Very urgent need help now!!
#16
07-02-2009, 12:08 PM
Guys, forget about voltage.
I can rub my feet on the carpet and generate hundreds of volts, but it won't turn the starter.
When a battery fails, it cannot supply CURRENT. Voltages may be fine, there is enough current to run lights, power on computer, etc, but not enough to engage the starter or starter solenoid.
Been there, done that.
I can rub my feet on the carpet and generate hundreds of volts, but it won't turn the starter.
When a battery fails, it cannot supply CURRENT. Voltages may be fine, there is enough current to run lights, power on computer, etc, but not enough to engage the starter or starter solenoid.
Been there, done that.
#22
07-02-2009, 07:49 PM
Registered User
I love you guys
First of all, I'd like to make a public disclaimer that If you're not mechanically inclined and clueless about cars you might hurt yourself or damage your car for which I'm not willing to take responsibility so proceed at your own risk. I'd troubleshoot in the following sequence.
The following sequence is assuming that your engine doesn't turn over and your battery is good as this is how I understood it from your post.
1. Remove the battery terminals and clean with a wire brush. (of course when you're done reconnect it)
2. Hook up a voltmeter to the battery terminals with wiress long enough so that you can see the volt meter when you turn the ignition and hold it for 3-5 seconds( as to crank it). This way if the volts drop you should be able to tell if when you turn the key there is a signifficant current draw. If there is, than something is stuck, holding the engine or starter from turning the motor, keep reading. If not proceed to #3. So if there is current draw than do this:
a. Apply the emergency brake, engage the clutch, get the car in neutral(this is important that the car is in neutral and not in gear with the clutch just pressed in), try to start it. If the engine turns over/starts than your problem is most likely the clutch related. if not go to "b"
b. Get under the car, find the starter and tap it firmly but gently with a hammer. The idea is that a lot of times, when the brushes get worn, they will not seat property/ get hanged up and fail to make contact with the starter's rotor so the starter will not crank. If you tap it it might just make it work but still get it changed out as the tapping is a temporary fix.
3. So, if you're reading this than there was no significant draw of current from the battery when you tried cranking, indicating that your problem is most likely electrical. Could be a lot of things, ignition switch, relay, fuse, selenoid. First check your fuses and make sure they all are good. Second Check your relay. I believe it's #7 in the relay box, look it up in the manual, and easiest way to do so is to swap it with another relay in the box if there is one with the same part number, you can usually tell by looking at it. If still no go, report back and tell me step by step in details what happened when you first went to start the car after the initial 20 minutes. Good Luck.
First of all, I'd like to make a public disclaimer that If you're not mechanically inclined and clueless about cars you might hurt yourself or damage your car for which I'm not willing to take responsibility so proceed at your own risk. I'd troubleshoot in the following sequence.
The following sequence is assuming that your engine doesn't turn over and your battery is good as this is how I understood it from your post.
1. Remove the battery terminals and clean with a wire brush. (of course when you're done reconnect it)
2. Hook up a voltmeter to the battery terminals with wiress long enough so that you can see the volt meter when you turn the ignition and hold it for 3-5 seconds( as to crank it). This way if the volts drop you should be able to tell if when you turn the key there is a signifficant current draw. If there is, than something is stuck, holding the engine or starter from turning the motor, keep reading. If not proceed to #3. So if there is current draw than do this:
a. Apply the emergency brake, engage the clutch, get the car in neutral(this is important that the car is in neutral and not in gear with the clutch just pressed in), try to start it. If the engine turns over/starts than your problem is most likely the clutch related. if not go to "b"
b. Get under the car, find the starter and tap it firmly but gently with a hammer. The idea is that a lot of times, when the brushes get worn, they will not seat property/ get hanged up and fail to make contact with the starter's rotor so the starter will not crank. If you tap it it might just make it work but still get it changed out as the tapping is a temporary fix.
3. So, if you're reading this than there was no significant draw of current from the battery when you tried cranking, indicating that your problem is most likely electrical. Could be a lot of things, ignition switch, relay, fuse, selenoid. First check your fuses and make sure they all are good. Second Check your relay. I believe it's #7 in the relay box, look it up in the manual, and easiest way to do so is to swap it with another relay in the box if there is one with the same part number, you can usually tell by looking at it. If still no go, report back and tell me step by step in details what happened when you first went to start the car after the initial 20 minutes. Good Luck.
Last edited by adam699; 07-02-2009 at 07:51 PM.
