500 to 600hp - best path?
#16
Unless you are going to run race gas and high boost a 5 bar should suffice for fueling.
16/16g for most economical. These turbos are great but die on the top end. Get upgraded wastegate springs if you will run over 1.0 BAR on any stock based turbo (K16 or K24). The stock wastegate spring can't hold past 1.0 bar and start to flap open.
Ultimately though, it's hard to beat the Tial ball bearing turbos. Get some Tial A28 or 2860 and 2871 (depending on your budget). In 6th gear you get the 1.3 BAR peak by 3200 RPM. Keep in mind that at 1.3-1.4 BAR we're talking almost double the boost by 3200 RPM. These will give you the ability to run low boost on the track and high boost on the strip and street.
Do your homework. Some tunes, especially those that may replace the factory MAF with something else may give you less than perfect driveability.
16/16g for most economical. These turbos are great but die on the top end. Get upgraded wastegate springs if you will run over 1.0 BAR on any stock based turbo (K16 or K24). The stock wastegate spring can't hold past 1.0 bar and start to flap open.
Ultimately though, it's hard to beat the Tial ball bearing turbos. Get some Tial A28 or 2860 and 2871 (depending on your budget). In 6th gear you get the 1.3 BAR peak by 3200 RPM. Keep in mind that at 1.3-1.4 BAR we're talking almost double the boost by 3200 RPM. These will give you the ability to run low boost on the track and high boost on the strip and street.
Do your homework. Some tunes, especially those that may replace the factory MAF with something else may give you less than perfect driveability.
Last edited by Turbo Fanatic; 11-28-2009 at 10:02 PM.
#18
I'm currently running the setup you are looking for. Do yourself a favor and: (i) have the wastegate actuators upgraded at the same time you have the K16s rebuilt and (ii) swap out the stock 3.8 bar fuel pressure regulator for a 5.0 bar before you retune. That will get you to 600 flywheel (at 1.2 bar), but you'll have to go to ~90% injector duty cycle to get there.
You can always due injectors and engine build for that extra safety margin, but many here (myself included) run around 600 crank without and haven't had any problems. At only 600hp, the juice isn't worth the squeeze. Injectors are a PAIN to do on these cars.
What I love about the K16/16g setup is that they are very modulatable. GT28's are great and have very little lag, but they're on or off. I can hold .7 bar at part throttle through a corner with these. I've found that to be very useful. Much of this depends on how well your tuner tunes part-throttle situations, however.
Good luck!
You can always due injectors and engine build for that extra safety margin, but many here (myself included) run around 600 crank without and haven't had any problems. At only 600hp, the juice isn't worth the squeeze. Injectors are a PAIN to do on these cars.
What I love about the K16/16g setup is that they are very modulatable. GT28's are great and have very little lag, but they're on or off. I can hold .7 bar at part throttle through a corner with these. I've found that to be very useful. Much of this depends on how well your tuner tunes part-throttle situations, however.
Good luck!
#19
I have had both k16/16g and k24/18g on the tracks around here. My vote definitely goes for 16g for the track duty. The spool is equal or better than stock with tons of low end TQ and very good power. At 1 bar you can expect to be at 550-575 CHP, maybe higher with 1.2 bar , free flowing exhaust etc...
Honestly , not sure how good of a driver you are ...16g will be a handful for most people i know. Start with suspension and other mods...no use if you have all the power and cant stop and turn fast.
Honestly , not sure how good of a driver you are ...16g will be a handful for most people i know. Start with suspension and other mods...no use if you have all the power and cant stop and turn fast.
#20
Unless you are going to run race gas and high boost a 5 bar should suffice for fueling.
16/16g for most economical. These turbos are great but die on the top end. Get upgraded wastegate springs if you will run over 1.1 BAR on any stock based turbo (K16 or K24). The stock wastegate spring can't hold past 1.0 bar and start to flap open.
