DIY Brake pad disc change remove and replace
#46
06-22-2015 | 08:36 PM
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I've work on GTi lately and in fact the torque was 200 ft/lb ???? I was really surprised!!!
#47
10-24-2015 | 07:51 PM
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Raising a thread from the dead, smistry007 great write up, just wondering why you didn't mention anything about putting the front pad vibration dampers back in? Did you not put them back in?
And the rear pad spiders, which I assume do the same thing as the front pad vibration dampers, is this where you would normally apply brake pad grease to help them stick or is brake pad grease for something entirely different?
And the rear pad spiders, which I assume do the same thing as the front pad vibration dampers, is this where you would normally apply brake pad grease to help them stick or is brake pad grease for something entirely different?
#48
11-03-2015 | 01:37 PM
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Excellent post from the OP, as a new 996 C4S owner I appreciate it.
Question to the masses.
During my last track day session, my 2003 C4S check brake wear indicator warning came on, even though I must have at least 7-8mm of pad left.
Are these brake sensors "spent" once they trip and throw an error code, or are they simply grounding out against the rotor to indicate thinning pads? Or are they just frail and you need to handle them gently, otherwise why replace them?
On the C4S with the PSM management, can I safely still compress the caliper piston backwards? I've read in Waynes book that to bleed the brakes, there is a solenoid check valve in the brake line that needs to be activated with a OBDII controller. Is this needed only when bleeding the brakes, or can I just press back on the pistons as normally done?
I suppose now I need to take it to a holy shrine repair shop to reset the brake code on their OBDII unit, or can you reset it yourself at home?
Keep up all the great DIY articles, us noobs appreciate it.
Question to the masses.
During my last track day session, my 2003 C4S check brake wear indicator warning came on, even though I must have at least 7-8mm of pad left.
Are these brake sensors "spent" once they trip and throw an error code, or are they simply grounding out against the rotor to indicate thinning pads? Or are they just frail and you need to handle them gently, otherwise why replace them?
On the C4S with the PSM management, can I safely still compress the caliper piston backwards? I've read in Waynes book that to bleed the brakes, there is a solenoid check valve in the brake line that needs to be activated with a OBDII controller. Is this needed only when bleeding the brakes, or can I just press back on the pistons as normally done?
I suppose now I need to take it to a holy shrine repair shop to reset the brake code on their OBDII unit, or can you reset it yourself at home?
Keep up all the great DIY articles, us noobs appreciate it.
#49
11-03-2015 | 01:40 PM
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Lately this forum is more about showing off wheels, aftermarket glow in the dark special lucky LED lights, and springs than solid maintenance advice. Good luck getting your questions answered I've had a tonne that have faded off into the ether of page 2.
#50
11-03-2015 | 05:36 PM
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Excellent post from the OP, as a new 996 C4S owner I appreciate it.
Question to the masses.
During my last track day session, my 2003 C4S check brake wear indicator warning came on, even though I must have at least 7-8mm of pad left.
Are these brake sensors "spent" once they trip and throw an error code, or are they simply grounding out against the rotor to indicate thinning pads? Or are they just frail and you need to handle them gently, otherwise why replace them?
On the C4S with the PSM management, can I safely still compress the caliper piston backwards? I've read in Waynes book that to bleed the brakes, there is a solenoid check valve in the brake line that needs to be activated with a OBDII controller. Is this needed only when bleeding the brakes, or can I just press back on the pistons as normally done?
I suppose now I need to take it to a holy shrine repair shop to reset the brake code on their OBDII unit, or can you reset it yourself at home?
Keep up all the great DIY articles, us noobs appreciate it.
Question to the masses.
During my last track day session, my 2003 C4S check brake wear indicator warning came on, even though I must have at least 7-8mm of pad left.
Are these brake sensors "spent" once they trip and throw an error code, or are they simply grounding out against the rotor to indicate thinning pads? Or are they just frail and you need to handle them gently, otherwise why replace them?
On the C4S with the PSM management, can I safely still compress the caliper piston backwards? I've read in Waynes book that to bleed the brakes, there is a solenoid check valve in the brake line that needs to be activated with a OBDII controller. Is this needed only when bleeding the brakes, or can I just press back on the pistons as normally done?
I suppose now I need to take it to a holy shrine repair shop to reset the brake code on their OBDII unit, or can you reset it yourself at home?
Keep up all the great DIY articles, us noobs appreciate it.
you can compress the pistons with no issues. just watch the reservoir as you will likely overflow it. lastly i would try disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes or so before paying the dealer to reset the light
Last edited by 32krazy!; 11-03-2015 at 06:04 PM.
#51
11-03-2015 | 05:48 PM
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I'm sorry but I disagree. Basic questions are most of the time answered.... I feel this forum, Renntech and Reenlist are very valuable for proper TT maintenance and of cours DIY....
Last edited by jpflip; 11-03-2015 at 05:50 PM.
#52
11-03-2015 | 05:50 PM
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If you did not empty the brake system completely, the bleeding can be done normally just by pressurizing the reservoir and opening the bleed screw in the proper order.... If you have a complete empty system you need to energized the booster pump...
