Yeah at a A/F of 21, it's not likely they would have finished that dyno run!!!

 

We call that a KABOOOM.

 

Ding Ding Ding!

I agree, I would like to know as well....Ask them to give you all values inputted during your test. They should be able to pull all this info....

 

not available, will try to get one.

 

If you can verify or know that your A/F is OK, this will be one of the better tell tales of performance as is Trap speed at a drag strip. If you are in fact in the 450-475 awhp range, you should be in the 7-7.5 second 60-130 range? or a 120-125 trap speed...anyone disagree? If you're quicker or faster, you have your answer on the dyno numbers.

 

so in other words you guys suspect that the dyno correction factors are way off? This would make sense since he was told by the dyno operator that their correction factor was 30%. if you correct up to BHP, that w9ould be 665, which is a logical number. correcting back down for 18% wheel loss, you get about 540 awhp.

Now the AF has to be non measured.

 

Yes, this was the cheapest upgrade ever! I just gained 86HP from simply logging on tonight. I have a 1000hp car now!!!!

Old numbers 752AWHP/.82= 917hp 18%loss
New numbers 752AWHP/.75=1003hp 25%loss

Just giving you a hard time Dan, thanks for the free hp

 

Thanks for the hard time. I have tried to get what EVOMS sets there Mustang Dyno to, but they wont share stating there is "other factors". The problem is you can manipulate so much how these read. So there dyno might read 50HP more or less then mine. I have dynoed in the past some of their cars and they are definitely different then there published dynos. But dynos dont mean crap anyways. What matters is your before after to see your gain as well as your 60-130 time. What matters even more no matter who does your work or what it reads is THAT YOU ARE HAPPY!

 

Dan, I really am just giving you a hard time I have bought from you in the past and have had zero issues. I agree that these dynos are circular arguments. But more to the point, I guess I have never heard of such a high loss factor before...thats all.

 

This week has been full of people busting my *****. It is ok Seriously we always use a 20-25% drivetrain loss.

 

Sorry bro, I checked the calendar. I could have swore next week was when we bust your nuts!

 

Monday is June 1st. I hope to start off at 8am with a good one I am out! Have a good weekend.

 

Do any of the dyno settings really matter? As was said and most know, it's NOT the number, but the CHANGE in number that matters...

 

The reason the dyno operator wanted to use a 30% correction factor is because that translates to a higher fwhp number. For example, say you made 465 awhp. To slove for the fwhp number you divide the power generated to the wheels (awhp or rwhp if it's two wheel drive) by the drivetrain loss. The typical drivetrain loss for awd is 20%. 465/.8 (100%-20%=80% or .8 of a whole number of 1) = 581 fwhp. This is power the engine is producing at the crankshaft. Now if you use a 30% correction factor we get 465/.7 = 664 at the crank. It what's known as massaging the numbers. This makes the customer happy because he thinks he's making an extra 664-581= 83 hp. I don't believe anyone who tells me to use a 30% correction factor unless we're running 6 wheel drive or something. That said, no two dynos read alike. If in their experience they have found that their dyno correction is say 17 to 22 percent I may believe that but not 30%. I hope this answered your question.

 

it does matter, because when I dyno my car I am going to have the dyno guy put a 90% correction faster and I WILL have the faster car in de verld.