996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Blew my motor! :(

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  #76  
Old 10-26-2009, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ReeknHavic
I hate to hear that. I don't think it had anything to do with your tune. I believe that it was a mechanical failure most likely due to a failure of your oil pump. Until you do the "autopsy" you won't know for sure but I think Betim has a very good idea as to what went wrong.
Since you asked for our input, if I were to ever build an engine I wouldn't go much past rods, headstuds and maaaybe a light porting of the heads. Anything after that can get extremely expensive.
Again, I'm really sorry to hear about your engine.
thanks dude

Originally Posted by colorinc
+1 or 6 broke and took out the oil pump
thanks for your tips on PM.. i'll take everything into consideration.
 
  #77  
Old 10-26-2009, 09:35 PM
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sorry to hear. no way to know for sure until you open her up.
 
  #78  
Old 10-26-2009, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin
Having a oil pump failure in a GT1 generation engine is slim to none. It will fail if it ingests bearing material or aluminum from another failing component. I would pull your oil filter element and view the metal content and color of it. With a this engine seeing 7400 and 7500 RPM's the bearings take the hit.

The number 2 rod bearing and crankshaft journal most likely had a issue. The intermediate shaft/and shaft bearings could have also been impacted. I can post a couple pictures from a siezed GT2/X50 GT3 oil pump that failed due to injested aluminum from a failed intermediate shaft> the gear started to walk/wobble it's way into the engine case webbing.

This is going to be a common thread title, as we see many engines pushing 650 - 700 HP (and greater)to the wheels. 7400 RPM's and high HP output on stock rods equals a destroyed engine with little parts left for salvage.
So kevin are rods the weak link here assuming proper tiuning and fuel?
 
  #79  
Old 10-26-2009, 09:43 PM
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OP, Did you have a 5 bar FPR?
 
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Old 10-26-2009, 09:47 PM
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I think he had a 5 bar.
 
  #81  
Old 10-26-2009, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ttboost
You've stated here a few times that you are at the 550whp level. Is that dynotuned or a guess? That seems like a very high HP level for stock injectors. Are you sure you have stock injectors? Or did you mean 550 crank HP?
+1 When I was running stock injectors and fuel pump with my 24/18Gs we were getting into the high 12's/low 13's AFR. This was when I had about 530rwhp on a Dynojet.

Really sorry to hear this man, I wish you the best of luck getting it sorted out.
 
  #82  
Old 10-26-2009, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by vbmw335
OP, Did you have a 5 bar FPR?

Yes, i do have a 5bar fpr

Originally Posted by Kevin
Having a oil pump failure in a GT1 generation engine is slim to none. It will fail if it ingests bearing material or aluminum from another failing component. I would pull your oil filter element and view the metal content and color of it. With a this engine seeing 7400 and 7500 RPM's the bearings take the hit.

The number 2 rod bearing and crankshaft journal most likely had a issue. The intermediate shaft/and shaft bearings could have also been impacted. I can post a couple pictures from a siezed GT2/X50 GT3 oil pump that failed due to injested aluminum from a failed intermediate shaft> the gear started to walk/wobble it's way into the engine case webbing.

This is going to be a common thread title, as we see many engines pushing 650 - 700 HP (and greater)to the wheels. 7400 RPM's and high HP output on stock rods equals a destroyed engine with little parts left for salvage.
Thanks for this information. It's even more obvious to me now that I really need to think this through in terms of what I need to do... I really appreciate everyones input here.
 
  #83  
Old 10-26-2009, 10:03 PM
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Sorry to hear! I have a similar setup and do occasionally take it to 7400 RPM. I think I'm gonna keep it under 7K going forward!
 
  #84  
Old 10-26-2009, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jhuang25
thats really interesting information, never heard of this before but I will bring it up to Betim tomorrow and see. I'm running 100% meth, and we were talking about possibly installing a larger nozzle later for MORE meth. Anyone else ever heard of this issue before?
Not hard to find info on this honestly -> http://www.whitfieldoil.com/www/docs...-gasoline.html Read section on crankcase oil.

also Royal Purple briefly touches on it here -> http://www.royalpurple.com/faqs-racing-rh.html

Note that there are oils specifically designed for engines running full methanol. You have to flow a TON of methanol to fully fuel an engine and so of course soome of it gets by the rings. Just using it on high boost once in awhile for octane bump and intake cooling with a normal synthetic it should be no issue. But run too much, run lots of it - say in an all day tuning session - and you MIGHT have issues. If this was really oil failure of some sort this COULD be a possibility.

Obviously I have no clue how much meth you ran, how long it was tuned, how rich the motor was run, how well atmoized it was, or how many tanks you went through on that oil. I could be way off but for folks running lots of meth it's worth considering. Run a top end lube like Klotz in it, mix a little water in it maybe to cut the corrosive tendency, and pay attention to the oil. High RPMs are probably a much more likely killer here since forces go up exponentially but this should at least be considered I think.
 
  #85  
Old 10-26-2009, 10:15 PM
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Apparently there is much speculation about what might have happened...oil pump, rods, oil dilution from meth etc but there is a datalog that shows what DID happen, at least for a brief snapshot during that parrticular pull. I guess we can assume the datalog is from a dyno pull since it clearly ran to redline which the op said did not happen at the point of failure. Why would there be 36 degrees of timing? That seems excessive especially at those high rpms. I know what my timimg numbers are as well as Joe's and they are a far,far cry from 36 degrees. Also, why run a stock motor with a basic 18g kit to 7500 plus? The turbos are dead long before redline and the extra revs seem redundant. I don't understand this one and I wish the OP well....
 