#23
07-02-2009, 07:59 PM
Registered User
Ok guys, when i turn the key all the way to the right, NOTHING HAPPENS. no crank no anything, pretty much dead silence(Except for the whirring sound that u get when u turn it all the way to the right...i am going to try to jump it again today...battery was a lil below 12 volts...any more ideas? I heard if it was the igntition switch that I would have a hard time getting the key out etc(which is not happening to me). I also checked my floormats lol, sadly they were not impeding the clutch pedal.
Tell me more about the whirring sound.....
#25
07-14-2009, 08:05 PM
Had that problem....
the clutch pedal switch was intermittent - so I just shorted it out.
As I'm from the UK I'm used to making sure the car is in neutral and clutch depressed before starting.
Haven't driven a UK car which has had an 'idiot' switch on the clutch pedal.
Might get around to replacing the switch one day if I ever come to sell.
As I'm from the UK I'm used to making sure the car is in neutral and clutch depressed before starting.
Haven't driven a UK car which has had an 'idiot' switch on the clutch pedal.
Might get around to replacing the switch one day if I ever come to sell.
#26
07-20-2009, 03:52 PM
I'll be calling the dealer today and also call Audi to find out the price for the switch.
Any help would be appreciated.
#28
07-20-2009, 04:00 PM
Yup! I've noticed the problem last week when I went for a spin, hard to removed the keys and had to turn the key fully counterclock wise to get it out. I've wiggle it so many times and also moved the steering just to make sure. While driving, my headlights won't even turn on.
edited*
Just called my local dealer. They don't sell the switch itself but the whole housing. $188.51 part number 996 347 271 07. Mine is an 01 model.
edited*
Just called my local dealer. They don't sell the switch itself but the whole housing. $188.51 part number 996 347 271 07. Mine is an 01 model.
Last edited by Wanhand; 07-20-2009 at 04:19 PM.
#29
07-20-2009, 04:21 PM
Off I go to Audi now...
Last edited by Wanhand; 07-20-2009 at 04:35 PM.
#30
07-20-2009, 08:26 PM
It's me again to report on my ignition issue. I would like to thank my fellow 6speeders for helping out. The link to another site was also very helpful (http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=493) I was able to fix my problem, what relief.
I went to my local Audi dealer to pick up the part.
Gathered all the required tools to do the job. You only need four items, small flashlight, two flat screwdriver (a short wan and a really short wan) and a beer.
I removed the air duct under the steering column. If you're looking up the steering column, you need to pull the middle air duct to the right to get it loose then you do the other side by pulling it to the left.
Once the air duct is removed, you'll be able to see the switch assembly. I did not take a picture of the switch attached to the housing (I can't seem to focus my camera from below) Here's a picture of the housing right after I removed the switch. You need to scrape the red paint off the 2 screw to loosen them up. It's just a paint and not Loctite. (NOTE: You really need your 5 yr old son to fit your hand up there but it's doable.)
Here's a picture of the wiring assemble (pink module w/assorted wires attached to it) after I pryed the switch off the socket.
Here's a picture of the switch. I opened it and looked inside to see what's wrong with it. I found out that the black housing was all chewed inside from wear and tear. And the 2 pin spring loaded part was also weak.
Just put every thing back in reverse order and you should be fine. Follow the instruction from the link above (Renntech) It should take you 1 hour to do it. It took me an hour and half with wanhand.
I went to my local Audi dealer to pick up the part.
Gathered all the required tools to do the job. You only need four items, small flashlight, two flat screwdriver (a short wan and a really short wan) and a beer.
I removed the air duct under the steering column. If you're looking up the steering column, you need to pull the middle air duct to the right to get it loose then you do the other side by pulling it to the left.
Once the air duct is removed, you'll be able to see the switch assembly. I did not take a picture of the switch attached to the housing (I can't seem to focus my camera from below) Here's a picture of the housing right after I removed the switch. You need to scrape the red paint off the 2 screw to loosen them up. It's just a paint and not Loctite. (NOTE: You really need your 5 yr old son to fit your hand up there but it's doable.)
Here's a picture of the wiring assemble (pink module w/assorted wires attached to it) after I pryed the switch off the socket.
Here's a picture of the switch. I opened it and looked inside to see what's wrong with it. I found out that the black housing was all chewed inside from wear and tear. And the 2 pin spring loaded part was also weak.
Just put every thing back in reverse order and you should be fine. Follow the instruction from the link above (Renntech) It should take you 1 hour to do it. It took me an hour and half with wanhand.