First off, would like to thank persons involved in these forums. Steep learning curve but lots of available info eased the process significantly. Plan on doing most of the maintenance and modifications DIY.

Aquired a mint one owner (my aunt) 2001 artic silver 996tt MT with all dealer service records and roughly 15k miles. Prestine full stock car. Will be used as a primary DD street car.

Coming from a JDM tuning background, this is my first porsche. Own and owned several high HP modified cars in the past and I must say, for a stock car, it impressed me. I used to argue that the price was unjustified but realize now...
- to modify a JDM car to similar levels of perf., the cost would be the same, if not more, but less reliable, less legal, and less resale value.
- those porsches I've driven/raced against must have been conservatively piloted.
- the chassis, core of the car is far superior, which is not something that can be easily modified on a street car.

My only gripe is the premium attached on tuning parts. Excessive but probably part due to lower volume supply/demand. Can't wait to start tuning!

Have used the search function on many a late nights, but still some questions left unanswered. Gone through about 1.5 tanks of fuel so far so not much seat time. Hope you guys can help answer some questions or steer me to the correct links. Apologize for the long post. Thanks in advance.

Rough Idle:
On cold start, the engine starts like clockwork, shoots to 1500rpm, then bobs 3-5 times between 900-1000rpm, pause at 1k rpm and drops to 900rpm in 3-5 seconds. Idle from then on is consistant but less smooth as when compared to after engine temps reach operating temps. Happens both with AC on/off.

Happens occasionally in stop and go traffic. Tonight, the car stalled when RPMs dropped as the car came to a stop. Dealer records show the MAF was removed and reinstalled, my guess is it's already been cleaned.

My guess here is it's the MAF. Have ordered the new type. This should solve the issues?

Whine at start:
On cold start there's a slight whine (not audible from inside cabin) from the engine compartment. It sounds like a hair dryer or dental drill and lasts for about 30 seconds then goes away.

I'm hoping this is not the beginnings of the power steering pump issue. Steering feels fine as far as I can tell. normal?

Chatter at engine off:
When the engine is switched off, there's a chatter/vibration from below. I'm guessing this is the clutch. normal?

Clutch feel:
Probably my only complaint on this car. The engagement point is consistant mid-high which I gather is normal. However, the bite pressure required is inconsistant ie the amount of throttle required to get the car moving from stop. This is particularly the case for reverse.

accumulator replaced on service records, no leaks.

The clutch lever pressure is consistant, but squeeks when depressed/released. symtom of an issue?

I read a test to check whether the slave is going out on this forum but can't find it again. Pump the clutch X number of times car off and compare the pressure required to move the lever after car's on?

sticking clutch:
clutch appears to stick when disengaged before shift is made. can hear a and feel bump but shifts and engages normal. Doesn't always happen, usually second gear at slow speeds.

transmission:
Perfect when shifting slow but Difficult to execute quicker shifts, second is the worse. No grinding but catches on the gate. Hope the AP short shift and linkage kit doesnt worsen this.

When ambient noise is near zero, I can hear the syncros in neutral. I think this noise is gone when the transmission is at operating temps but could just be my mind playing tricks.

vibration at speed:
Alignment done, wheels spun and balanced.

Fine until I hit 150km/hr (93mph) and goes away as speed increases.

The vibration appears to come from the rear. Don't feel as much of it in the steering wheel as do from the seat.

Hub bearings, suspension bushings?

Clunk noise from rear:
Happens when ground surfaces are uneven, changing grades. Sounds like tapping two pieces of solid wood 4x4 solid wood together. I've heard similar noises from worn subframe bushings on past cars.

smoke:
Slight white smoke at cold start, just a puff, none that I can see when the car's running. Assuming this is from oil collected in turbos and normal?

power:
Sometimes the car accelerates like a slingshot, other times it's more subdued. as mentioned earlier havent had enough seat time so could just be me but have read the issue on diverters. Are there cases where failed diverters cause this? Or could it be a heat soak IAT issue/ECU timing retard issue?

thnx

 

If it's not the MAF, probably time to change plugs, and/or coil packs. The car is now about 9 years old. Power steering pump noise seems to be just that, noise. Never read from anyone that it affected the steering. Clutch is inconsistent in feel and even after driving mine for 2 years I still can't coordinate it every time. Some guys convert to the GT2 solution, but it makes your clutch pedal heavier. There is no quick shifting a Porsche transmission like in some other cars, especially from 1st to 2nd. Smooth 2 part shift from gear to neutral to the next gear is the only way you will not end up doing a trans rebuild. Vibration at speed could be many things but I have had to re-balance my tires more than once. Look for a Hunter 9700 computer balancer, it is superior. Clunk noise I'll leave for others to comment on. White smoke on start up is not a problem I have, but could be caused by not idling the car for 2 minutes before shutdown. It's in the owner's manual, look it up. Turbos need to cool down so as to not crystallize the oil from heat thus causing bearing and seal wear. Finally, the power issue could be plugs and coil packs, or ECU retard, or, depending on the road surface, PSM cutting engine power for traction's sake.