Ultimately though, it's hard to beat the Tial ball bearing turbos. Get some Tial A28 or 2860 and 2871 (depending on your budget). In 6th gear you get the 1.3 BAR peak by 3200 RPM. Keep in mind that at 1.3-1.4 BAR we're talking almost double the boost by 3200 RPM. These will give you the ability to run low boost on the track and high boost on the strip and street.
Do your homework. Some tunes, especially those that may replace the factory MAF with something else may give you less than perfect driveability.
16/16g for most economical. These turbos are great but die on the top end. Get upgraded wastegate springs if you will run over 1.1 BAR on any stock based turbo (K16 or K24). The stock wastegate spring can't hold past 1.0 bar and start to flap open.
Ultimately though, it's hard to beat the Tial ball bearing turbos. Get some Tial A28 or 2860 and 2871 (depending on your budget). In 6th gear you get the 1.3 BAR peak by 3200 RPM. Keep in mind that at 1.3-1.4 BAR we're talking almost double the boost by 3200 RPM. These will give you the ability to run low boost on the track and high boost on the strip and street.
Do your homework. Some tunes, especially those that may replace the factory MAF with something else may give you less than perfect driveability.
#21
I get my gear through EPL. They've done a LOT of development on the 16g platform. They include everything down to the gaskets and stud bolts in their kits. Great bunch of guys too.
#23
I started reading this thread and shaking my head, because I "know" who MrWhite is professionally, and know that from a driver's perspective, he's more capable than most people on this board of driving a car of this caliber at the limits on track...
Now for my opinion on the whole "600FWHP" thing... I'd recommend talking to Kevin at UMW and go with one of his optimized setups. I am a smaller turbo guy because I hate lag and love a flat torque curve from off idle to 1.2bar at 7000RPMS. With a five bar FPR, upgraded wastegate springs, and some intercoolers, along with a free flowing exhaust, you can get 600BHP on 93 Octane, and over 600BHP with 100 Octane. I've been extremely happy with my setup, which is the older K16/24 turbos.
Good luck and hit me offline if you want more specifics.
Mike
Now for my opinion on the whole "600FWHP" thing... I'd recommend talking to Kevin at UMW and go with one of his optimized setups. I am a smaller turbo guy because I hate lag and love a flat torque curve from off idle to 1.2bar at 7000RPMS. With a five bar FPR, upgraded wastegate springs, and some intercoolers, along with a free flowing exhaust, you can get 600BHP on 93 Octane, and over 600BHP with 100 Octane. I've been extremely happy with my setup, which is the older K16/24 turbos.
Good luck and hit me offline if you want more specifics.
Mike
#24
Um, sorry Mr. White. I think you could walk me any day of the week with 100 hp less than any car I'd happen to be in at the time.
Sorry.
On turbos, my favorite option, to be honest, is the Porsche OEM 997 GT2 turbine turbo that Kevin of UMW sells in a custom unit, get his ZeroClearance coating so you get on boost sooner, and get his safe code....and have fun....for that you may need the suspension and a clutch. I happen to have his clutch and LWFW and love it. Sounds like you could use that too...and while in there, get the evoms gt2 clutch kits. Then you have a street car that will track like a son of a gun....
Get a Switzer or Markski exhaust (crossover) and be done with it (or GMG...these crossovers, all of them, are light and amazing).
Again, my apologies.
Jeff
Sorry.
On turbos, my favorite option, to be honest, is the Porsche OEM 997 GT2 turbine turbo that Kevin of UMW sells in a custom unit, get his ZeroClearance coating so you get on boost sooner, and get his safe code....and have fun....for that you may need the suspension and a clutch. I happen to have his clutch and LWFW and love it. Sounds like you could use that too...and while in there, get the evoms gt2 clutch kits. Then you have a street car that will track like a son of a gun....
Get a Switzer or Markski exhaust (crossover) and be done with it (or GMG...these crossovers, all of them, are light and amazing).
Again, my apologies.
