Thanks, I'm going back in to it tomorrow. I'll update with what I find.

 

+++++111

Just get a long hex (may be supplied in the kit and make sure the cam OK really gets it tight.

Mine did that fro 6 months and voilà.

 

Yup guys, that headlight must be loose or else it is something internal..

Make sure when you put the headlight back in, the two little plastic ***** slide into the factory grooves, there is one **** and one groove on each side of the headlight if you are looking at the headlight from the front of the car. And also make sure when you push the headlight back in, hold the headlight removal tool with pressure while putting pressure on the lens of the headlight, then you should hear a nice "Pop" sound.

-Alex

 

Can you loosen the connector clip that holds the connector to the mounting plate and then with some free play connect the other headlight and see if it flickers? Be sure this connector clip not broken. I've seen them broken and the headlight doesn't connect securely to the connector.

My vote is a loose headlight assembly. I had the driver's side headlight on my Boxster act up late one night driving across AZ east of Flagstaff and finally the light went dark.

Pulled into a rest stop and with some checking found the headlight had worked loose. Shoved it back in and drove on until I reached Flagstaff then next day used tool to securely lock the headlight in place.

More recently, just the other day, tech at shop noticed the headlight assembly in my Turbo not fitting tight. He removed it to trouble shoot a non-functioning headlight washer problem.

Found the headlight not making good connection and traced it to a mis-aligned headlight mounting plate. Seems the body shop that replaced the fender with the a factory new fender -- original fender needed replacement after contact with mule deer -- did not locate and fine tune the mounting plate location properly. (When installing a new mounting plate the manual says to install the nuts upside down to allow more adjustment of the plate to help bring the headlight assembly into proper alignment with the fender opening and the front trunk lid.

2mm down at high point of headlight and fender, 2mm inset of headlight at outside edge just above where fender and bumper gap is, and flush at the headlight and front trunk lid.

Sincerely,

Macster.

 

Headlamp is VERY TIGHT, fits snug in to position and even ran it in and out a few times to make sure all was clear.

Yup, popped in nicely. I have cleaned, checked and even made perfectly straight the pins (both male and female) at the mating on the back of the assembly and the socket that it plugs in to.

Yesterday my new ballast came in, of course the guy sent the wrong part, so I decided to swap ballasts from the good side to the bad side, same issue, so it I have now confirmed it is NOT THE BALLAST.

So, then it gets more strange. Once I determined it was not the ballast, I took the assembly back out, checked everything back over, cleaned the terminals again, slid it back in, started the car and the damn lights (both) came on. Turned them off, went to turn them back on and the bad one is still bad.

At this point, it has to be the starter/ignitor misfiring or not getting enough voltage to the actual ballast, is that a stretch? Anyone ever have to replace an ignitor?

I can tell you this much, I am now a pro at taking apart anything headlamp related and am sick about the fact that this little thing is kicking my butt.

 

Remove the fender liner so you can actually reach the yellow/orange connector in the back when you push the light back in.

The "ears" that hold the connector can get a bit bent or soggy (yeah plastic gets weak) and not push connector hard enough when you push the light in.

It may not be ovious, but especially with a new light with a tight connector area, the connector may not get plugged all the way in.

Behavior can be very random and strange. Also, test the lights with out running the engine (but have a charger on the battery, sitting with lights on and no engine running drains the battery fast). GL.

 

At this point my friend, I'm up for anything. Remove the fender huh? Pretty easy to do?

If this doesn't work, I'm going to see a "pelican" and drive it in to 3 feet of water.


D

 

The igniter is part of the ballast. How did you swap sides? I couldn't get the plug to come out.

 

When you remove the headlamp assembly, dosconnect the ballast from the back of the assembly and disconnet the connector that goes on the back of the Xenon bulb.

At this point, the only thing holding you back is the rectangle shaped plastic piece that retains the cable running from the ballast to the Xenon bulb connector, this piece is held in by 4 plastic prongs that you need to work at (carefully) trying not to break the tabs, but depressing them inward so they release. Work each tab individually until it comes free, then the entire ballast and connector will come free.

I simply took one ballast assembly from the passenger side and put it in the drivers side (they are identical).


Today, I am making 5 foot extensions to run from the female plug to my headlamp assembly which will be sitting on my workbench. This way I can wiggle the actual yellow/orange connector in the back where the headlamp mates to the female plug without having to remove any part of my fender or inner fender.

It could be the relay as well, if possibly one side of the "single pull, double throw" is bad...

 

Trust me, it's not your plug. If its your plug or wire problem, your ballast will shut down after the 3rd or 4th flicker to protect it's circuit.

The starter has died on my driver side ballast so I have to turn the lights on and off. After the bulb warms up, it doesn't need the starter. This process usually takes about 3 minutes. But in the process, my passenger side would shut down too. After a few more tries, both will come on and the one with bad starter would work from dim to bright. So, if it's the input problem, it will shut down after a few flickers.

There are a lot of after market ballast for cheap on eBay. You will need an adapter for $18 for D2S/D2R bulb. I bought a pair and want to change them out so I don't have to deal with start up process. Thanks for the instruction. I will have to cut the tie strap to get it out then.

 

Took the passenger "good" ballast out and moved it to the "bad" side and the "bad" ballast to the passenger "good" side... the passenger side still works with the other ballast in (so the ballast is NOT bad).

Currently, I have the headlamp sitting on my work bench extended with 10 foot leads so I can check all items with the headlamp out and:

1. Tried to get the headlamps to come on with only the accessories on = lamp does not light.

2. Then started the car with the same set-up as above, the headlamp came on for about 1 second, then off.

Looking to get some voltage readings at the inner fender connector. Anyone have the information on what the voltages are supposed to be at the plug/connector that the headlamp assembly plugs in to?

Or, if you have the wiring diagram, that would be helpful more than you can imagine.


Someone asked earlier about how to get the ballast out - there is a pic showing the 4 plastic tabs that need to be carefully depressed at the same time (be patient).

 

Thanks a bunch. Yea. I got that figured out but I didn't want to cut the wire to get the little cover off the wire (my real question). Ultimately, I had to do it. Here is what I did for a $70 (a pair) replacement of HID Ballast.

http://lotususa.com/Alex/996FactoryBallastReplace/

Wow. That is gutsy. Those small wires carry enough amps for the bulbs?

Have you check or swap the headlight relays yet?

 

Great pics of the change out. Thanks. I have a replacement ballast coming just for good measure, but for future reference, who did you get yours from?

Gutsy? Nah, this is a piece of cake. The wires easily carry the voltages out to the headlamp. I think the wiring used to bring the power from the switch to the headlamp is most likely 22 or 24 gauge, it's pretty small. I used 20 gauge for my extensions (seen in the pic).

My next step is to run a bypass from a known good voltage (say maybe the fog lamps that are working) and connect to the pins for the headlamp.

I have not located the headlight relays. Where might those be?

 

Relays are on drivers side up under the dash

 

eBay item 380140731027