These are just off the top of my head from owning and reading this board. I am not a Porsche tech, nor do I play one on TV. Others are welcome to disagree and offer other ideas and solutions.

Good luck with your new car.

 

thanks for your inputs. plugs were changed not too long ago. But you are right, the coils are 9 years old, but only 15k miles...

wow... 2mins. Anyone running turbo timers in their cars?

 

No to the turbo timers, but get in the habit of cooling them down.

The coil packs seem to be one of those things that can be problematic regardless of mileage. Some have problems, others don't. Maybe your aunt didn't do enough Italian tune ups.

 

2mins... I'm not going to have the patience for this. why not on the turbo timers and will early switch off (after regular commute driving) have adverse affects other than wasting oil?

ital tune up? you mean pedal to the metal? if so, yes she proudly told me she rarely took the car over 3k and used it primarily city driving from home to the office. Most highways she would have used have speed limits of 80 Kph. when she told me this, i was thinking, great... the engine wasn't optimally broken in... they picked it up in germany before shipping it home. Does porsche break in the engines pre-sale?

What are the other symtoms of failure or alternatively evidence to support coils aren't bad (before i go out and order a set)? Not getting any misfires I can feel. thanks!

 

Welcome...quite a long post (without pics)...I will add some to what Larry has already stated. At start-up there is a secondary air pump. It is used for meeting emissions regulations at start-up/warmup. It usually sounds like an electric vacuum cleaner (to me) and can be heard immediately at startup until the engine has warmed to a level that it can control emissions. You should also join Renntech.org and get the TSBs...There is one for oil starvation at start-up (TSB 3/00 1728 Lack of Oil Pressure on Start Up -- dated 7-27-00.) There is also a TSB for power steering whine (4897 01/05). Turbo timers interfere with the alarm system so do a 60-120 second cool down. Unfortunately there are problems reported with second gear (specifically pop out is you search). Vibration....well one of your first mods should be suspension. You might want to check as to which plugs were installed....hopefully not the Berus...

 

thanks. here's a photo of her in the garage. Not very exciting as the car's bone stock.

I have joined renntech, lots of good info on there as well.

The sounds is as you described. So I take it this is normal.

To confirm, under 120 seconds works with the alarm system? Alternatively are there issues with deleting the factory alarm and installing an aftermarket one?

How can I tell if there's oil starvation at start up? Oil pressures are 2bar at idle and 5bar at throttle steady.

Not sure on plugs, the service was done at the dealer. I pressume there's a standard plug. Have ordered one degree higher than stock densos.

On suspension have ordered the KW v3, H&R sway bars/links but my I'm thinking the parts mentioned don't generally cause vibration? the front lower arm and rear trailing arm have been replaced by the dealer. But not the F/R lower arms attached directly to the hubs, and not the upper arms. Her assistant whom helped sell the car told me she ran over speed bumps with out slowing down like normal car lovers would. Complained of noise, and dealer swapped out arms mentioned. She probably blew out the bushings on the replaced parts.

2nd gear doesnt pop out, just shifting into that gear leaves some to be desired. 2 step shifing works well and slides in like butter. good thing tracks are not in the plan for this car.

 

I would recommend you putting a couple of hundred of miles on it at a minimum before you start doing the Mods... You really should get a better feel of what you got before you move forward. Just get that baseline established. Anyways... That's just my take..

 

yes that's a good policy. Will be weeks before the first mods go on.

forgot to attach the photo last night, here she is.

 

Some smoke - oil -- at startup normal. Depends greatly upon how car driven -- short trip shut off with engine not up to temp more likely to see smoke upon next startup. Old oil -- contaminated and thus more fluid -- ditto. Overfilling with oil not recommended. Wrong oil can contribute too.

Power I don't know. Engine has good pick up from down low but really starts to move when boost is being made. Then car's like a rocket.

Have not experienced this with my Turbo but with my other Porsche overinflated tires -- fronts -- can cause a mild and vague sort of vibration at hyper-highway speeds.

Good tires, properly mounted, balanced are critical. Also be sure wheels not bent or damaged from hitting potholes or parking curbs. Cutting corner short and running a wheel over a curb can see wheel damaged a bit. Suspension almost certainly will be knocked out of alignment.

If you're unsure of car's wheel balance and alignment start with this. At same time have tech check shocks for any signs of leaks. Heck have him check all drivetrain, steering, and suspension for any signs of wear or damage.

For engine roughness I'd treat the engine to at least 2 treatments of Techron. Run tank low on gas, dump in bottle of Techron 10 gallon bottle then add 10 gallons of gas. Drive car until tank again low, dump in another 10 gallon bottle and drive car until tank low again. Fill up tank then change oil/filter. Engine might have substantial injector and valve and combustion chamber deposits and Techron will remove them. Engine should run better. If not, well, at least you know.

Shifter not quickest. One has to be deliberate. My 02 Boxster 5-speed shifts much quicker. Turbo shifting slower.

Unless done recently treat car to a brake fluid flush/bleed. Probably due for a coolant drain and refill with fresh antifreeze and distilled water too.

