When are you going to show the GT3 seats from the 997!

 

OEM 997 Key:

• Part number's in the pic.
• The key pulls apart, just do it gently, working around the seam with a small flat head or finger nail.
• Guts are reused, make sure you swap the greenish/blue capsule looking thing as well, other wise the car wont' start. Dont break or loose it.
• The mechanism that holds the key bit in is spring loaded. slides and locks right into the new shell.
• the "911" bit lights up when button's pressed

 

wasn't going to post this mod here cos i posted it already independently. The wiring is tricky but there's no need for a special harness or pin connector. people know what those seats look like, but i can post pics if there's requests.

and dan thanks again for helping me transact and ship those seats over.

BTW most if not all the mods on this car, other then some second hand parts were sourced through Vivid Racing. Modding cars is a "habit" I hope to break and Dan's a very good "crack" dealer ... I mean salesman.

Vivid Racing team and Dan's been stand up. They go the distance. Their product range, support, and online capabilities provide a one stop shop, which adds value for overseas customers like myself.

(Other vendors and forum members have also been very helpful. Thank you.)

 

post a link to the seats then here at least.

 

Went with the gt3 6pot up front, and the 4pot in rear. Front and rear rotor diameter 15". Basically the full Brembo GT kit.

Sourced the front set 2nd hand. Came off a 997 C4. No mods, no fabbing, bolted right on.

Again, one or more step by step posts on how to change calipers/rotors so won't get into that.

• didn't opt to install the brake pad sensors because requires wiring, and when sensors are triggered, they need to be replaced. Will need to monitor pad wear manually, which isn't a bad habit to have.
• If sensors aren't installed, they can be zip tied neatly away. Make sure the car's turning and suspension travel is provisioned for. wrapped the sensor ends in that wire heat shrink insulation stuff for good measure.
• Make sure to follow the break in and bedding procedures to avoid brake shudder.
• Kit comes with a detailed manual.

Review:

• BRaking is balanced is greatly improved over stock both in feel and outright stopping power.
• Braking balanced unaffected. Not sure how these would perform on tracks where hard braking is required but more than sufficient for avg. semi-law-abiding street driver.
• Brembo packaging is second to none.

 

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...996tt-diy.html

 

NR Techart style front bumper:

• bumper, 2 side inner side ducts, 1 inner center duct, center wire mesh screen, eurethene front lip (key decision for me), at request deleted side air vents, top vent seperate piece to bumper.
• Over all fit and quality was pretty good for a FRP bumper. I've gone through many.
• Center-Duct - used the OEM shroud alum bracket top side of radiator as is. drilled holes on bottom of NR duct to match holes on the under side alum bracket. Used stainless steal wire these together to the radiator. 1) to replace the stock rivets and 2) because it allows the shroud some range of movement.
• Side ducts - OEM ducts are a soft rubber. the NR units are FRP. They didn't fit on the radiators flush and quite a bit of massaging and cutting was required.
• 3 ducts - need to fit perfectly because the rear side of the bumper slides into place. When the kit is on properly, the rearside of the bumper is inserted into the ducts.
• Turn signals - the bit where the two hooks slide in front side, the bumper needs to be shaved a bit in this location in order for the bumper to slide into place. Refer to the OEM bumper as a guide.
• All holes need to be drilled.
• sensor in front of bumper was zip tied to the brake duct inlets, two holes drilled in location.
• the side ducts come with 3 plastic diffusers but these got in the way of the bumper and lateral bar in the side duct of the bumper (option) and thus removed.
• I found the bumper fit better when the portion between the headlights hung ontop of the bracket versus slide into the grove as the OEM piece does.
• Didn't change ride height from stock but the lip brings the front end much further out from the pivot point so beware of this.
• NOte there might be a better way of installing this bumper. I am not a proffessional.

