Cheap boost hoses...
#31
How much did you pay for these top quality American made silicone hoses? What brand are they?
When we mentioned taking the bumper off we were referring to clipping in the hose connecting the Y pipe to intercooler. That hose is very difficult to clip w/o taking the bumper off, i've done it and its a PITA.
The hoses hanging off the intercooler to the turbo can be swapped by only jacking up either side of the car.
When we mentioned taking the bumper off we were referring to clipping in the hose connecting the Y pipe to intercooler. That hose is very difficult to clip w/o taking the bumper off, i've done it and its a PITA.
The hoses hanging off the intercooler to the turbo can be swapped by only jacking up either side of the car.
I still use the upper silicone hoses because they look so good, but the lower hoses were replaced after 6 months because they came apart where the hose meets the aluminum connector that connects to the IC.
I now have the stock hoses back on the car and they ran me $90 per hose ($180). I should not have tossed my old one away! But the silicone ones look so good!
The F-hose is fine and no issues.
I think I paid $600 for the set of hoses.
#32
I installed my upper and lower boost hoses with out removing the bumper. The lower hoses can be installed but you do need to jack up the read of the car.
I still use the upper silicone hoses because they look so good, but the lower hoses were replaced after 6 months because they came apart where the hose meets the aluminum connector that connects to the IC.
I now have the stock hoses back on the car and they ran me $90 per hose ($180). I should not have tossed my old one away! But the silicone ones look so good!
The F-hose is fine and no issues.
I think I paid $600 for the set of hoses.
I still use the upper silicone hoses because they look so good, but the lower hoses were replaced after 6 months because they came apart where the hose meets the aluminum connector that connects to the IC.
I now have the stock hoses back on the car and they ran me $90 per hose ($180). I should not have tossed my old one away! But the silicone ones look so good!
The F-hose is fine and no issues.
I think I paid $600 for the set of hoses.
Robert which brand did you get?
#33
Did the clamp cut into the hose? If so, there are two possible causes: Too much silicone and not enough reinforcement in the hose, or sharp-edged clamps. Quality rolled-edge clamps that are properly tightened should not cause any damage to a decent hose.
#35
+1--- the correct clamps to use are fully lined and or with rolled edges. there isn't that much room, so the lined clamps will definitely keep the hoses from being cut.
#36
Here is another option... Another member bought these which BBi checked out and said they looked good.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3#ht_795wt_772
I just ordered mine so i'll let you know how they work. Figure they were worth a shot for $251.99 + free shipping!
- David
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3#ht_795wt_772
I just ordered mine so i'll let you know how they work. Figure they were worth a shot for $251.99 + free shipping!
- David
#37
Here's my take on aftermarket hoses. The last 2 cars I seen had them( after market) and they both leaked at the aluminum connections. I spent countless of hours testing different hoses on stock plastic ics as well as aftermarket ones. There are variances and differences in tolerance between the fittings and ICs which may cause the leak. Ironically oem hoses held better. Switzers are nice and forge are great. Big inner diameter and 2.2" inner diameter aluminum connectors. Not all hoses are the same...
Markski
example of the ones that leaked vs. other brands...
Forge compared to OEM
our aluminum fitting on left vs OEM- notice how small the ID is... almost .5"
Markski
example of the ones that leaked vs. other brands...
Forge compared to OEM
our aluminum fitting on left vs OEM- notice how small the ID is... almost .5"
Last edited by markski@markskituning; 09-15-2011 at 03:40 PM.
#38
I've got the ebay ones as well, for almost 3 months now.....I sprayed some hairspray on the alum couplers to the silicone and used good tbolt clamps and they work great. I don't see how someone can pay $500+ for some damn boost hoses.
#39
You might as well use OEM in that case since they fit and don't leak... those with bigger HP cars want larger ID and then I suggest the larger hoses.. but skip the aluminum fittings and go with 2.25" ends and clamp it...
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#40
They work perfectly fine for me, so I'm going to stick with em.
#41
If you did a pressure test from turbos and wiggle the ends while under pressure and if they hold then your ok. I took 2 sets off of a car in front of the client showing him how the aluminum fittings are too small and leak via o rings especially if you move them like when the car is under load and motor moves.