Jeff
#25
Hey thanks guys, K16/24 seems like maybe a little more hardware change than 16G (?) but def looks like you have a good option there Mike and Jeff NO NEED for apologies, I didn't advertise anything so any responses asked for as a TT owner on my part also taken as a fellow TT owner nothing else! I know there are some great track (roadcourse and 1/4 mile) aces here who may have tried and proven components and this is great homework to read up on unbiased of previous experience.
I have the GT2 slave conversion kit laying in a box since 2 weeks back and I REALLY look fwd to getting that installed knowing how different the TT pedal feels from a GT3 clutch pedal. The actual clutch element I am curious to find out during LSD install what it is since the car has some other discrete mods and the clutch feels incredibly strong / "compact" in its engagement, even through the pentosin assist system. It may be stock but may very well be something else.
To the point though, UMW will also be added to the list.
I have the GT2 slave conversion kit laying in a box since 2 weeks back and I REALLY look fwd to getting that installed knowing how different the TT pedal feels from a GT3 clutch pedal. The actual clutch element I am curious to find out during LSD install what it is since the car has some other discrete mods and the clutch feels incredibly strong / "compact" in its engagement, even through the pentosin assist system. It may be stock but may very well be something else.
To the point though, UMW will also be added to the list.
#26
Seems like a look at the billet turbos just now being introduced might be a good idea. Fast response and good top end would probably be the ticket. -> https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...no-inside.html
#27
i would consider the billet k16's the UMW turbos 16g and the gt28 hybrids, but reguardless of which turbo you get upgrade the wastegates and go with a high quality boost controller like a profec B or a EVCR so on the event that you want to tone down the boost to make the car smoother you can.
if your gonna have the motor dropped then you can gain a bit of spool and flow up top by changing the restrictive stock Fresh air INLET hoses.
a 5 BAR FPR is plenty
a BMC air filter or dual snorkle intake box would also be a nice addition with larger inlet pipes.
porting the stock exhaust manifolds while they are out would be a good idea.
if your not having someone that is familiar with our cars (996tt) becareful on pushing the timing to make power.
if your gonna have the motor dropped then you can gain a bit of spool and flow up top by changing the restrictive stock Fresh air INLET hoses.
a 5 BAR FPR is plenty
a BMC air filter or dual snorkle intake box would also be a nice addition with larger inlet pipes.
porting the stock exhaust manifolds while they are out would be a good idea.
if your not having someone that is familiar with our cars (996tt) becareful on pushing the timing to make power.
Last edited by OS Inspector; 11-28-2009 at 09:18 PM. Reason: typo
#28
I know the exhaust can be pretty restrictive, but just exactly how restrictive is a boost hose? I see guys going to the SAMPCOs but until you get up around 600 HP, I'm not really convinced that the OEM hoses wont' be sufficient. For the Stage 1 setups it seems to be the spiffy colors and bling factor rather than a performance issue.
#29
Inlet pipes is an excellent suggestion! Personally I don't much like the 5BAR FPR though. It's more than stock for sure but he's tracking this car so why not do it right and have plenty of room? I'm also not sure that swapping out the air filter or box is needed - until I saw the size of this thing I would never have said that believe me! I wish there was an easy way to take some vac readings on the intake side, I'd sure like to see if that sucker is restrictive - likewise the air pipes which I know have got to be restrictive - but how much?
P.S. I wonder at what point intercoolers will make sense? 600HP seems to be in the range where they may begin to make a bigger difference - especially on a car that's tracked. Getting pricey though!
P.S. I wonder at what point intercoolers will make sense? 600HP seems to be in the range where they may begin to make a bigger difference - especially on a car that's tracked. Getting pricey though!
#30
Seems like a look at the billet turbos just now being introduced might be a good idea. Fast response and good top end would probably be the ticket. -> https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...no-inside.html
Oh yeah seems very nice for sure... did they give a cost yet for the impeller upgrade?