DIY Suspension Alignment Thread - Lets chat..
#1
01-03-2010 | 07:02 AM
DIY Suspension Alignment Thread - Lets chat..
With the economy the way it is these days, more and more guys and gals are doing more and more of their own work... However, many folks get nervous when thinking about chewing up expensive tires and adversely effecting the handling of their car... I don't blame you.
However, the amature racer and weekend warrier must understand how to set up their cars for and at the track. Although I do have a lift, you don't need one to be able to set up your own car for track day fun, and then return it to weekday kid hauler status. A little prep-work is important, and great note taking is a MUST.
The tools required will cost you a few bucks, but will pay for themselves within just one season of use, if you adjust your suspension more than twice per year.
The tools you will need to make changes to your car with are as follows:
Tools to Document with - This is so important and a step many jump past, when getting started... You want to capture all the data on your car's suspension, as it sits right now, and how you want it to sit when done. This is VERY important if you plan to duplicate later.
Longacre sells a book with chassis setup forms, but Excel spreadsheets and a laptop work wonders... Just remember to back up your data and save it to a couple different formats.
Caster-Camber gauge - I had an older setup that used an angle finder and degree wheel. It worked, but was not precise to the level I truly needed. I now have a SMARTCamber tool that is absolutely a must.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p..._Camber_Gauges
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p..._Camber_Gauges
TOE Measuring Tool - There are a number of tools out there on the market. You can string a car, use lazers, or good old fashion toe plates. I've done string and toe plates in the past, and depending on the car, it really does make a difference which you use.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/c..._Alignment_Kit
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...d_Laser_Plates
Turn Tables - Not necessary, but it certainly helps. Thes tables allow you to park the car on them and make the appropriate adjustments without fighting the asphalt or concrete the tires are resting on. Aluminum units are expensive ($500-800). Steel units are cheap, but heavy. Bought mine from a guy for $100 and paid almost as much to ship them (weigh about 25-30# each!).
FACTORY SHOP Manual (FSM) - This little tidbit of info is available in various forms. Typically anyone that visits me leaves with a copy on CD... The FSM has all the specs you need for aligning the car. It also shows you where the proper adjusters are, and how to use them. It also shows you the appropriate spots to measure for ride height from when setting up coil-overs.
Wrenches, Jack and Jackstands - You've got to get the car up in the air to access the various adjusters. So make sure you have these and a variety of metric tools on hand. You'll want 15MM/16MM/17MM/18MM wrenches, both boxed and open to work with.
*Disclaimer* This works for me, and I'm not a professional, only a hack working out of my own private shop.
Pictures will follow at a later date... I do not have my car at the moment... It's in the shop for a trans rebuild... STILL.
Those that want to go nuts (and I'm in this category!) will want scales and platforms to do the actual work on their cars with... Beware, this can be a much more slippery slope than "modding" your car.
I'm hoping Jon will chime in, since he's one of few I know who does his own alignments...
Now you have the basic tools laid out... Next we'll discuss what it is we're adjusting on a STOCK suspension system.
First thing you need to do is confirm where your car sits right now. It should have a recent fresh alignment with no sign of adverse wear on your tires, as in outter or inner edges worn excessively, and not evidence that the car pulls to on side or the other. Truly your best bet is to have the car aligned and get the numbers/printout from the shop, so you can be 100% sure you're working with a good setting from the outset. After reading all the documentation for all those cool tools, and playing around with it a bit, you need to start documenting the current settings with YOUR tools. You want to baseline what you have, compared to what the shop recorded. Do not raise the car with jacks to get these measurements. You want the car to be fully rested on its suspension and you don't want to "relieve" the weight from the suspension. What I mean here is "how the car looks" initially after it has come off its jacks or lift...
You'll obviously be using your new tools from here on out, and this is why it is critical to buy the best tools you can, especially for caster/camber and toe measuring, and reading the instructions to understand how they work before hand.
Now, since you've recorded your caster/camber/toe:
CAMBER: Your car has four corners to adjust. At those four corners you have eccentric cam adjusters for CAMBER. The front strut Tower (under the plastic covers where the battery resides) are slotted so you can adjust camber from the top as well. Caster can be adjusted with the upper spring perch cups, by rotating them.