I don't trust any that come from china etc. And this is not a statement of marketing my own. This is the truth. Anyone that had that Many hours in pressure testing and fixing leaks knows where the weaknesses are. Thats why using hard piping and clamping Is recommended.
edit:
this issue is even more pronoun
ced when using after market intercoolers because aluminum end tanks do not budges like plastic thus you can force the aluminum fitting int the plastic but not so easy into a aluminum end tank.. then your fighting ruptured Orings and your back to square one...
I don't trust any that come from china etc. And this is not a statement of marketing my own. This is the truth. Anyone that had that Many hours in pressure testing and fixing leaks knows where the weaknesses are. Thats why using hard piping and clamping Is recommended.
edit:
this issue is even more pronoun
ced when using after market intercoolers because aluminum end tanks do not budges like plastic thus you can force the aluminum fitting int the plastic but not so easy into a aluminum end tank.. then your fighting ruptured Orings and your back to square one...
Last edited by markski@markskituning; 09-18-2011 at 04:31 PM.
#42
If you did a pressure test from turbos and wiggle the ends while under pressure and if they hold then your ok. I took 2 sets off of a car in front of the client showing him how the aluminum fittings are too small and leak via o rings especially if you move them like when the car is under load and motor moves.
I don't trust any that come from china etc. And this is not a statement of marketing my own. This is the truth. Anyone that had that Many hours in pressure testing and fixing leaks knows where the weaknesses are. Thats why using hard piping and clamping Is recommended.
edit:
this issue is even more pronoun
ced when using after market intercoolers because aluminum end tanks do not budges like plastic thus you can force the aluminum fitting int the plastic but not so easy into a aluminum end tank.. then your fighting ruptured Orings and your back to square one...
I don't trust any that come from china etc. And this is not a statement of marketing my own. This is the truth. Anyone that had that Many hours in pressure testing and fixing leaks knows where the weaknesses are. Thats why using hard piping and clamping Is recommended.
edit:
this issue is even more pronoun
ced when using after market intercoolers because aluminum end tanks do not budges like plastic thus you can force the aluminum fitting int the plastic but not so easy into a aluminum end tank.. then your fighting ruptured Orings and your back to square one...
#43
Here's my take on aftermarket hoses. The last 2 cars I seen had them( after market) and they both leaked at the aluminum connections. I spent countless of hours testing different hoses on stock plastic ics as well as aftermarket ones. There are variances and differences in tolerance between the fittings and ICs which may cause the leak. Ironically oem hoses held better. Switzers are nice and forge are great. Big inner diameter and 2.2" inner diameter aluminum connectors. Not all hoses are the same...
Markski
example of the ones that leaked vs. other brands...
Forge compared to OEM
our aluminum fitting on left vs OEM- notice how small the ID is... almost .5"
Markski
example of the ones that leaked vs. other brands...
Forge compared to OEM
our aluminum fitting on left vs OEM- notice how small the ID is... almost .5"
#44
In you case it worked. But most Porsche owners do not wrench and don't even know how to insall them let alone do a pressure test. When shops put them on they never check for boost leaks. Btw both of clients are 6 speed members too. So it's real.
Good hoses at cost are $500. To Cnc the aluminum fittings alone is at Least $35 each assuming you have a cad drawing and do 100 of them. There are 6 in a set. No we can't compete with china on price but on quality no doubt. I rather sleep well at night that my hoses do not leak and do not need boost leak testing. But If one is putting on Chinese hoses then Im saying that one just wasted $250 because they do not offer any benefit. None. Look inside a Samco hose and you will aprreciate quality. Btw I dont sell them just letting you know.
Good hoses at cost are $500. To Cnc the aluminum fittings alone is at Least $35 each assuming you have a cad drawing and do 100 of them. There are 6 in a set. No we can't compete with china on price but on quality no doubt. I rather sleep well at night that my hoses do not leak and do not need boost leak testing. But If one is putting on Chinese hoses then Im saying that one just wasted $250 because they do not offer any benefit. None. Look inside a Samco hose and you will aprreciate quality. Btw I dont sell them just letting you know.
Last edited by markski@markskituning; 09-18-2011 at 07:03 PM.