Bit of a silly question - but I'm getting ready to do a brake job on all 4 wheels at the same time and thought it'd be best to get the whole car off the ground on axle stands. This way I can bleed more easily.

I've done many brake jobs in the past but only one wheel at a time.

Issue is I have the standard jack plus a trolley jack - the trolley jack is too tall to get under the standard jacking points.

So I was wondering if there was any other safe point for the trolley jack to lift with thereby enabling the axle stands to be put in place on the regular jacking points.

I had seen the whole rear of a turbo being lifted off the ground by using a trolley jack on the engine casing - but wasn't too keen on that approach.

Any tips ?

Just trying to minimize the effort / time involved.

 

I have several 2 x 6's that I use to drive the car onto so that I can get the jack under the jack points. In the rear I use the main suspension beam connection points. I have not had all 4 corners up at the same time however.

 

I use a low profile jack with a hockey puck, I lift at the jack points and position the jacks on the inboard part of the suspension pieces. Be careful lowering and make sure the car is squarely on the stands.

Another option for the rear is to jack up on the center of the engine block, definitely use a piece of wood or hockey puck as a buffer between the jack and block. You can lift the entire rear of the car and position jacks in the factory jack positions.

 

good points. that is not my hockey puck is it?

 

What's left of it anyway :-)

 

I am watching this thread carefully as I have researched this question here and on Rennlist.

Through all that I have not found a response that I have felt confident in. Guys far more knowledgeable than me say use the center of the engine block, which my owners manual says is verboten. Adrian Streathers book provides 3 or 4 pages of words and pictures and concludes with a photo copy of the manual showing the scissors jack.

D33..'s suggestion of using the suspension points seems the best and most logical. I don't remember if I saw points in the front that gave me much confidence.

His point about lowering carefully should be scrupulously followed.

Anybody else want to weigh in on this?

 

Hi Guy's
Thanks for the feedback - and yes careful use axle stands on the in board suspension mounts would seem the most logical, just not sure about the front mounts. I agree the use of a jack on the engine housing might work, but I'd be concerned about long term latent problems caused by such a technique.

David C - any more advice gleaned from Adrian Streathers book you'd care to share ?

 

Tim,

Others might disagree, and I have not read the entire book, but in my opinion it looks good on the shelf but is lacking real usable information.

Again, my opinion, but it seems to me that he does not completely understand the technical aspects of what he is writing about. He tries to include every bit of information that he assembled without regard to it's significance or use.

He talks about stalling the turbines when surge actuall occurs in the compressor. Three or four pages on jacking with a photo of a Porsche on it;s side and an amusing caption, and no real information on how to jack up the car. Near the back of the book a multi-page translation of German words to English and then, in a failed attempt at humor, a translation of American english using words, such as "stop lamp" which we don't use.

Just my opinion; and maybe someone else has a different one which I would be happy to read and consider.

David

 

hey guys this is what i have done for years... it works great

 

I have lifted from the engine but not where coloinc did. I slide a low profile jack and lift from the seam in the case right below the oil drain plug in colorinc's first picture. Then I place jack stands on the lift points on either side of the car.

In the front, you can lift the car on the lift point and place a jack stand on the triangular piece of metal inboard of the lift point - that is structurally a part of the frame. if you don't want to do that, just lift on rear jack points on one side, put stands on front jack points, repeat on the other side and then jack up the rear and the whole car is up in the air.

 

That's exactly how I do it, except my jack isn't pretty yellow
Sorry Tim...had to...

 

rep points to ya bro

t

 

colorinc... are those nitto invo tires I see? If so what do you think of them?

 

yup they are invo's i really like them they are sticky and they are quite on the hwy...

 

I assume that this can be done on an older non-turbo 996 right? TIA!