TOE: You also have TIE RODs that control the steering angle of each corner. These are called steering toe links. Since your car has been properly aligned by a good shop, you want to make sure you understand those numbers well from your recording. As you have adjusted your camber, you have pulled toe OUT of alignment. Don't panic. You can return it to its prior numbers by simply returning caster and camber back to the previous numbers, wiping your brow and heading to the fridge for a beer! (Get me one while you're there...) However, you'll have gained nothing, but a full bladder.
Back to adjusting the toe. With the camber and caster adjusted to the numbers that you've been given by some idiot on the internet (stop looking at me that way), you'll want to re-set the toe to the values needed... BUT, you must do this per corner. In other words, if someone gives you the values of "1/8th toe in", make sure you understand them to mean one of two things: 1/8th toe in or out TOTAL (per axle) or 1/8th toe in or out PER CORNER. However you measure your toe, you'll want to understand this from the outset.
Once you have the desired settings for each corner, you'll want to go back and re-check your lock-nuts, bolts/adjusters to make sure they aren't just "snugged down", but rather torqued to the appropriate amount.
Gang, it is really this simple. It till take you better part of 4-5 hours the first time you do this... Every time there after the amount of time will fall rapidly. You'll get to the point of being able to setup your own chassis in 1-2 hours MAX.
Chime in Jon and others...
However, the amature racer and weekend warrier must understand how to set up their cars for and at the track. Although I do have a lift, you don't need one to be able to set up your own car for track day fun, and then return it to weekday kid hauler status. A little prep-work is important, and great note taking is a MUST.
The tools required will cost you a few bucks, but will pay for themselves within just one season of use, if you adjust your suspension more than twice per year.
The tools you will need to make changes to your car with are as follows:
Tools to Document with - This is so important and a step many jump past, when getting started... You want to capture all the data on your car's suspension, as it sits right now, and how you want it to sit when done. This is VERY important if you plan to duplicate later.
Longacre sells a book with chassis setup forms, but Excel spreadsheets and a laptop work wonders... Just remember to back up your data and save it to a couple different formats.
Caster-Camber gauge - I had an older setup that used an angle finder and degree wheel. It worked, but was not precise to the level I truly needed. I now have a SMARTCamber tool that is absolutely a must.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p..._Camber_Gauges
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p..._Camber_Gauges
TOE Measuring Tool - There are a number of tools out there on the market. You can string a car, use lazers, or good old fashion toe plates. I've done string and toe plates in the past, and depending on the car, it really does make a difference which you use.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/c..._Alignment_Kit
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...d_Laser_Plates
Turn Tables - Not necessary, but it certainly helps. Thes tables allow you to park the car on them and make the appropriate adjustments without fighting the asphalt or concrete the tires are resting on. Aluminum units are expensive ($500-800). Steel units are cheap, but heavy. Bought mine from a guy for $100 and paid almost as much to ship them (weigh about 25-30# each!).
FACTORY SHOP Manual (FSM) - This little tidbit of info is available in various forms. Typically anyone that visits me leaves with a copy on CD... The FSM has all the specs you need for aligning the car. It also shows you where the proper adjusters are, and how to use them. It also shows you the appropriate spots to measure for ride height from when setting up coil-overs.
Wrenches, Jack and Jackstands - You've got to get the car up in the air to access the various adjusters. So make sure you have these and a variety of metric tools on hand. You'll want 15MM/16MM/17MM/18MM wrenches, both boxed and open to work with.
*Disclaimer* This works for me, and I'm not a professional, only a hack working out of my own private shop.
Pictures will follow at a later date... I do not have my car at the moment... It's in the shop for a trans rebuild... STILL.
Those that want to go nuts (and I'm in this category!) will want scales and platforms to do the actual work on their cars with... Beware, this can be a much more slippery slope than "modding" your car.
I'm hoping Jon will chime in, since he's one of few I know who does his own alignments...
Now you have the basic tools laid out... Next we'll discuss what it is we're adjusting on a STOCK suspension system.
First thing you need to do is confirm where your car sits right now. It should have a recent fresh alignment with no sign of adverse wear on your tires, as in outter or inner edges worn excessively, and not evidence that the car pulls to on side or the other. Truly your best bet is to have the car aligned and get the numbers/printout from the shop, so you can be 100% sure you're working with a good setting from the outset. After reading all the documentation for all those cool tools, and playing around with it a bit, you need to start documenting the current settings with YOUR tools. You want to baseline what you have, compared to what the shop recorded. Do not raise the car with jacks to get these measurements. You want the car to be fully rested on its suspension and you don't want to "relieve" the weight from the suspension. What I mean here is "how the car looks" initially after it has come off its jacks or lift...
