Where to begin on suspension?
#1
Where to begin on suspension?
I'm trying to save up a bit of money for when I return from overseas to work on the car and figured the suspension is the next thing I'll be looking at to work on.
Right now, the suspension is completely stock. This car is going to be my weekend warrior with very limited track use. When I say limited, maybe 2-3 times a year. The rest of the time, I'll just drive on a nice drive every now and then.
As I won't be visiting the track all to much, are sway bars overkill? I wanted to drop the height of the car a little bit so I figured coil-overs were the way to go.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Right now, the suspension is completely stock. This car is going to be my weekend warrior with very limited track use. When I say limited, maybe 2-3 times a year. The rest of the time, I'll just drive on a nice drive every now and then.
As I won't be visiting the track all to much, are sway bars overkill? I wanted to drop the height of the car a little bit so I figured coil-overs were the way to go.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
#3
Sway bars complement everything you will be doing, drop links will be a must if you want a good suspension. depending on your budget, i am sure i can lead you a few ways as i have already tried a whole bunch. good luck.
#4
I understand drop links are used so i can adjust my camber so my tires don't wear out unevenly. Is that right?
I want a good suspension, but my budget isn't the greatest. I just want to be planted to the ground, with a slight drop.
I want a good suspension, but my budget isn't the greatest. I just want to be planted to the ground, with a slight drop.
#5
Adjustable drop links allow you to adjust your sway bars to proper position. They do not adjust camber. The stock US 996T suffers from a multitute of compromises made by the factory and US bumper height laws. The ride height is too high and the suspension too soft. I would suggest the following for a street driven car with mininmal track time:
Bilstein PPS 10 coil overs, these allow you to adjust ride height, stiffness and allow you to corner balance the car.
Adjustable sway bars with adjustable drop links. This allows you to adjust for under/oversteer.
Adjustable upper rear control arms. This will allow you to adjust the camber beyond the limitations of the factory excentrics and eliminate the soft bushings that cause unwanted suspension geometry changes under hard cornering
Adjustable rear toe steer link. The factory excentric does not allow for proper toe adjustment on a lowered car.
These are the basics that are suggested without significant compromises as a daily driver. (All in this will cost you about $5k installed with alignment and corner balancing.) As an alternative you could get a factory ROW sport spring and shock set that would lower the car to the point of not needing other components to correct for camber and toe issues. You could also consider the factory X73 springs and shocks. However you might spent almost as much as factory parts are expensive and the labor only about 2-3 hours less.
Bilstein PPS 10 coil overs, these allow you to adjust ride height, stiffness and allow you to corner balance the car.
Adjustable sway bars with adjustable drop links. This allows you to adjust for under/oversteer.
Adjustable upper rear control arms. This will allow you to adjust the camber beyond the limitations of the factory excentrics and eliminate the soft bushings that cause unwanted suspension geometry changes under hard cornering
Adjustable rear toe steer link. The factory excentric does not allow for proper toe adjustment on a lowered car.
These are the basics that are suggested without significant compromises as a daily driver. (All in this will cost you about $5k installed with alignment and corner balancing.) As an alternative you could get a factory ROW sport spring and shock set that would lower the car to the point of not needing other components to correct for camber and toe issues. You could also consider the factory X73 springs and shocks. However you might spent almost as much as factory parts are expensive and the labor only about 2-3 hours less.
Last edited by Duane996tt; 09-06-2009 at 03:01 AM.
#7
I've decided to just go with the H&R setup. I think I'll be most happy with this setup.
Now I've noticed there is the RSS setup and the standard coilover system.
If I'm only going to be driving this car during the weekends, would RSS be overkill?
Now I've noticed there is the RSS setup and the standard coilover system.
If I'm only going to be driving this car during the weekends, would RSS be overkill?
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#8
Overkill, no. Unnecessary, yes.
For the street, get some PSS10's, maybe even PSS9 depending on how far you plan to drop the car. If you like mountain drives or drive aggressively, then MAYBE a rear sway. Front sway not needed at all. And anything else is really overkill for any handling you'll be doing on the street. The rear sway will come in handy on the track for sure.
For a weekend ride, you should really be good with a set of PSS9/10.
For the street, get some PSS10's, maybe even PSS9 depending on how far you plan to drop the car. If you like mountain drives or drive aggressively, then MAYBE a rear sway. Front sway not needed at all. And anything else is really overkill for any handling you'll be doing on the street. The rear sway will come in handy on the track for sure.
For a weekend ride, you should really be good with a set of PSS9/10.
#9
Why would you think its unnessary? I mean, while I won't be hitting the track very often, this car will see the road at least once a week and will be carving some mountains.
