Having issues with Agency Power Rear Adjustable Toe Link Kit
#1
Having issues with Agency Power Rear Adjustable Toe Link Kit
Last week as I was driving I noticed the car felt very loose when I hit a bump or at hard acceleration so I decided to have my mechanic to take a look. It turned out to be the rear Agency Power adjustable control arm rod end links. As the car was up in the air he shook the rear wheels and there was a couple MM of play on both wheels. This was caused by the rod end ball joints. He said this was the cause to my problem and that I need to replace them. There should be no play AT ALL.
The price of the rod end was as much as the control arms so he recommended that I should get the RSS rear adjustable control arm as he has never seen any issues whatsover. By comparison when both products were new the Agency Power ball joints were very easy to move. The RSS ball joint seems to be alot more solid and difficult to move. Workmanship seems to be at a much higher quality on the RSS. Now the car feels super solid and stable during bumps and hard acceleration. Glad I took his advice.
PS... Not trying to flame or start a fire just my honest opinion and was wondering if anyone had same issues.
The price of the rod end was as much as the control arms so he recommended that I should get the RSS rear adjustable control arm as he has never seen any issues whatsover. By comparison when both products were new the Agency Power ball joints were very easy to move. The RSS ball joint seems to be alot more solid and difficult to move. Workmanship seems to be at a much higher quality on the RSS. Now the car feels super solid and stable during bumps and hard acceleration. Glad I took his advice.
PS... Not trying to flame or start a fire just my honest opinion and was wondering if anyone had same issues.
#5
yes i agree with you 100 percent just thought i might save a few bucks
#6
yes just very little, but the feel of the road is fantastic and able to adjust your camber more than pays itself on a set of rear tires.
#7
now that they are on my car i couldnt agree with you more.
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#9
Unfortunately I had the very same issue with mine and took them off after three track days. I believe it's the bushing used to size down the heim joint to the bolt diameter size for the pick-up point. The bushing is made of aluminum and that aluminum is to soft, in my opinion.
Bottom line is contact Dan at Vivid, I'm sure he'll take care of you.
Mike
Bottom line is contact Dan at Vivid, I'm sure he'll take care of you.
Mike
#10
i had about 7-8000 miles on them the 1st set of end joints. 2nd set about 10000 miles on them. both sets were driven on street n canyon. i didnt see any telfon.
Last edited by yllwturbo; 10-25-2009 at 07:54 AM.
#11
Unfortunately I had the very same issue with mine and took them off after three track days. I believe it's the bushing used to size down the heim joint to the bolt diameter size for the pick-up point. The bushing is made of aluminum and that aluminum is to soft, in my opinion.
Bottom line is contact Dan at Vivid, I'm sure he'll take care of you.
Mike
Bottom line is contact Dan at Vivid, I'm sure he'll take care of you.
Mike
#15
It appears someone welded on the ends of the AP ones (to obscure the part #s?) WTF is that all about? That might be the reason the AP ones went bad.
Did they use metric threaded rod ends? Those are ~$50ea from aurora. If imperial others sources can be about half that (but it drives me nuts to need imperial wrenches on metric cars.)
I've found most teflon lined rod ends will eventually pound out the teflon, click a little, and need replacing. Maybe in toe control service the requirements are a little less severe. You can get little domed rubber washers for rod ends that will hold grease and then the non-lined ones have an acceptable 'maintenance reduced' service life.
IMO (from an engineering standpoint) they should be using a tie rod end there like the factory does or machining a double stub arbor just like it. The RSS appears to use a bolt w/ adapters on the outer end. Thats typically considered a poor design. Can a bolt work: yes (it obviously does). Is it the right thing to do: no. If the kit uses a turned a double ended tapered sub shaft that gets inserted first and not just a bolt w/ adapters thats fine too *IF* its properly manufactured (after all, thats what a tie rod end it internally.) Tarret uses the factory front outer tie rod end which I think is a great way to avoid reengineering the wheel. That whole end costs about the same as just one metric aurora rod bearing so its a win/win in my book.
Did they use metric threaded rod ends? Those are ~$50ea from aurora. If imperial others sources can be about half that (but it drives me nuts to need imperial wrenches on metric cars.)
I've found most teflon lined rod ends will eventually pound out the teflon, click a little, and need replacing. Maybe in toe control service the requirements are a little less severe. You can get little domed rubber washers for rod ends that will hold grease and then the non-lined ones have an acceptable 'maintenance reduced' service life.
IMO (from an engineering standpoint) they should be using a tie rod end there like the factory does or machining a double stub arbor just like it. The RSS appears to use a bolt w/ adapters on the outer end. Thats typically considered a poor design. Can a bolt work: yes (it obviously does). Is it the right thing to do: no. If the kit uses a turned a double ended tapered sub shaft that gets inserted first and not just a bolt w/ adapters thats fine too *IF* its properly manufactured (after all, thats what a tie rod end it internally.) Tarret uses the factory front outer tie rod end which I think is a great way to avoid reengineering the wheel. That whole end costs about the same as just one metric aurora rod bearing so its a win/win in my book.