3500-3800 ish with moderate slip(for my particular setup) should equate to a nice 1.8ish 60ft on street tires in rwd.

Justin

 

so probably 4500-5000 for AWD or 4k on the 2 step...