You'll obviously be using your new tools from here on out, and this is why it is critical to buy the best tools you can, especially for caster/camber and toe measuring, and reading the instructions to understand how they work before hand.
Now, since you've recorded your caster/camber/toe:
CAMBER: Your car has four corners to adjust. At those four corners you have eccentric cam adjusters for CAMBER. The front strut Tower (under the plastic covers where the battery resides) are slotted so you can adjust camber from the top as well. Caster can be adjusted with the upper spring perch cups, by rotating them.
TOE: You also have TIE RODs that control the steering angle of each corner. These are called steering toe links. Since your car has been properly aligned by a good shop, you want to make sure you understand those numbers well from your recording. As you have adjusted your camber, you have pulled toe OUT of alignment. Don't panic. You can return it to its prior numbers by simply returning caster and camber back to the previous numbers, wiping your brow and heading to the fridge for a beer! (Get me one while you're there...) However, you'll have gained nothing, but a full bladder.
Back to adjusting the toe. With the camber and caster adjusted to the numbers that you've been given by some idiot on the internet (stop looking at me that way), you'll want to re-set the toe to the values needed... BUT, you must do this per corner. In other words, if someone gives you the values of "1/8th toe in", make sure you understand them to mean one of two things: 1/8th toe in or out TOTAL (per axle) or 1/8th toe in or out PER CORNER. However you measure your toe, you'll want to understand this from the outset.Once you have the desired settings for each corner, you'll want to go back and re-check your lock-nuts, bolts/adjusters to make sure they aren't just "snugged down", but rather torqued to the appropriate amount.
Gang, it is really this simple. It till take you better part of 4-5 hours the first time you do this... Every time there after the amount of time will fall rapidly. You'll get to the point of being able to setup your own chassis in 1-2 hours MAX.
Chime in Jon and others...
Last edited by GT3 Chuck; 11-29-2010 at 09:28 PM.
#2
01-03-2010 | 11:46 AM
Well, since I was invited...
Mike is the one who got me into this. I was getting tired of paying $160 a pop for alignments, and wanted to easily go back and forth between street and track settings.
Here's what I do. It's not as scientific as Mike, but it seems to work for me. ALWAYS use jackstands. Having a car fall on you is a really stupid way to die.
Starting from a shop alignment, as Mike suggests, I record the numbers using my tools (SmartCamber, Longacre toe plates). I usually don't bother with caster since I can't readily change it anyway.
Rear: I have adjustable dogbones and toe link. When I went to the alignment shop, I had them set the car to both street and track settings, and recorded the difference. All I do is reproduce those settings. On my car, that turns out to be 1.5 turns on the front dogbone, 3 turns on the rear dogbone, and 0.5 turns on the toe link. To make the adjustments, jack the rear, remove tires and put on jackstands.
Front: More work. Again, I use the two settings I got at the alignment shop as a guide, but it seems that on the front that always requires tweaking. I can get all of the camber adjustment I need just by adding shims to the GT3 control arms, so I leave the upper adjustment alone. Here's a step-by-step from street setting to track setting:
> Jack front and place and jackstands.
> Remove lower bolt on sway bar drop link.
> Street setting has no shims in control arm, track setting has 14mm. Loosen 2x10mm nuts on lower control arm, and back out almost all of the way to the end of the stud. 14mm is the maximum I can get into the arm.
> Place jack under one front wheel and lift it an inch or so, just to take the weight off of it. This makes it much easier to push open the control arm. I prefer not to pry on it, but admit to occasionally getting a little help from a long screwdriver cushioned by a piece of rubber.
> Drop in 7+3+2+2 mm shims. I insert the shims in alternate directions because that makes it easier to pry them apart on removal. You only need to get one out, and the rest are easy.
> Tighten the nuts on the control arm. Note that this is a PITA. You can only fit a box end 10mm wrench (no socket) and you get about 1/8 turn before having to move the wrench.
> Loosen 21mm jam nut on tie rod, and make tie rods longer using a 13mm open end wrench. For me, this is 9.75 turns as my baseline. It is surprisingly easy to lose count. Leave the jam nut loose.
