can someone translate this for me, am i right in thinking this is really bad, car has 9200 miles, its a 2002tt, i was about to sign on the dotted line tomorrow to buy it, should i pass ?


404.9

 

Here is the translation. The car has 404.9 operating hours. The hour for range 1 was essentially when the last ignition occurred. Now I wouldn't be too concerned with the type 1s or to be honest the type 2s (probably missed one shift). So is the car flashed? There is debate over the meaning of type 2s and their potential damage (Porsche has been known to deny warranty due to type 2s)...you can search for more on this. Are you buying the car from a private party or stealer? Is there any warranty (extended) left? if not....I would say it's not a big deal. If you like the car go for it. If it is from a dealer have them document it...I guess.

 

i'm buying from a non porsche dealer, no warranty, planningon flashing it and some other mods in the next few months, car is mint and exactly what i've been looking for

a soon as i got the dme i searched and saw a few posts with really low numbers so seeing 17000 on my report freaked me out

it doesnt bother me buying a car that might not have been driven perfectly but i dont want one that was beaten to hell and back and likely to fall apart shortly as a result

 

The hours # next to the igniton count is the # of hours the LAST ignition (overrev) occured, so if the car has 404.9 hrs, the last overrev occured recently, and the # of ignitions is a total number and not how many were there on the last overrev. That said, the LATEST ignitions occured recently, maybe the dealer had too much fun.

As far as total # of ignitions, the number is high for the mileage. The #2 ignitions are VERY high and would cause me to worry.

For perspective, here are the numbers of the two cars i looked at:

Car #1 - 45,000 miles, 1000ish total hours of operation, 27,000 Type 1, 76 type 2.

Car #2 - 25,000 miles, 400ish hours of operation, 13,000 Type 1, 130 Type 2 - this is the car I bought.

If I was buying the car, my thoughts would be:

1) The car was driven in stoplight-to-stoplight conditions based on the # of hours/mileage, so mileage is not a good measure of wear and tear
2) Someone beat the **** out of the car and drove it at redline in 1st/2nd quiet a bit (unless the car is flashed - still does not warrant 1300 Type 2s - that's high.
3) The car mileage is possibly not true

I guess it all depends on what you plan on doing with the car, but if you are looking for an unabused car, I don't think this is the car you are looking for.

 

I referred to this old post. After some checking the hour is of the last time the event occurred (as the poster above notes). However, Ignitions are cumulative, for the life of the control module. Every time the rev limiter is
used the values are incremented until they reach the maximum stored value of 65535. Once 65535 is reached the value will always read 65535 regardless of how many time the
rev limiter is used. There are approximately 350 ignitions/second @7000rpm...so less than 4 seconds of range 2 for the life of the car....I copied the math....LOL

 

If you're referring to the way which overrevs are recorded hour-wise, tvr-4 is correct.

(replied too slow)

 

Someone over reved it a few hours ago....both type 1 and 2. THe sales guys are beating the **** out of it....

It isn't so much how many over-revs, but what damage might be there. If it was 200 hours ago, you can probably be assured there was no resultant effects. With recent over revs you wonder if something might have been impacted yet it hasn't manifested.

How extensive was your PPI? Compression and leakdown? How knowledgeable was the mechanic/inspector?

 

Great question, and to add to this, do you KNOW/TRUST the mechanic/dealer that did the PPI.

I had the dealer miss a bumper repaint on TWO different cars - not that it is a big deal, but what else did they miss?

This is just me, but i would NOT buy ANY car on a PPI/carfax basis alone, check it out yourself, or have someone that knows these cars who you trust check the car.

Good luck, TK

 

i think i may back out

ppi from a porsche dealer was clean but if the car was driven that badly i'm not sure i want to rick a gearbox or engine rebuild

 

"Clean"? What did they say about the DME data? Zero concerns? Did you check for second gear pop out? Did they? Do they know how? Did you ask? Dont assume since they are a P dealer they 'must know how to do an adequate PPI'... Nor should you assume the mechanics are skilled bodywork experts.

Are you buying it from this same dealer or someone else?

Finally, what exactly did the PPI include?

A

 

Exactly, you're paying for it, TELL them what you want to know...don't just let them tell you what they want. If they miss something, they will just say "You didn't ask us to look for that".

 

dme is enough to make me not want this car anymore, i'm backing out

i did not talk to him after i got the report, i talked to you guys instead, its not the dealer selling the car its a different dealer, i asked for 2nd gear popout and rms specifically, what else should i ask to check ? other than what would normally be included in a ppi from a p car dealer

 

can you go and test drive the car if you like i am in winchester ma you can use my durametric tool to check for your self

 

thanks for the offer, i was in winchester yesterday

car is in detroit

i passed already, i'm back to the original one i wanted, maybe its fate

its going in for dme/ppi on monday, what else should i ask the tech to check for other than 2nd gear popout and rms ?

 

how many miles on car if can check maint. records also what year