I have just replaced my Stock Diverter Valves Part Number: 0 280 142 108 and my stock "F" Hose on my Turbo "S". For the record being almost 5 years old there was absolutely nothing wrong with them, it was a recommended change by my tuner (Flash Privider). Pressure testing also resulted in no failures.

I went with and Agency Power Blue Silicone "F" Hose and Forge Diverter Valves with a 90 Degree Vacuum Port (See Pic) and 23 - 30 psi Blue Springs.

First I must say 2 things:

1) Whoever says this is an easy installation is either a Vendor trying to sell you some valves, or someone who does not have the same stock clamps as I had on my Turbo S in the orientation that they were installed, or should I say the removal of the old units is what was a pain, the Install was quite straight forward. It was obvious on my car that these valves were installed prior to the engine installation.

2) No matter how hard I looked ther are no exact replacements for the stock units from a size perspective. All of the after market units are quite a bit larger, definately go for the side port units if you do this mod.

Valve Removal

Refer to one of the published instruction sets such as the one from AWE. It will give you the basic info. What follows is what they conveniently OMIT to tell you. Here is a link to the AWE Instructions.

http://www.awe-tuning.com/media/pdf/...twin_turbo.pdf

1) You MUST have a good pair of hose clamp pliers to remove the stock clamps. You can do it with regular pliers but it will not be easy at all. The ones I used are below. (See Pic)

2) Follow the AWE instructions down to Step 9, the part where it says:


3) Now you need the pliers again and pull back the clip on the F Hose so it does not clamp to the Y Pipe. The hose will now move easily back and forth on the Y Pipe.

4) The next step in the guide, at least for my Turbo S and 4 others I looked at is completely bogus. There are no screw clamps on the stock diverter valves, they are all factory clips and some are facing the front of the engine not the rear to make matters worse.

These are VERY difficult to get at and watch your knuckes, they will get grazed. If you think removing the clips from the rear DV is tough, this is just the start. The rear one will eventually come out after a lot of wiggling, the bottom rubber hose is very flexible and allows you manipulate it so you can remove the Rear DV.

5) Once the rear valve is removed the even more tricky bit starts. You have to first remove the F hose from the Front Valve. To do this you need to remove the clamp holding the hose to the Front Valve. You CANNOT use your pliers as they do not fit in, (Unless the clip flanges were facing the rear, but ours was not) Remember on the 4 Turbo S cars I looked at they were all facing the front too.

I used a small "C" Clamp and positioned it round the flanges of the stock clamp and tightened it until it loosened a the OEM clamp little. (I actually did thes 3 times as it kept falling off) In this case 4th time lucky and I was able to forcefully remove the F hose from the front valve. You can now pull the F hose off.

6) OK now comes the lower OEM clamp, also with flanges facing the front of the car. I uses a very small pair of hobby pliers with hooked teeth and positioned them in ront of the valve (to the front of the car) I then slightly closed the pliers and forced the DV out of the lower hose. I cannot remember the amount of times they slipped of. there was a lot of swearing in my garage at the time but eventually I got it off. Now go get a beer or something stronger. If you do not drink I feel sorry for you.

7) The assembly of the new valves with the exception of the vacuum hose to DV installation is pretty much the same as the AWE Guide. REMEMBER to use screw clamps this time. I replaced all the OEM clamps with screw clamps except the one that connects the F hose to the Y Pipe.

8) I kept the OEM vacuum hoses and replace them with custom cut hoses I had as the OEM hoses have bends in them that is not really convenient to re-install.

REMEMBER to use small cable iies on EVERY joint in the vacuum hose re-installation.

Well finally it is all back together. I still think it was not really necessary as the OEM DVs and hose were perfect, I tested them on the bench and they help vacuum till I turned it off (about 15 mins)

I hope this helps those considering the installation. It took me about 3 hours to do, end to end, including cleaning up parts and such.