Mashaw GT2 style trunklid for use with Cup wing:

• This is the turbo version cup wing.
• depending on what i can get away with (local enforcement) might just leave it as is, i sort of like it, robotic retro duck tail look, we'll see... vs the stock wing, this one as is aids in bringing out the turbo fender flares. (why doesnt porsche make turbo flares like they used to?)
• Extra inlets make a difference, I can see on the IAT readings.
• this particular decklid didn't fit so well. The left side gaps are bigger than they are on the left, at best fit. Tried adjusting the brackets as well as lid position.
• no drilling required. threaded metal inserts provided.
• Got the 996gt3RS wing ends and the FRP wing to color match to body. Prefer the standard wing ends but these look more OEM, just for the "heat" when they got nothing else better to do than bust "ricers" like me.
• Had the whole set fitted on but didn't look right, will modify the wingstays to something similar to the 997 techart GT wingstays, whcih move the wing forward. if anyone else is interested in this wingstay, i could make a production run, will update with photos with prototype first.
• Decklid came with carbon lining, wire harness (deletes hydros/related warning light issues), OEM trunk bump stops, all fixtures.
• The wire harness had reversed polarity such that the fan blew out. Easy to change, just take apart the connector, pull the pins out and swap them.
• Fan bolts right in. No clearance issues with Y pipe.
• The underside is a different shape than the OEM decklid so will need to modify the second snorkel to fit the dual AP intake later. SHould fit with some cutting.
• This decklid deletes the snorkel found on OEM 996ts (dont know if this is how all gt2 decklids are designed) and instead, there's a larger volume in the cavity of the lid istelf where the hole inlet adjoining to the airbox is instead located. A plastic piece is provided so the padding from the OEM snorkel can be transfered.
• No provisions for brake light bracket. It's held in by the plastic locking mechanism only.
• holes on underside of lid provided for water to escape.
• The rubber strip located at inner base of lid is not transfered.
• no mesh provided for the side inlet holes and FRP finishing inside is unsightly. will paint matte black and call it a day. backside of carbon lining is unfinished, and visible through deck lid vents, solution is to paint it matte black.
• Cup wing with reinforced metal wing stay bracket fused into wing, real sturdy.

Brake light:

• fitted the smoked LED brakelight sold from vivid's website.
• No cracks but the rubber gasket sits about 1mm out , as opposed to flush.

Stock under skirts of both OEM side skirts and bumper color matched to body color.

Craft Square JGTC style mirrors:




http://www.craftsquare.co.jp/tc_top.html

• High quality, manual adjustment
• interior triangle piece (where mirror control is located) slides upwards to remove.
• 3 bolts inside, one is hidden under the rain strip
• electric mirror harness pulls out (gently)

Laminex lens covers:

• comes in variety of colors - take note of whats legal and whats not in your area.
• 3M material
• pre-cut which makes things easier because of the headlight washer.
• used a heat gun, not that easy to DIY unless familiar with window tinting procedures.
• Material is forgiving ("self healing membrane"), and good set of instructions. Spray bottle and squeegie included in kit.

 

None of these parts were installed by myself.


AP Short Shift Kit:

• Was apprehensive at first but pleasantly suprised
• Stiff at first, took tank and half of gas to break in. Now shifts like how I think a car of this caliber should shift.
• Good to share labor with clutch job.

Evoms slave conversion:

• One of my favorite mods
• hated the stock pentosin system
• clutch effort and clutch feel greatly increased
• Good to share labor with clutch job

Quaife LSD:

• Good street LSD, occasional leisure track use
• no good if tire lifts
• quiet, hardly any noise (shimming skills matter)
• Good to share labor with clutch job

Millers transmission oil


Clutch Masters fiber tough Clutch:

• hard to say if it drives like stock because slave conversion was done
• but grips well for this car's power level
• contact is smooth unlike puck style clutches, for example can start in first on slight decline with out using gas pedal.
• significant break in period
• Contact point 70-80% distance from full depression

Aasco LWFW:

• Not as loud as I expected versus some of the JDM units
• honestly didnt feel much difference in rev response or added benefits in heal shifts but i like the noise
• avoids having to resurface the dual mass OEM unit (dont think the OEM FW is resurfaceable)
• makes more noise with AC on.

vivid racing suspension menu:

KW V3:

• Bit more of track day damper than street. perhaps a lower spring rate would probably suit the road conditions here better.
• ride height, same as stock
• AP sway bar ends/H&R sway bars
• Vivid's alignment spec