protomotive did not build the motorporsche here in gr built it... however protomotive did provide us the the arp headstuds and the instructions on how to torque... they did not provide us with any information that we had to re-tourque the studs which would have changed my decision to purchase the studs

 

He must have been from Michigan State LOL
Go blue
Robert

 

Tim hope it goes smooth for you Bro!! I dont know what i can do for you here but if you need something ask away!

Enjoy the weather this weekend, you will be busy soon enough.

 

Sorry to read about this and having gone through this very same issue myself on my own 996TT's back in the day I guess now is as good a time as any to introduce these then:
http://www.sharkwerks.com/products.php?pid=251

When Todd@EVO showed me many months ago what they'd been working on I had to make _sure_ that we supported the motion and hence we have many sets in stock and use these even in upcoming 997GT3 motor builds. Just tired to of the nonsense with the ARP head studs which were only ever intended to work on the 993-side anyways...

 

thanks man!! and thanks to markski and dominick at autoworks those guys know there stuff

 

thanks alex ill be calling shortly... what would u recomend for a head gasket??

 

keep us posted on the progress Tim, GL.

 

will do Art.... just got off the phone with alex at sharkworks looks like im going the evoms route they have a proven solution
tim
Thanks ALEX for your time!!

 

I'm sure it will be a great one GL

 

I think you have to take a good look at the factory system first before you make changes with hardware. The factory stud may yield/stretch more during assembly than the ARP one. If this is the case it doesn't relax as much after a heat cycle and has a better chance at holding the head down. You can't really say "ARP sucks" without really understanding whats going wrong. The next problem is ARP gives a torque value that the fastener starts to yield at and thats that... going in a small block chevy or a 997 a 7/16 or 11mm fastener gets a similar value. The block/cylinder/head is a whole lot more dynamic on the 997 so you can see where that may start to offer issues. If it was as simple( and maybe it is...) as going to a 12mm fastener life would be great.. But that 12mm fastener is going to take more torque to yield than the 11mm and that could cause more stress/distortion of the assembly, remember it's a system. Or the 12mm relaxes back to some yield that will hold the heads down without re torque? Were the studs installed to ARP's spec? or was someone "giving it a little extra"?

One thing I have done on engines that are a pain in the *** to retorque is heat cycle them on the engine stand. This can be done with a water heater and water pump. All fasteners/engines change after a heat cycle. For those of you that have gone rounds with copper gaskets it's all to present of an issue. I believe "they" said 30% of the stretch was lost in the first heat cycle.

Sorry to hear of your problems.

 

hey it will run soon again.. dont worry.... just imagine the smile you have when you get on it....

Ironically , I have stock head studs and stock gaskets.... and my car is 900+ rwhp.... things that make you go hhhmm....

 

Pleasure and just keep your chin up as they say I've been there too myself... twice

 

Mark, I know of one car with 1000rwhp 996tt with OEM head studs, no O-ringed heads and no gaskets. I think the whole thing is in the procedure of re-torquing it properly. We've torqued the heads on mine three times on different days and plan to do it after a nice break in too. There is always going to be some loose end somewhere though

 

The only "loose end" you better have, is the back of your car on your maiden voyage!!!

 

How many turbo motors had this gentleman built that were of your power/boost levels or higher ?

(My point is that there is so much more to building the motor correctly than following someone elses instructions)

I wish you the best on this frustrating problem but your "blame" is misdirected.