> Raise the car, remove jackstands and lower car onto top of ramps. This is to adjust the swaybar, which must be done while the suspension is loaded. Adjust length of drop link so that the bar is in the lower 1/3 of the space between the control arm and the axle. The length needs to be adjusted until the bolt slides in and out easily to avoid pre-loading the suspension. Turn steering to full lock in both directions to be sure the bar doesn't rub the axle. Tighten drop links.
> Raise car, remove the ramps and lower car to the floor. Push the car back and forth 8-10 feet several times to get the suspension to resettle. I need to do this because I don't have those nice alignment plates.
> Measure toe, and adjust as needed. There is a little bit of art to this, since I don't have anything that measures toe on each side independently. First straighten the steering wheel. Measure the toe, and try to add equal amounts to both sides. Note that it is not easy to reach when your car is on the ground, and you can't see the tie rod, so you have to do it by feel. Probably much easier to do if you have those alignment plates, since they give you a little extra height. After adjusting, roll the car back and forth a couple of times again and recheck. Tighten the jam nuts hand tight.
> Drive the car. I set for 0 toe for the track, 1/16" total toe in for the street. My car always tracks straight on a flat road. Sometimes the steering wheel isn't centered. If not, return to the garage, remeasure the toe, and add from one side and subtract from the other the same amount to center the steering wheel. It seems that 1/4 turn on the tie rod on both sides changes the steering angle by about 5 degrees.
> Jack the car one more time, put it on the ramps, and tighten the jam nut.
Takes 1-2 hours. It helps to make a list of the tools you need so that you have everything within reach when you go under the car.
Drop links: 8mm allen, 17mm box, 3/4 open, 7/8 open
Control arm: 10mm open, screwdriver, rubber pad
Tie rods: 21mm open, 13mm open
It's really not so hard once you have done it a couple of times.
Jon
Mike is the one who got me into this. I was getting tired of paying $160 a pop for alignments, and wanted to easily go back and forth between street and track settings.
Here's what I do. It's not as scientific as Mike, but it seems to work for me. ALWAYS use jackstands. Having a car fall on you is a really stupid way to die.
Starting from a shop alignment, as Mike suggests, I record the numbers using my tools (SmartCamber, Longacre toe plates). I usually don't bother with caster since I can't readily change it anyway.
Rear: I have adjustable dogbones and toe link. When I went to the alignment shop, I had them set the car to both street and track settings, and recorded the difference. All I do is reproduce those settings. On my car, that turns out to be 1.5 turns on the front dogbone, 3 turns on the rear dogbone, and 0.5 turns on the toe link. To make the adjustments, jack the rear, remove tires and put on jackstands.
Front: More work. Again, I use the two settings I got at the alignment shop as a guide, but it seems that on the front that always requires tweaking. I can get all of the camber adjustment I need just by adding shims to the GT3 control arms, so I leave the upper adjustment alone. Here's a step-by-step from street setting to track setting:
> Jack front and place and jackstands.
> Remove lower bolt on sway bar drop link.
> Street setting has no shims in control arm, track setting has 14mm. Loosen 2x10mm nuts on lower control arm, and back out almost all of the way to the end of the stud. 14mm is the maximum I can get into the arm.
> Place jack under one front wheel and lift it an inch or so, just to take the weight off of it. This makes it much easier to push open the control arm. I prefer not to pry on it, but admit to occasionally getting a little help from a long screwdriver cushioned by a piece of rubber.
> Drop in 7+3+2+2 mm shims. I insert the shims in alternate directions because that makes it easier to pry them apart on removal. You only need to get one out, and the rest are easy.
> Tighten the nuts on the control arm. Note that this is a PITA. You can only fit a box end 10mm wrench (no socket) and you get about 1/8 turn before having to move the wrench.
> Loosen 21mm jam nut on tie rod, and make tie rods longer using a 13mm open end wrench. For me, this is 9.75 turns as my baseline. It is surprisingly easy to lose count. Leave the jam nut loose.
> Raise the car, remove jackstands and lower car onto top of ramps. This is to adjust the swaybar, which must be done while the suspension is loaded. Adjust length of drop link so that the bar is in the lower 1/3 of the space between the control arm and the axle. The length needs to be adjusted until the bolt slides in and out easily to avoid pre-loading the suspension. Turn steering to full lock in both directions to be sure the bar doesn't rub the axle. Tighten drop links.
