DIY Brake pad disc change remove and replace
#31
11-25-2011 | 06:19 AM
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 147
From: houston,tx
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QUOTE
15- pop in spiders back into rear pad caliper pistons and push pistons all the way in so as to have space to slip pads in.
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I am in the process of changing pads and I am just about to insert the new pads, with the brake sensors attached, back into the re attached caliper.
One question, Did you add a small dab of high melting point grease or some kind of holding glue on spiders or the back of the new pad so they attach themselves to the new pads when the brake pedal is applied?
When I was removing the spiders from the old pads I noticed a couple of trace dabs of something. What I dont know. This was holding the spider back to the old pad as i pried them free with a wood chisel. By the way the pistons are slighly differant sized diameters the lower being larger than the upper piston in the caliper. Most trackers I believe dont bother to put the spiders back in place. I wouldnt like my work to scream out that it was done by a DIY bloke when I am braking. LOL
15- pop in spiders back into rear pad caliper pistons and push pistons all the way in so as to have space to slip pads in.
========================================
I am in the process of changing pads and I am just about to insert the new pads, with the brake sensors attached, back into the re attached caliper.
One question, Did you add a small dab of high melting point grease or some kind of holding glue on spiders or the back of the new pad so they attach themselves to the new pads when the brake pedal is applied?
When I was removing the spiders from the old pads I noticed a couple of trace dabs of something. What I dont know. This was holding the spider back to the old pad as i pried them free with a wood chisel. By the way the pistons are slighly differant sized diameters the lower being larger than the upper piston in the caliper. Most trackers I believe dont bother to put the spiders back in place. I wouldnt like my work to scream out that it was done by a DIY bloke when I am braking. LOL
#32
11-25-2011 | 06:51 AM
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 265
From: Ephrata PA USA
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Thanks to Smistry007 posting and great photos I was able to change my back brake pads and sensors in well less than 2 hours this morning. I didnt stick the spiders back onto the new pads but simly lay them back into the pistons with no goo on them. I checked out my front pads and they have lots of wear left on them so I didnt change them. I had no need to do any bleeding as i didnt mess with a bleed nipple anywhere. Anyone reading thinking of attempting the job. I am 70years of age and the job was a doddle to me. Front and back wheels both come off the ground together when I used a low profile jack on the REAR jacking point. My advice is 'go for it' it was as easy as falling off a log. Done a good test drive, no queaks, vibration or mushy brake pedal. I got my new OEM back and front break pads and 4 sensors (only one new sensor used and back brake pads) from Pelican Parts at $250.... SWEENY thanks for the advice. If they ever squeal, its an easy job for me to go in there again and add some anti squeal stuff. I have a feeling they may fuse themselves to the new pads when they warm up some as they were slightly tacky to the touch.
Last edited by Hurdigurdiman; 11-25-2011 at 07:19 AM.
#34
11-26-2011 | 10:28 AM
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Basically the same just be extremely careful not to ding the PCCB rotors. There is a step by step in the Porsche Maintenance manual which you can download from this site. I have it on my computer and it contains just about every procedure needed to work on these cars.
#36
05-11-2012 | 02:09 PM
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From: houston,tx
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On the back the pad would be easiest
#37
05-11-2012 | 10:00 PM
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 265
From: Ephrata PA USA
Rep Power: 24
I didn't use any anti squeal spray on mine. I have travelled 10000 miles since the change and no squealing and can stop on a dime.
#40
11-17-2013 | 07:12 AM
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 54
From: Atlanta
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I used this yesterday, very helpful. The clip on step 3 is tough to see but easily removed. All in all about 20 mins a side
A friend of mine reminded me to paint the center of rotor with high temp black. Keeps it look nice over time
A friend of mine reminded me to paint the center of rotor with high temp black. Keeps it look nice over time
#41
05-30-2014 | 09:05 AM
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 31
From: England
Rep Power: 15
I have a squeal coming from the back of my pads.
The pads have plenty on them so I'm thinking of using some anti squeal like Mintex Cera Tec.
Given the rear pads have 'spiders' do I just lube up the whole of the rear pad?
I thought the spiders were stuck to the rear of the pad with adhesive and this would obviously not work if anti squeal was applied.
Any help appreciated.
The pads have plenty on them so I'm thinking of using some anti squeal like Mintex Cera Tec.
Given the rear pads have 'spiders' do I just lube up the whole of the rear pad?
I thought the spiders were stuck to the rear of the pad with adhesive and this would obviously not work if anti squeal was applied.
Any help appreciated.
#42
05-12-2015 | 10:36 AM
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 43
From: California
Rep Power: 22
I followed this write-up last night and got the job done in a few hours. Many, many thanks for the great write-up and pics!. A few things I noted:
1) I was unable to compress the pistons using the harbor freight tool. I was able to do it, however, with 4 clamps. My process:. Remove caliper, pads and rotor. Mount caliper back using bolts, use c-clamps to compress pistons. Then removed caliper, mounted new rotor, mounted caliper and was able to put in backing plates (first) then pads. Totally easy.
2) After compressing 3 caliper's pistons my brake fluid reservoir (in front of car) was leaking. It was too full. I had to turkey baster it out. Once done with the full job and car was level I had to remove more to hit the "max" line.
3) I purchased Textar pads. Surprised the fronts didn't have the upper "*****" (looks like little weights) and the rears did (stock did not). The rears also had a lot more metal which is fine just note different than stock.
4) I got the mounting kits as well, probably not necessary unless you break something.
5) I got the new screws for the rotors - again probably not necessary.
6) I was able to reuse all 4 brake wear warning wires. No problem popping them out with a small flat head and reusing.
Once car is off jack/stands and flat, make sure you start and pump brakes. Check the reservoir! Pump brakes again to make sure the system has pressure BEFORE you drive.
1) I was unable to compress the pistons using the harbor freight tool. I was able to do it, however, with 4 clamps. My process:. Remove caliper, pads and rotor. Mount caliper back using bolts, use c-clamps to compress pistons. Then removed caliper, mounted new rotor, mounted caliper and was able to put in backing plates (first) then pads. Totally easy.
2) After compressing 3 caliper's pistons my brake fluid reservoir (in front of car) was leaking. It was too full. I had to turkey baster it out. Once done with the full job and car was level I had to remove more to hit the "max" line.
3) I purchased Textar pads. Surprised the fronts didn't have the upper "*****" (looks like little weights) and the rears did (stock did not). The rears also had a lot more metal which is fine just note different than stock.
4) I got the mounting kits as well, probably not necessary unless you break something.
5) I got the new screws for the rotors - again probably not necessary.
6) I was able to reuse all 4 brake wear warning wires. No problem popping them out with a small flat head and reusing.
Once car is off jack/stands and flat, make sure you start and pump brakes. Check the reservoir! Pump brakes again to make sure the system has pressure BEFORE you drive.