  #86  
Old 10-26-2009, 10:15 PM
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I certainly have less expertise than most but I will say that running 550 to the wheels on a stock fuel system/5 bar with 91 craptane (and yes I know you had a meth set up) would make me very uncomfortable.
 

Last edited by Dr_jitsu; 10-27-2009 at 02:47 AM.
  #87  
Old 10-26-2009, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr_jitsu
I certainly have less expertise than most but I will say that running 550 to the wheels on a completely stock fuel system with 91 craptane (and yes I know you had a meth set up) would make me very uncomfortable.
I believe he had a 5bar.

The meth will also put a pretty nice fat number on the A/F meter. However meth sprayed into the intake shouldn't ever be a real serious crutch or be relied upon to provide a significant portion of the fueling using kits like this. It is an excellent way to knock down intake temps and to provide octane but when it is relied upon for significant fueling flowing through an intake designed to flow only air you may begin to run into mixture issues.

This was pretty hotly debated in the Supra world back when I and others were doing it using aggro pumps, greenhouse misters, Tupperware tanks, and solid state A/C relays for motor control but we did it and we made power. I also think that most of us didn't flood the motor with the stuff and tried to be somewhat conservative. My power would go from 550RWHP to around 630 on meth safely and my fuel system was proven to over 700RWHP on high octane gas alone so meth wasn't a crutch but rather an assist. I was octane limited, methanol helped fix that. I'd have run E85 if it were readily available and skipped the meth. <shrug>

IMO that's the way it ought to be unless you have a dedicated set of injectors and a fuel system for it. Use it to cool, use it to provide some octane, let it run rich knowing it may not distribute evenly, and don't get too greedy....

Hopefully none of that came into play here. Hopefully this was simply a motor that was ready to go. Maybe a bearing was defective, maybe the oil pump gave up, maybe the RPMs went just a bit too high and a rod suffered. RPMs more so than sheer power are what I'd worry most about, piston speeds grow exponentially...

P.S. Another thing we used to debate... the IAT was post methanol injection point on our cars. How much of an IAT decrease were we really seeing vs cooling of the sensor from the liquid vapor hitting it? Fun stuff to ponder and tons of fun when you have access to tons of datalogging capability - oh how I miss that!
 
  #88  
Old 10-26-2009, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin
vbmw335, it's actually a 3 fold problem.. All related to big end rod bearing and rod. The crankshaft feeds the oil to the rods from both ends of the crankshaft. What we have seen over the last 25 years is that the number 2 rod bearing takes the brunt from lack of oil. The ability to cool the rod bearing journal coupled with a distortion from the big end of the stock rods equal this failure. In extreme cases the rods will break and exit the engine case. Usually the bearing gets wiped out and metal is pumped thru the engine.

Replacing the stock rods is not the simple cure, if you are going to increase the RPM over 7400, you need to address the center rod bearings. "X" drilling the crankshaft and center drilling the engine case will allow oil to flow from three major places instead of 2.

With the 997TT and 997GT3 Porsche has opened up the diameter of the internal crankshaft oiling galley. They have also added dual piston/wrist pin squirters that cool the piston, pins and rods. Heat is the enemy.

I have also mentioned that stepping up to Mobil 5W50 for extreme weather and race conditions does help.

jhuang25 feel free to PM me.
oddly enough i haven't heard much talk around here of oversizing and chamfering the oil galley holes in the crank shaft and mods like these.

nice to see someone looking at it from another perspective
and i havent heard much chatter about ceramic or coatings on the pistons or bearing coatings or anything strange for a high power automotive forum or maybe the shops are just holding out on good discussion *shrug*



and on the meth in the oil idea seen it alot in the offroad scene theres a reason they drain the oil on their bikes after every ride and drain the whole bike from Methanol and flush with gasoline. Klotz benol is good stuff i run the R50 in my two strokes.
 
  #89  
Old 10-27-2009, 12:51 AM
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I gave up on manual boost controllers years ago (on Japanese cars). Back then there was a lot more shooting the dark and we didn't have the tools to data log properly, etc... We'd set the boost via a manual and/or electronic boost controller and hope it worked.

The problem with that setup is that over time there is a tendency to want to boost it up. 1/4 PSI at a time. next thing you know you're 3 psi over the suggested limit, get into a quick race with someone. By this time you are thinking that 3 over the original boost pressure is OK (it's probably not) but you crank it another 1/4 just for this run....

Manual boost controllers are very conducive to over exuberance and take away many safeguards built into this ECU to protect itself.

Please do not take this as an insult to anyone personally. In truth I don't even know if the OP even has a boost controller at all or claiming that he is to blame. Just wanted to share my story with someone if it can keep them from grief down the road.

I'm a fan of ECU boost control for the reasons stated above.

I do have a question: what is generally thought of as a safe modded rev limit? The first gear in these cars can use all the help it can get.
 

Last edited by Turbo Fanatic; 10-27-2009 at 01:54 PM.
  #90  
Old 10-27-2009, 01:19 AM
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Well said Ari,
but I have one and I never go over the suggested limit... neither did I on my 800 hp Evo...

Another thing to consider... most guys run the car with upgraded turbos that come with WG springs... like the 1 bar which I am not a fan of... and during colder weather they overboost considerably and cannot control the psi at all... many posts have been made about problems with overboosting after the aftermarket WGs springs were put on or after the temps dropped...
On stock springs I could not agree with you more... but on aftermarket springs I believe its important to have... or alt least have a method that keeps the PSi where they should be...
 
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