> Raise car, remove the ramps and lower car to the floor. Push the car back and forth 8-10 feet several times to get the suspension to resettle. I need to do this because I don't have those nice alignment plates.
> Measure toe, and adjust as needed. There is a little bit of art to this, since I don't have anything that measures toe on each side independently. First straighten the steering wheel. Measure the toe, and try to add equal amounts to both sides. Note that it is not easy to reach when your car is on the ground, and you can't see the tie rod, so you have to do it by feel. Probably much easier to do if you have those alignment plates, since they give you a little extra height. After adjusting, roll the car back and forth a couple of times again and recheck. Tighten the jam nuts hand tight.
> Drive the car. I set for 0 toe for the track, 1/16" total toe in for the street. My car always tracks straight on a flat road. Sometimes the steering wheel isn't centered. If not, return to the garage, remeasure the toe, and add from one side and subtract from the other the same amount to center the steering wheel. It seems that 1/4 turn on the tie rod on both sides changes the steering angle by about 5 degrees.
> Jack the car one more time, put it on the ramps, and tighten the jam nut.
Takes 1-2 hours. It helps to make a list of the tools you need so that you have everything within reach when you go under the car.
Drop links: 8mm allen, 17mm box, 3/4 open, 7/8 open
Control arm: 10mm open, screwdriver, rubber pad
Tie rods: 21mm open, 13mm open
It's really not so hard once you have done it a couple of times.
Jon
#3
01-03-2010 | 12:04 PM
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,934
From: ga
Rep Power: 551
Good stuff, I've been researching this as well as I HATE going to the alignment shop as the good ones are far away.
Check out this vid, this guys is pretty thorough. You can use floor tiles with salt or grease as turntables.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZoL1gaWedA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjcP0...eature=related
Check out this vid, this guys is pretty thorough. You can use floor tiles with salt or grease as turntables.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZoL1gaWedA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjcP0...eature=related
#4
01-03-2010 | 03:37 PM
Thanks, Dez!
That's a great idea to use the floor tiles and salt. I'll be doing that for sure next time. Also a very clever way to check the level on the garage floor. I'd go try it right now, except it's about 12 degrees, and I think it won't work if the water freezes in the tube.
Jon
That's a great idea to use the floor tiles and salt. I'll be doing that for sure next time. Also a very clever way to check the level on the garage floor. I'd go try it right now, except it's about 12 degrees, and I think it won't work if the water freezes in the tube.
Jon
#7
01-04-2010 | 06:47 PM
I wanted to remind everyone reading this that we are talking STOCK suspension here... Add coil overs and other adjustable components like GT2/3 control arms and Dogbones, thrust bushings and such, and you're talking needing scales and other equipment. So again, we're talking adjusting STOCK 996TT suspension for the initial post!
Mike
Mike
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#8
01-04-2010 | 07:25 PM
I wanted to remind everyone reading this that we are talking STOCK suspension here... Add coil overs and other adjustable components like GT2/3 control arms and Dogbones, thrust bushings and such, and you're talking needing scales and other equipment. So again, we're talking adjusting STOCK 996TT suspension for the initial post!
I don't know nuthin' about that Miss Scarlett!
#9
01-04-2010 | 07:40 PM
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,934
From: ga
Rep Power: 551
Actually I think the stock stuff may be harder to adjust. With the aftermarket pieces, it's twist and turn or put in shims. Obviously camber plates would be hard, but you can still do it if you mark your spots.
#10
01-04-2010 | 07:56 PM
Yes and no. The big difference there is if you don't understand this stuff, you just dig yourself into a deeper hole with all those "adjusters"!
With the stock stuff, you're limited to adjustment, but you're also limited to how deep that hole will be!
Mike
With the stock stuff, you're limited to adjustment, but you're also limited to how deep that hole will be!
Mike
#11
01-04-2010 | 08:22 PM
I agree with Dez on this one. I wouldn't advise anyone to try to adjust rear camber with the stock eccentrics without an alignment rack. There is a lot of interplay between the camber and toe adjustments too.
If you have to keep crawling under the car to adjust, then crawling back out to check, you might get in pretty good shape, but I doubt that you'd end up with a very good alignment.
Jon
If you have to keep crawling under the car to adjust, then crawling back out to check, you might get in pretty good shape, but I doubt that you'd end up with a very good alignment.
Jon
