Bumper respray - to blend or not to blend?
#1
Bumper respray - to blend or not to blend?
I just picked up my 2002 996TT on Wednesday, and for reasons I cannot fathom, I failed to notice until I removed the front tag this morning that the paint behind the front plate mount badly cracked where the PO probably tapped something.
I'm thinking I'll either try to find another arctic silver bumper cover, or have the thing painted, as there are other scratches.
For those that have had their cover resprayed or installed a new GT2 or aftermarket bumper, did you just have the part painted on its own, or did you have the paint blended into the hood and fenders?
I'd rather do the former to keep the cost down, but I've heard silver can show mismatches much more dramatically than say, black does.
-chris
I'm thinking I'll either try to find another arctic silver bumper cover, or have the thing painted, as there are other scratches.
For those that have had their cover resprayed or installed a new GT2 or aftermarket bumper, did you just have the part painted on its own, or did you have the paint blended into the hood and fenders?
I'd rather do the former to keep the cost down, but I've heard silver can show mismatches much more dramatically than say, black does.
-chris
#2
If you paint isn't faded, body shops will use the paint code to spray the bumper and you won't be able to tell. I had my rear bumper sprayed to clean up rock chips and you can't see the difference. If you do the hood then you may as well do both fenders and if you do the fenders you may as well do the doors...
#3
Spray the entire skin, in my opinion, that way the integral skin of paint will all age the same over time. If you feather in areas, there's a better chance of the re sprayed area being really obvious as the surrounding paint eventually degrades; then you're back to having to coat the entire part. Just my $.02 after having learned the hard way....
#4
I just did the same thing...My front bump (arctic silver) needed repaint. I had it pulled off and painted alone...no feather. I think the match is perfect and have a hard time seeing a difference. Find a person who will take their time and match because it can be done. When you feather, especially with metallics, you can often get some funky appearances in the sunlight.
#5
Never paint any metal on a car unless it is damaged. Painted bumpers are no big deal, but once you paint the hood and fenders, ANY dealer worth anything will assume that there was a front end impact, and your car's value will get slammed.
#6
Well put
#7
Spray the entire skin, in my opinion, that way the integral skin of paint will all age the same over time. If you feather in areas, there's a better chance of the re sprayed area being really obvious as the surrounding paint eventually degrades; then you're back to having to coat the entire part. Just my $.02 after having learned the hard way....
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#8
First, no decent body shop would only paint part of the bumper! They should clear coat the whole thing all the way to the 'edges'...same concept applies to any body panel.
Second, depends where the damage is- they will prep the whole bumper, figure on what needs sanding, repair and color coat. If the area to be colored is away from the edges, they can just spot color those, blend into the areas of the bumper that are 'clean', then clear the whol thing.
Same applies to any body panel- it is the position of the damage and how much color is needed (and how much area they have to blend that color down to the edge of the panel) as to what areas need paint. For example, damage to a door back by the handle can be crazy becuase blending needs to go to the fender, air duct, rear window gets roped, quarter comes out, bumper off, etc, etc. To do it right.
A
Second, depends where the damage is- they will prep the whole bumper, figure on what needs sanding, repair and color coat. If the area to be colored is away from the edges, they can just spot color those, blend into the areas of the bumper that are 'clean', then clear the whol thing.
Same applies to any body panel- it is the position of the damage and how much color is needed (and how much area they have to blend that color down to the edge of the panel) as to what areas need paint. For example, damage to a door back by the handle can be crazy becuase blending needs to go to the fender, air duct, rear window gets roped, quarter comes out, bumper off, etc, etc. To do it right.
A
#9
Be careful as Porsche has two different arctic silver colors with nearly identical paint codes. I see cars with both on them all the time, especially aftermarket parts. They are quite easily distinguishable, especially on the same car from one panel to the next.
#10
Yes, that is true...my paint guy had to switch after a non match...but when done it is undectable...yours should be too and no need to paint metal. Also, make sure you go to someone who will remove the bumper...comes out much more finsished.
#12
To follow up on this (and I'm sure it varies from region to region), how much have people paid to have their bumper removed and resprayed?
I'm guessing off the top of my head around $200-400 based on other paint work I've had done on my (wife's) car(s) in the last couple of years.
I'm guessing off the top of my head around $200-400 based on other paint work I've had done on my (wife's) car(s) in the last couple of years.
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