I mean, is the ride going to be a lot more harsh than the standard coilovers?
I've decided to stick with the H&R instead of the PSS9's.
I mean, is the ride going to be a lot more harsh than the standard coilovers?
I've decided to stick with the H&R instead of the PSS9's.
#10
Why would you think its unnessary? I mean, while I won't be hitting the track very often, this car will see the road at least once a week and will be carving some mountains.
I mean, is the ride going to be a lot more harsh than the standard coilovers?
I've decided to stick with the H&R instead of the PSS9's.
I mean, is the ride going to be a lot more harsh than the standard coilovers?
I've decided to stick with the H&R instead of the PSS9's.
I just meant you don't NEED to have them. Not that they are bad for you. As opposed to overkill. There are guys with Motons that never track their cars. Motons fit in the category of unnecessary for the street as well, but it sure won't hurt to have some. Overkill IMO is something that will worsen the street ride like racing shocks, racing clutch or straight cut gears and won't be used on the track.
#12
Any rec. for the front upgrade? My height is 1/2"above gt2. I feel not stable at med-high speed. It likes floating a bit. At low-med speed it feel pretty quick to pull to right also. Car run straight though.
Adjustable drop links allow you to adjust your sway bars to proper position. They do not adjust camber. The stock US 996T suffers from a multitute of compromises made by the factory and US bumper height laws. The ride height is too high and the suspension too soft. I would suggest the following for a street driven car with mininmal track time:
Bilstein PPS 10 coil overs, these allow you to adjust ride height, stiffness and allow you to corner balance the car.
Adjustable sway bars with adjustable drop links. This allows you to adjust for under/oversteer.
Adjustable upper rear control arms. This will allow you to adjust the camber beyond the limitations of the factory excentrics and eliminate the soft bushings that cause unwanted suspension geometry changes under hard cornering
Adjustable rear toe steer link. The factory excentric does not allow for proper toe adjustment on a lowered car.
These are the basics that are suggested without significant compromises as a daily driver. (All in this will cost you about $5k installed with alignment and corner balancing.) As an alternative you could get a factory ROW sport spring and shock set that would lower the car to the point of not needing other components to correct for camber and toe issues. You could also consider the factory X73 springs and shocks. However you might spent almost as much as factory parts are expensive and the labor only about 2-3 hours less.
Bilstein PPS 10 coil overs, these allow you to adjust ride height, stiffness and allow you to corner balance the car.
Adjustable sway bars with adjustable drop links. This allows you to adjust for under/oversteer.
Adjustable upper rear control arms. This will allow you to adjust the camber beyond the limitations of the factory excentrics and eliminate the soft bushings that cause unwanted suspension geometry changes under hard cornering
Adjustable rear toe steer link. The factory excentric does not allow for proper toe adjustment on a lowered car.
These are the basics that are suggested without significant compromises as a daily driver. (All in this will cost you about $5k installed with alignment and corner balancing.) As an alternative you could get a factory ROW sport spring and shock set that would lower the car to the point of not needing other components to correct for camber and toe issues. You could also consider the factory X73 springs and shocks. However you might spent almost as much as factory parts are expensive and the labor only about 2-3 hours less.
#13
In all honesty, You don't need a lot... If you're planning to do a few track days per year, and you're not overly upset with the ride height, I'd add some adjustable sway bars and drop links for sure. The OEM stock drop links are J-U-N-K and should never have been put on the 996TT.
PSS9s/10s are fine for most dual duty, but I'm not even sure you need them if you're just doing a couple events per year. Sway bars will help some with bodyroll. I'd absolutley do swaybars/endlinks over Just coil overs. So do both or just do swaybars... To me, the added strenght of the adjustable endlinks is so much more worth it for the added strength over the stockers...
Mike
PSS9s/10s are fine for most dual duty, but I'm not even sure you need them if you're just doing a couple events per year. Sway bars will help some with bodyroll. I'd absolutley do swaybars/endlinks over Just coil overs. So do both or just do swaybars... To me, the added strenght of the adjustable endlinks is so much more worth it for the added strength over the stockers...
Mike
#15
Mike,
I plan to put this in? Is it good? If you could help, thanks.
http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...bmp-detail.htm
ps. I have pss9 adj at 4. But my car feels float at high speed and feel very quick to shoot to right at med speed, specialy with some bump.
I plan to put this in? Is it good? If you could help, thanks.
http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...bmp-detail.htm
ps. I have pss9 adj at 4. But my car feels float at high speed and feel very quick to shoot to right at med speed, specialy with some bump.