SWR

 

This is a must for these types of clamps:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...criptionAnchor

 

link no worky

 

fantastic info. thank you.

 

Let me see a picture of that sweet F Hose

 

I also had the pleasure of changing my DVs not too long ago. I don't have a pair of actual hose clamp pliers, but do have a set of large needle nose pliers with a 90 degree bend at the tips. These will work also. Similar pliers can be picked up at Harbor Freight for about $10.

My OEM clamps were also positioned towards the front of the car. What I did to reposition them so I could actually get some pliers on them was this. I simply used about a 2 foot piece of 3/16" nylon cord. Tie a square knot in the ends so you wind up with a loop that's about 10" long. Now loop the cord around one or both of the tangs on the clamp such that when you pull on the cord, it works to take the pressure off the clamp, just like pliers would. You'll loop the cord on either the center tang only, or the two outside tangs, depending on the orientation on your car. When you pull on the cord (and you'll have to put some pretty good pull on it), it should take enough pressure off the clamp so that the clamp will actually rotate around. If you do this a few times, you should be able to work the clamp around to an orientation where you can get pliers on it. One word of caution however. Make sure you use some pretty thick cord, similar to cloths line or thicker. If you use something that is too small in diameter, if you pull hard enough you will actually force the cord "under" the opposing side of the clamp and cause a lot of frustration as you try to figure out how to get it unstuck. I first tried this method with some thick safety wire and some safety wire pliers, and I wound up getting the safety wire "stuck" under the center tang of the hose clamp as I tightened it up.

A frustrating job, . . . yes. Doable with some patience, . . . most certainly!

Bill

 

This read like my DV experience! It is not a difficult job as in skill level, but is very frustrating and takes more time than it should... Someone should make an "F" hose that relocates the DVs to a more accessible place...

Oh, Dan, I can send you a picture of my hose if you want! :-P

 

If you are going to replace the F hose anyway wouldn't it be easier just to cut the old F hose out with a knife?

 

Has anyone ever used the remote cable operated clamp/pliers for ones you can't easily reach? Seems its a tool made for band clamp location problems exactly like this.

 

Here are two pictures of my DV encounter.

 

Getting the OEM F Hose off is not the REALLY hard part. It is getting the OEM Valves off the lower hose that is the real problem.

 

I decided to replace both valves tonight and followed someone elses advise and dropped the engine down a few inches. Very easy: two 18 mm bolts a good jack and a 2 X 10 board. Then you can access the DVs and F pipe much easier.
Here is a link

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...tt-engine.html

I was a bit scared but trust me, if you pay attention to detail and take your time, this makes servicing your upper engine and DVs much easier. While I was in there I tightened up all the screw type hose clamps I could see.

 

I just spent about 8 hours changing mine. There is no room to work whatsoever. Hardest part by far was hose clamp on front diverter. Tabs are facing forward so almost impossible to squeeze. I tried everything until at last I got a screw type hose clamp on the tabs and tightened it enough to loosen clamp on diverter valve hose.

 

Just replaced my diverter valves and have some input into this job. I read this thread and the AWE instructions repeatedly. If you are going to do this job do not waste 8 hours scrapping your knuckles and getting all bent out of shape with how tight is in there.

Trust me: follow the instructions on lowering the engine a few inches, follow the AWE instructions (except your car will not have hose clamps) and buy a pair of wire-type hose clamps. Took me 1.5 hours, no scrapes, no cursing. Was VERY easy.

 

I have to agree that dropping the engine a few inches makes swapping the DVs and F-pipe MUCH, MUCH easier. I'm also a big fan of the cable-type hose clamp pliers (LINK HERE:
Astro Pneumatic 9409A Hose Clamp Pliers by Astro Pneumatic
Permalink: http://amzn.com/B003D3N7YW
Yes, you might get some other pliers to work, but these will make it SIMPLE. That is worth $32 if you ask me.
This is not that hard of a project if you have the right tools and some patience.