Sincerely,

Macster.

 

thanks macster
On the oil burning, have lost 2bars on the oil meter after about 500 miles, most of which were hardish driving. I've tried running the car for 2mins after a hard drive but there was still a poof the next start. Sometimes there's no smoke but I hear you on low operating temps as one probable cause but Im in a habit of always warm up the car before mashing on it. (anyone know if oil temp is supplied as one of the obd2 pins?) Pretty sure it's the turbos but have read on this forum it's normal. Atleast they are easy to change.

I got an alignment done, tire pressures on spec. Tires were spun and balanced but there's quite a bit of curb rash on couple of the rims.

F/R trailing arms are new. Visual inspection doesn't show significant wear to other bushings. Anyone know how to check the bushings?

There's no cheveron or techron here. But the fuel sold at the pump have additives in them already. I used some off the shelf injector cleaner already, will try to find something stronger.

All fluids were changed month and bit ago. Ran into another mech that recommended changing the thermostat every time the coolant is changed. Anyone doing this?

thanks.

 

as 1 quart in 600 miles (1 liter in 1000km).

Lots of idling or high speed running can see oil consumption go up.

My 03 with (now 17K miles) used just 2 bars in around 3500 miles, mostly highway driving.

What oil you running? Mobil 1 0w-40? If so next change you might try Mobil 1 5w-40 to see if oil consumption affected.

Before replacing turbos, I like to have more *proof* turbos are bad other than a few bars of oil consumption in 500 miles.

Word is the turbos are pretty robust but do give engine/turbos chance to cool down after hard running.

Techron sold in autoparts stores. You can mail order it. It is pretty good stuff. Not sure about other gas additive/fuel injector/combustion chamber cleaners.

Thermostat every coolant change? News to me. I've only had to replace water pump in my Boxster after around 180K miles. Failed. Had t-stat replaced though there was no evidence it needed it but felt that after 180K miles worth the incremental increase in the water pump R&R cost.

Do change/renew coolant every so often. 4 years "max". Keep an eye on the radiators. They can leak.

Drove my Turbo to work today. Heard a bit of rattle upon engine shut off. Sounds ok to me. Don't know what it is. Tranny? Synchros? Probably given the clutch disc rattles a bit the input shaft it is the disc just rattling a bit as engine spins down and any harmonic balancing effect is lost as engine speed decreases from idle to 0.

Be sure to fill up with quality gasoline of the proper octane rating and buy from a busy station.

Curb rash could be sign wheels not quite straight. Were tire/wheels load force balanced?

What tires are you running? Some refuse to use N-rated tires and have good luck. Others report hard if not impossible to diagnose balance/vibration problems.

Me I don't like to gamble and always replace old tires with N-rated. Never mixed brands, though I've used at one time or another on my Boxster Pirelli, Michelin and on the Turbo Continental.

Sincerely,

Macster.

 

THanks for comments...

forced weight balanced? They put it on a machine, spun it and added weights. this is what you mean?

tires are rossos.

I use 98octane, which is all they sell here, 2 grades one with additives one with out. My aunt used most expensive gas so likely the injectors have had small concentrations of cleaners maintained.

pump through put isnt much of an issue as stations can only survive in dense areas, and thus in low supply. one has to go out of their way to get gas in this town.

just remembered techron is an additive on either caltex/shell/esso so one of them must fall under the same conglomerate as cheveron. Imagine international transport of oils or flammable fluids is an issue.Cant find cheveron sold in autoparts stores and mail order is most likely cost preventative unless absolutely necessary. I'm sure there's a reasonable alternative, will look into this

i dunno about the validity of the thermostat thing, just some random guy's opinion, not someone I use.

need to check with the dealer, they changed it last. my guess is it's 5w 40.

turbos i wont change because the smoke. as long as they boost, will drive them until they blow or i get the power bug.

that noise, i am not sure. from inside the car it sounded like the clutch as you say. but i cut ignition with the door open tonight and the sound sounded differnt. will jack up the car when i have time and listen from below.

thanks.

 

Load force or road force balance is the tire/wheel assembly pressed against drum and rotated. This helps the tech balance the assembly better. Generally this method of balancing results in a better balanced tire/wheel assembly than the old fashioned static balancing.

Using a good quality gas is paramount, but vehicle usage can result in injector deposit and valve deposit and combustion chamber deposit build up.

And the wrong usage: Short trips. Lots of heat soaks. Low rpms; can overwhelm even a high quality gasoline's detergent additives. Techron out of the bottle is way stronger -- even diluted with 10 or 12 or 16 or 20 gallons of gas, whatever size treatment bottle you buy, than the Techron present in some brands of gasoline.

I ordered 12 quarts of Mobil 1 5w-50 oil and it was shipped to me. I've never done it but some have ordered racing gas. If you want Techron search for a reputable online seller and order the stuff. The seller will package and ship it appropriately. Might be a bit pricey but you're only going to run a couple of bottles through to try to undo possibly years and miles of well little old lady driving...

Sincerely,

Macster.