Hi, in the last week i have noticed an oil leak under the transmission ... the first time it was just a little bit (no drops on the floor) but it has become suddenly a very big leak.
I have gone under the car and i have seen a big (very big - 1 drop on the floor every 5-10 sec) amount of oil coming from the top of the rear differential (where the accumulator and the slave cylinder are located).
I know that the clutch accumulator faults prematurely but my questions is if anybody has experienced, together with the stiff pedal, oil leak from it ?
The car has about 70000 miles and never changed the accumulator and the cylinder but, to me, a similar leak is very strange ... but there's nothing more, in that place, that can lose oil !

 

Is the oil greenish in color?

It's possible that one of the compression fittings is leaking for that system, or the accumulator has started to back out of its position. Whatever you do, don't drive it until you get it resolved. Pentosin has a very high flash point to ignite it, but is flamable.

Mike

 

Yes Mike, the oil is green, absolutely not engine oil or transmission oil !
I have checked again and it looks to come out where the accumulator is screwed on the slave cylinder.
The car is sitting in the box and here will stay till monday when i will go to the Porsche dealer to have the problem fixed.
Do you think is better to change the slave cylinder too or just the accumulator ?
And, do you know how many hours will it be necessary to complete the work ?
Thank you

Stefano

 

Mike posted a very nice DIY for this repair:

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...or-w-pics.html

Me, I am going to install the GT2 conversion kit that eliminates Pentosin to the clutch. EVOMS makes one.

Jon

 

I'd recommend changing both, since you aren't sure of the age of the components, and one failing tends to lead to the other, so go ahead and do both. They'll want to charge you for 6-8 hours to do it, but I've done it in less than 3.

Mike

 

Thank you Mike, i'll do both ... the car is a m.y. 2001 so it seems to be a very long life for slave and accumulator.
Now, my last question is if i should clean the 2 water lines before i drive my car to the dealer, on monday.
They are completely covered with Pentosin and i was wondering if they will get eaten in 2-3 days in that dirty conditions !

 

I'd just tell them to replace those along with the accumulator and slave. Hosing them off now won't matter much as the damage is probably done.

I'd recommend having the car towed to the dealership.

Mike

 

+1 on the towing, otherwise possible bonfire.

 

It's possible that a small metal line above the accumulator has a bad fitting, happened to my 2002. In my case Pentosin covered EVERYTHING as I was driving the car - lucky it didn't burn. In my case the fitting apparently just failed. I'm pretty sure it had been removed and screwed back in for a clutch replacement but the shop said they didn't touch it. <shrug> In any case the flare simply failed and no matter how tight, how clean, or much we messed with it the thing simply leaked. To get to the line properly the axle on the driver's side had to be unbolted from the transaxle and the entire line was replaced - in my case with a hand built part FWIW none of my rubber parts had any issues but they were probably only covered for about 15 hours or so. The entire rear of the car, including the exhaust, was covered in Pentosin - all over the paint too! No issues since the part was swapped...

 

Well, i have been under my car to understand clearly where the oil was comimg from ... so, everything well cleaned, water hoses taken apart and light to see better !
Engine on and ... ops ... immediately a leak coming clearly from where the accumulator is screwed in the slave-cylinder, probably the o-ring or maybe (after lot of track-days) the accumulator has slightly unscrewed due to vibrations or ... i don't know !!!
This means i will try with a new accumulator and only after have tested it i will decide if it's time to do the slave too or not ...
... but now i would like just to know if the bleeding procedure is necessary (in the Porsche informations on "how to install" there's no mention to bleeding procedure (but Mike, usually, does it) ... it just says "to depress the clutch pedal approx. 10 times to bleed high-pressure hydraulic system" !
What is best ?

 

You and I have discussed this offline quite a bit, and you know my opinion of the folks who did that clutch swap. Every single Porsche Tech, both Indy, factory tech, and race tech, has said flat out that IF the hardpipe link between the slave and the steering reservoir wasn't disconnected at the slave, that the stress put on it damaged the pipe flare. The individual who did that work took yet another shortcut, which makes me wonder what else he shortcut in the process working on that car, which is sad, because many here hold him in high regard as a tuner/seller of parts.

Also, It's really a crap shoot with pentosin catching fire, but there are enough cases recorded that I wouldn't risk it personally. Once it ignites, the engine bay is engulfed and you can kiss the car goodby. It simply is not a "reasonable" risk for most folks to take.

Mike

 

The only way I could get it to properly bleed was as I documented in that DIY, by using a pressure bleeder. I tried other ways as mentioned by others and never could get it to quite work.

Mike

 

Mike's right.
Motive bleeder, air only works like a champ.