Nothing wrong with those Tarreds, But I'd buy the rears before the fronts and buy the lockout plates. The adjusters are known to slip under heavy cornering.

You can use whatever brand of droplink that has a monoball and is adjustable, along with whatever swaybar you prefer... I am using the following:

H/R sway bars (came on the car so I don't have an attachment to them)
Tarred Rear drop links (I bought these)
TRG front drop links (I bought these)
PSS9s with custom valving (They came on the car, see swaybar comment above)
GT3 Control arms up front (and soon in the rear)

I set my pss9s up with the following:
3 click from full hard up front
1click from full hard in the rear
Swaybars are set to full soft upfront and mid stiff in rear

Alignment is as follows:
front camber -1.5
front Caster +8.0
Rear Camber -1.9

I won't even go into my toe setting because my car is described as "nervous (which is the way I like it!) But my car tracks straight and smooth, and at 180mph it is drama free to drive.

When the car goes back on track in the spring we'll be running the following:

front camber -2.9
front Caster +8.0
Rear Camber -2.5

the ride height is on the low end of GT2 range, which I like very much. I'll be installing a few more bits to nail it down, but with the above specs and the right tires, I think I can crack a 2:05 at VIR and a 1:18 at Summit Main, maybe quicker as the season draws on!

Mike

 

After looking to buy one of these cars, it amazes that the suspension set-up from the factory is crap. Once I get my car, I already own a number of new suspension kits for this car (including a completely new Moton set-up), and will probably go with a JRZ set-up, both front and rear sway bars, links, and not too stiff Eibach springs. About 50/50 street/track use. But don't listen to me, there are much better informed members on this thread about the GT2

 

If you go with an adjustable coil over assy, it is possible to lower it too much. On a std 996TT, if lowered to GT2 ride height even with proper allignment, sways, links etc. there can be some instability at speed due to inadequate over-all shock travel (ie sitting on the bump stops) Some coil over assy have a shorter shock body for additional travel which is advantageous.

 

Yup, Porschetech, it really depends on the setup used. I wouldn't go as low as my car is setup with standard off the shelf PSS9s, but these aren't. I also would have gone a different route had the car been bone stock (Like Motons or JRZs or OHLINS).

However, I've had a number of guys in my car, and I've got a bunch of footage up on youtube of the car... My car tracks flat, is N-O-T on the bumpstops, and is very confidence inspiring. I also have a GREAT corner balance and alignment, along with a GREAT tech who understands how to setup suspensions properly. I think the biggest problem with the 996TT is the suspension pickup points. We may move to Cup Car uprights/hubs before spring. Not sure yet. But I believe the biggest advantage you can get in a 996 is correcting the geometry by moving the pickup points...

What amazes me is how crappy the OEM suspension adjustment cams are. GT3 owners complain all the time about them slipping and coming out of adjustment, especially when coupled with soft tires and improved driving!

All good comments!
Mike

 

Totally agree. It sounds like you have a pretty good set-up now. A reasonable ride height coupled with a solid alignment and cornerbalance is key.
The oem eccentric cams are not very good. Also, their range of toe and camber are pretty limited. We have a horrible time trying to align some cars that come in with drop in springs like H&R's (we don't usually recomend them fwiw). Had a 997S in the other day that had H&R springs and sitting in the weeds. Even at full positive camber and toe out in the rear, the toe was JUST barely within specification and camber was still pretty poor.

 

RSS Adjustable Toe Steer Kit and RSS Adjustable Rear Link Kit really necessary after lowering your car??

 

No, not necessary. A good mechanic can adjust the eccentric in the stock setup if you are just lowering the car even though it's a PITB for them. You can easily do without them, but they definitely help, moreso for track work than street.

You can still get even tire wear, and corner fine.

 

some people told me that even after putting in coilovers, they didn't need to get the alignment done. true?

 

Absolutely FALSE!!!!!!!!!

Not only do you need a alignment, you need a corner balance. Who knows what ride height the coilovers came with?

There might be a .01% chance the coilovers come with the right height and your alignment comes out unscathed but you'll waste more money than that when your tires are corded after 800 miles because of bad toe or camber.

 

that's what i thought, thanks.

 

Everyone will agree with Heavy Chevy. You will need an alignment at a minimum. Corner balancing would also be a plus. Sway bars are a must with adjustable drop links. The factory links have a habit of causing preload and breaking. I suggested adjustable rear control arms and adjustable rear toe steer link from the experience of just doing the PSS 10's and ending up with -2.5 rear camber and too much toe for the street which the stock eccentrics could not correct. I'm also am running 19x11.5r with much more offset than stock and 315's. This in combination may have also contributed to cording the inside edges in about 4K.

As an aside, I just had headers and an exhaust system installed. Thanks to John at Speedtech for an nice exhaust at a reasonable price and Jae at Mirage in SD for the install. I can now hold a full bar (with a 50/50 mix of 91/100 octane). Will post pics and a sound clip soon.

 

quick question for Mike, HC and all you knowledgeable ones.

I am getting sway bars and tarett adjustable drop links. I was told that the GMG thrust arm bushing kit is a good idea as is the Dogbones for the rear, GMG also. With my pss10's is this sufficient for several track days a year (under 10) and considerable spirited mountain driving.

My next question is, if I change tires, how does this affect balance and alignment if the tires are different brands and the wheels are different widths.

last question, where is the best place to get a good deal on the GMG stuff.

 

Any time you're changing out major components like coilovers, or breaking loose balljoints and removing end links or control arms, you must re-align the car. And because I know the way I like to drive my car, I'd get a corner balance done as well...

Dennis, the GMG thrust bushings really help dial OUT the added caster that increases when adding negative camber. There's not much adjustment in the upper mount of the coil over setup to allow for dialing out the positive caster gain.

Mike

 

Mike, thanks. Definitely getting them. I am sure you don't change wheels and tires much, but what do you think about changeouts, will it have an adverse effect on handling and setup if I go from say PS2's to another brand, with same wheel diameter, but different offset wheels and different overal diameter?

 

Jumping into the thread a little late...

The alignment setup that Mike Kelly described for his "next spring" adventures is exactly what I have been running this year. The car just rolls through the corners flat and firm. I got nine, yes nine, track days from a set of Michelin PSC's, and I would have gotten another two more if my boost hoses hadn't come loose and coil packs went south. The tire wear is even all the way acrossthe tread face. When I first got this car, I got 3, max 4, days out of a set of tires because of excessive shoulder wear. And I am a lot faster now, too.

Sway bars are the best first mod, then something to let you get sufficient negative camber. I have GT3 lower arms in front, and AP adjustable upper dog bones in the rear. This allows me to fairly easily go from street to track settings in my garage. If you do this, you really should invest in some alignment tools. I have the Smart Camber and Longacre toe kits. It really isn't that hard to do.

Jon