My suspension is stock except for a set of newly installed pss10s and a gt3 rear sway. I've been searching just about every forum possible for the last 7 days and posting the questions as an SOS, if you will.

-I'm at about a 25 3/4" ride height in front and I'm only getting about -1.2 camber in the front. I used the slotted holes in the front strut towers to adjust. Is this normal?

-How does I adjust camber in the rear? My ride height is about 26", with the left corner at -2.1 and the right at -1.8. I'm aware there is a cam bolt, but (embarrassingly) confused as to which bolt is the correct one.

-Finally, can anyone further explain how to adjust front/rear toe? Pics would be great, but a detailed explanation will do fine.


I have the longacre toe plates as well as the smartracing camber gauge. Any contribution would be greatly appreciated, as I'm at a real standstill. Thanks in advance!

 

I have PSS9's, and this was my experience as well. I had the slots extended, and I could get to about -1.5 or -1.6, but then the upper spring started to interfere with frame, so that was as far is it would go. I solved the problem by putting on GT3 split lower control arms. In that case, you increase camber by adding shims into the arm, pushing the bottom out, rather than the top in as you do with the upper adjustment. IMO, this is the only solution. People with JIC's seem to have more adjustment room.

I'm going to not respond to this one, because I've never done it using the cam bolts. I changed to the adjustable upper dog bones, which make it pretty easy to do. I also have an adjustable toe link back there. I'll try to get you a photo of that setup later today.

Adjusting front toe is fairly easy. Locate the tie rod (it turns the wheel by pushing at the lower front of it on the inside). The tie rod end threads into the tie rod itself about 5" or so from the end. It is held in place with a 21mm jam nut. Loosen the jam nut and back it off. There are flats on the tie rod end that turn with a 13mm open end wrench. Making the tie rod LONGER toes the wheel OUT. The thread on both sides is right-handed. Count the number of turns you make if you want to go between street and track settings, for example. After you set the toe, tighten the jam nut by hand and drive the car. Mine usually tracks ok, but the steering wheel is often not centered. Bring it back in, and add the same number of turns on one side that you subtract from the other. Then tighten the jam nut when it's where you want it.

Hope that helps.

Jon

 

Thanks Jon! Is there any way to adjust my front caster with the stock components? I'm at 8.85 deg. on the left, and 7.5 deg on the right.

 

No... almost. You can actually press out the bushing and turn it a little to get some adjustment. But at that point, you might as well replace it with one of the adjustable ones with three holes in it.

The way that I would recommend set up the car to take a good track and street alignment is:

Front: GT3 control arms, adjustable caster bushing

Rear: Either of these two options:
Adjustable upper dog bones, adjustable toe link
OR
GT3 control arms, adjustable toe link

I have the first of those two options. I'm not sure, but I think some folks have both the GT3 arms and adjustable dog bones in the rear. There is also a locking plate (I don't have on yet) that a lot of people recommend. There was a recent thread on this.

Several of the suppliers have these parts: GMG, Vivid, TRG, ...

Jon

 

Anyone have success with these on stock turbo wheels? Appears at first glance it will be difficult to mount. Thanks.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...Gauges#reviews

 

Standard smartcamber gauge. If nothing else works, use a bungee cord wrapped around the spokes of the wheel and extending over the gauge.

If you really want to check the accuracy of your placement, turn the gauge upside down and compare camber measurements. Pos and neg camber should be equal.