You should get the real TT repair manual here: post#106
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...manuals-8.html
You should get the real TT repair manual here: post#106
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...manuals-8.html
#53
11-03-2015 | 06:04 PM
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grins.
Cheers, Santa can come early for you, I mean a pair of them for $5. And 600 lumens is actually pretty damnnn bright.
actually with discrete placement, these could illuminate dark areas or engine bay lighting with different color or clear LEDs strips
in a non-icky-tacky way please. No backlighting your red brake calipers, that's grounds for losing your man card.
http://www.banggood.com/Pair-17cm-Wa...p-1000190.html
Last edited by Rusty Heap; 11-03-2015 at 06:08 PM.
#54
11-03-2015 | 06:05 PM
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Raising a thread from the dead, smistry007 great write up, just wondering why you didn't mention anything about putting the front pad vibration dampers back in? Did you not put them back in?
And the rear pad spiders, which I assume do the same thing as the front pad vibration dampers, is this where you would normally apply brake pad grease to help them stick or is brake pad grease for something entirely different?
And the rear pad spiders, which I assume do the same thing as the front pad vibration dampers, is this where you would normally apply brake pad grease to help them stick or is brake pad grease for something entirely different?
^^ I guess this question was too hard for you?
#55
11-03-2015 | 06:17 PM
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In the spirit of keeping the forum informative, I'll share a few tips I've gleaned doing this for the past few years:
- You don't need to (and don't want to, see below) take off the calipers to change pads. Use a putty knife or similar to break the vibration dampers free from the backs of the OEM pads, then you can remove them after the pads are out. Leave them out for the track, and replace when you reinstall your street pads. I've never had any issues this way, no noise and no messy grease required.
- If you track the car, tie off the wear sensors with zip ties. They WILL burn up on you and trigger the pad light. Hopefully if you are tracking you are closely monitoring pad wear visually!
- If you do need to take off the calipers, usually to replace rotors, be very careful torquing the caliper bolts to the recommended 63 ft-lb into the wheel carriers. They will strip out the aluminum threads on the carriers very easily. If/when they strip anyway, you can install timeserts in lieu of the very expensive wheel carrier replacement. Another option is to get caliper mounting studs that, if you can torque into the carrier successfully once, should eliminate the thread stripping problem thereafter.
#56
11-03-2015 | 06:21 PM
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In the spirit of keeping the forum informative, I'll share a few tips I've gleaned doing this for the past few years:
- You don't need to (and don't want to, see below) take off the calipers to change pads. Use a putty knife or similar to break the vibration dampers free from the backs of the OEM pads, then you can remove them after the pads are out. Leave them out for the track, and replace when you reinstall your street pads. I've never had any issues this way, no noise and no messy grease required.
- If you track the car, tie off the wear sensors with zip ties. They WILL burn up on you and trigger the pad light. Hopefully if you are tracking you are closely monitoring pad wear visually!
- If you do need to take off the calipers, usually to replace rotors, be very careful torquing the caliper bolts to the recommended 63 ft-lb into the wheel carriers. They will strip out the aluminum threads on the carriers very easily. If/when they strip anyway, you can install timeserts in lieu of the very expensive wheel carrier replacement. Another option is to get caliper mounting studs that, if you can torque into the carrier successfully once, should eliminate the thread stripping problem thereafter.
#57
11-03-2015 | 06:28 PM
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When I don't have the answer, and this happen often, instead of guessing I just give other people the chance to answer....Remember we do that voluntarily, just to help other TT owners because we respect them!
I remember a Porsche a note mentioning not to use any grease on bake pad. I do not replace the damper every single time but with a knife I gently take them off and just put them back in and the glue left on them eventually, with heat, stick back on the pad......
I think I'm getting old
I remember a Porsche a note mentioning not to use any grease on bake pad. I do not replace the damper every single time but with a knife I gently take them off and just put them back in and the glue left on them eventually, with heat, stick back on the pad......
I think I'm getting old
#59
11-03-2015 | 06:31 PM
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,807
From: Montreal Canada
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In the spirit of keeping the forum informative, I'll share a few tips I've gleaned doing this for the past few years:
- You don't need to (and don't want to, see below) take off the calipers to change pads. Use a putty knife or similar to break the vibration dampers free from the backs of the OEM pads, then you can remove them after the pads are out. Leave them out for the track, and replace when you reinstall your street pads. I've never had any issues this way, no noise and no messy grease required.
- If you track the car, tie off the wear sensors with zip ties. They WILL burn up on you and trigger the pad light. Hopefully if you are tracking you are closely monitoring pad wear visually!
- If you do need to take off the calipers, usually to replace rotors, be very careful torquing the caliper bolts to the recommended 63 ft-lb into the wheel carriers. They will strip out the aluminum threads on the carriers very easily. If/when they strip anyway, you can install timeserts in lieu of the very expensive wheel carrier replacement. Another option is to get caliper mounting studs that, if you can torque into the carrier successfully once, should eliminate the thread stripping problem thereafter.
Very good info
