Dual Imput (Snorkel) Airbox for Stock Dry Filter (Comments)
#46
11-17-2009, 05:17 AM
Sort of off topic, but I just spent a bunch of time on the dyno chasing other problems and took the opportunity to try different filters. I dyno'd my stock paper filter (which I run all the time in my stock air box and piping), a K&N and NO filter. I was careful to make sure all pulls started at 185deg or so, to try to keep it somewhat consistant. At my power level (600whp ish) there was a 2-8hp difference over the length of the curve with "no filter" having the advantage on spool. My car doesn't make that much more power with a K&N than it does with the stock paper filter and I attribute that to the unbelievable surface area of that filter. The paper filters WAAYYY better than the K&N and I will stick to paper.
mike, awesome info, does anyone want my KN filter?
#47
11-17-2009, 07:23 AM
a fiber infused ABS injection mould for the air box would cost somewhere in the vicinity of $60k depending on quality. Not to mention the design, CNC, testing, etc. Then each run will be 10k pcs before anyone will tool up their machines. They will have to sell a whole lot of air boxes to recover that investment.
High quality CF is expensive because the raw material and the process (laying, pressurized baking, curing, etc.). But much smaller initial investment as they have to make one at a time. Fiber glass on the other hand do not need the baking and curing. Just let the epoxy cure and your done.
If you don't like the CF look, go buy a can of spray plsti-dip and spray it. You'll have a rubberized look much closer to the factory look.
If you use regular "plastic", it will warp from the engine heat in no time.
High quality CF is expensive because the raw material and the process (laying, pressurized baking, curing, etc.). But much smaller initial investment as they have to make one at a time. Fiber glass on the other hand do not need the baking and curing. Just let the epoxy cure and your done.
If you don't like the CF look, go buy a can of spray plsti-dip and spray it. You'll have a rubberized look much closer to the factory look.
If you use regular "plastic", it will warp from the engine heat in no time.
That is an excellent response. Thanks for all the info about the injection molding, I really had no idea it was that expensive.
Since I have full access to making my own CF, I guess I just might have to make one out of CF then and do it in the darker weaves so it looks black. I only need an example to make the mold... anyone have an extra? I promise to cut you deals down the road on some of the other goodies that will be rolling out.
#48
11-17-2009, 08:22 AM
Funny. I've had one on my bench for a year now collecting dust...was supposed to give it to Todd at the Mile and forgot until I got home and found it in the trailer....
#49
11-17-2009, 09:10 AM
to bad you didn't have a BMC. I have heard that one is best, but it can't be better than no filter, so is the difference in price worth 1-3 hp at best....
#50
11-17-2009, 09:11 AM
#52
11-17-2009, 09:24 AM
Air Filter? I've only had my car for about 10k miles and it didn't need it then and it doesn't need it now, so I don't know? I clean it everytime I have my airbox out. I may stick one in in the spring just because.
#53
11-17-2009, 09:35 AM
Sort of off topic, but I just spent a bunch of time on the dyno chasing other problems and took the opportunity to try different filters. I dyno'd my stock paper filter (which I run all the time in my stock air box and piping), a K&N and NO filter. I was careful to make sure all pulls started at 185deg or so, to try to keep it somewhat consistant. At my power level (600whp ish) there was a 2-8hp difference over the length of the curve with "no filter" having the advantage on spool. My car doesn't make that much more power with a K&N than it does with the stock paper filter and I attribute that to the unbelievable surface area of that filter. The paper filters WAAYYY better than the K&N and I will stick to paper.
#54
11-17-2009, 09:44 AM
#55
11-17-2009, 09:47 AM
You guys fail to recognize the air intake is/can be environmentally impacted...so us with high altitude will take all the air we can get...
#56
11-17-2009, 09:51 AM
Sort of off topic, but I just spent a bunch of time on the dyno chasing other problems and took the opportunity to try different filters. I dyno'd my stock paper filter (which I run all the time in my stock air box and piping), a K&N and NO filter. I was careful to make sure all pulls started at 185deg or so, to try to keep it somewhat consistant. At my power level (600whp ish) there was a 2-8hp difference over the length of the curve with "no filter" having the advantage on spool. My car doesn't make that much more power with a K&N than it does with the stock paper filter and I attribute that to the unbelievable surface area of that filter. The paper filters WAAYYY better than the K&N and I will stick to paper.
#57
11-17-2009, 09:53 AM
It is good you were able to do this test (certainly some data is better than none), but I would like to remind members this is a sample size of n=1 and the results can be applied only to ttboost's car under identical environmental conditions and identical measurement error. To imply this is true for all is a statistical fallacy we refer to as PREMATURE GENERALIZATION...enough lessons for today....
#58
11-17-2009, 03:02 PM
It is good you were able to do this test (certainly some data is better than none), but I would like to remind members this is a sample size of n=1 and the results can be applied only to ttboost's car under identical environmental conditions and identical measurement error. To imply this is true for all is a statistical fallacy we refer to as PREMATURE EJACULA...enough lessons for today....
exactly
#59
11-17-2009, 08:53 PM
If you want a cheaper alternative, yes we/Agency Power can make it out of fiberglass and paint it matte black to match the OEM plastic piece. Retail on the carbon box is $675 and I do them for 6speed guys at $540. Our carbon intake still sells very well. As John said way back when, we can also cover the right side snorkel in carbon to match if interested. There was a 6speeder we did it for but never got pics. The Fiberglass unit would still be costly cause of the paint process. I am sure you dont want rattle can even though nobody "shows off" their engine LOL.
If people want the cheaper alternative, will do a Group Buy at $350 shipped for 10 or more. Someone start it...
If people want the cheaper alternative, will do a Group Buy at $350 shipped for 10 or more. Someone start it...
#60
11-18-2009, 04:16 AM
If you want a cheaper alternative, yes we/Agency Power can make it out of fiberglass and paint it matte black to match the OEM plastic piece. Retail on the carbon box is $675 and I do them for 6speed guys at $540. Our carbon intake still sells very well. As John said way back when, we can also cover the right side snorkel in carbon to match if interested. There was a 6speeder we did it for but never got pics. The Fiberglass unit would still be costly cause of the paint process. I am sure you dont want rattle can even though nobody "shows off" their engine LOL.
If people want the cheaper alternative, will do a Group Buy at $350 shipped for 10 or more. Someone start it...
If people want the cheaper alternative, will do a Group Buy at $350 shipped for 10 or more. Someone start it...
Would it not be a better idea to gelcoat the GRP during the fabrication process, this would not cost any more? This will also help with getting rid of the pitting. I would hate to have a cover with small pin ****** all over it. It would not get installed.
Does the Snorkel look like the stock part or would you have to paint/gelcoat it too?
I will start it for the complete dual snorkel kit for $350, if it satisfies my requirements both in function and ascetics, and I can return it if it does not.
PS, I really wanted a Blue Gauge
Last edited by ShokWaveRider; 11-18-2009 at 06:41 AM.