Crap - I just got the flashing check engine light...
#31
02-12-2010, 02:57 PM
Perhaps... it may be a timing issue but it's strange that one cylinder is isolated.
This seems more like a problem with the valve or lifter itself.
I was also really hoping this would be more along the lines of an electrical or sensor issue... but I don't think I'm in luck this time.
Makes me wonder if I should look at extended warranty options. Not entirely sure how that works for a California car with 58,000 Km's that's been imported to Canada.
-Chris
This seems more like a problem with the valve or lifter itself.
I was also really hoping this would be more along the lines of an electrical or sensor issue... but I don't think I'm in luck this time.
Makes me wonder if I should look at extended warranty options. Not entirely sure how that works for a California car with 58,000 Km's that's been imported to Canada.
-Chris
#32
02-12-2010, 03:18 PM
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Victoria BC
Age: 40
Posts: 99
Rep Power: 18 
Definitely, I agree.
I actually just sent my mechanic the link to this thread so he can consider these suggestions.
The last thing I want to be into is a teardown.
-Chris
I actually just sent my mechanic the link to this thread so he can consider these suggestions.
The last thing I want to be into is a teardown.
-Chris
#33
02-13-2010, 01:47 AM
Still getting misfire code on Cyl 2.
1) The cat on the left side of the car (the one that's connected to cyl2) gets WAY hotter than the other one, which suggests a sticky valve.
When misfire, Cat will try to clean it. So it is way hotter. I once saw Cat turn red/burnt surrounding and nearly made car catch on fire due to severe misfire. Be careful.
2) Flames literally shoot out the left exhaust pipe when revved
Unburn gas from misfire combust in exhaust.
3) Only acts up when the engine passes 3K RPM or so.
If that rpm near switching point of VarioCams, you might have to look if VarioCams work properly.
BTW: also check compression on 2# compare to others.
1) The cat on the left side of the car (the one that's connected to cyl2) gets WAY hotter than the other one, which suggests a sticky valve.
When misfire, Cat will try to clean it. So it is way hotter. I once saw Cat turn red/burnt surrounding and nearly made car catch on fire due to severe misfire. Be careful.
2) Flames literally shoot out the left exhaust pipe when revved
Unburn gas from misfire combust in exhaust.
3) Only acts up when the engine passes 3K RPM or so.
If that rpm near switching point of VarioCams, you might have to look if VarioCams work properly.
BTW: also check compression on 2# compare to others.
#34
02-13-2010, 06:36 AM
UPDATE:
--------
Had it in to the shop first thing this AM.
As we suspected, misfire code... but that's the least of the problems.
Turns out my sport headers on both sides were cracked at the weld joint. Having them repaired at a machine shop for now. The loss in boost may have caused a difference in pressure between the cylinders, which could account for a blown coil/plug.
My mechanic thinks the issue is from a possible bottom-out on the rear end, since he discovered the rear exhaust pipe (tip, right side) was about 1/2" higher than the left one.
I'm always very careful to baby the car when entering/leaving ramps and so on, but perhaps I may have even slightly nicked it recently...
Regardless, looks like this one's gonna run up the money tree.
Might as well have had the turbos implode.
I'll let you know what the actual damage is once this is all sorted out.
Thanks for all the help... this forum is awesome.
Cheers,
-Chris
--------
Had it in to the shop first thing this AM.
As we suspected, misfire code... but that's the least of the problems.
Turns out my sport headers on both sides were cracked at the weld joint. Having them repaired at a machine shop for now. The loss in boost may have caused a difference in pressure between the cylinders, which could account for a blown coil/plug.
My mechanic thinks the issue is from a possible bottom-out on the rear end, since he discovered the rear exhaust pipe (tip, right side) was about 1/2" higher than the left one.
I'm always very careful to baby the car when entering/leaving ramps and so on, but perhaps I may have even slightly nicked it recently...
Regardless, looks like this one's gonna run up the money tree.
Might as well have had the turbos implode.
I'll let you know what the actual damage is once this is all sorted out.
Thanks for all the help... this forum is awesome.
Cheers,
-Chris
Before you take anything apart, try resetting variocams in durametric or similar tool. It worked for me.
#35
02-13-2010, 10:02 AM
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Victoria BC
Age: 40
Posts: 99
Rep Power: 18 We're gonna do a series of tests and exhaust every possible option we can think of before anyone starts turning wrenches...
Thanks guys
-Chris
#36
05-26-2010, 02:59 PM
As mentioned above flashing CEL frequently means misfires in one or more cylinders. Most common cause is plugs or coils. Also can be MAF. I had this problem with additional misfire codes in cyl 4,5, and 6. Turned out variocam needed reseting. I did that with Durametric and have had no more trouble. Its most likely coils in your case. I would not worry to much about it at this point...
How did you reset the Variocam with your Durametric? I'm having the same problem with a flashing CEL at full boost (I changed my coil packs and spark plugs last weekend). The code that comes up is P0300 - Fault code 507 - misfire detection.
#37
05-27-2010, 11:55 AM
The last time I got the CEL blinking light of death, it was a vacuum leak. You may have popped a hose of somewhere, take a quick look around and underneath, might be obvious. Check turob hoses, DV's and all vacuum hoses you can see. I popped one off right to the left of the throttle body. Had to take intake and throttle body off the put it back on and ziptie it.
#38
08-17-2010, 02:40 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Peabody, Massachusetts
Posts: 321
Rep Power: 30 
#40
09-22-2010, 12:27 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Peabody, Massachusetts
Posts: 321
Rep Power: 30
Dealership says my cam's aren't actuating/lifting correctly on bank 1? I had a flashing CEL. I brought it to them AUG 1st, and it's now Sept 22nd. They took the engine out, and apart, not sure they know what the issue is. Car has been at the dealership for almost 2 months now. Hoping warranty covers the issue. That's more important than a quick fix.
#42
10-07-2010, 12:14 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Peabody, Massachusetts
Posts: 321
Rep Power: 30
Car was at the dealership for exactly 60 days. Problem was traced back to a metal strap on top of the cam cover that holds a solenoid in place that was loose. Strap was broken/missing, causing the solenoid to be loose. Tech said he had never seen anything like it in 30 years of Porsche service. 55 hours of labor including engine removal to resolve. All except $450 for spark plugs and some other minor stuff was covered by my warranty. Car is minty fresh once again.
#44
10-07-2010, 07:09 PM
Car was at the dealership for exactly 60 days. Problem was traced back to a metal strap on top of the cam cover that holds a solenoid in place that was loose. Strap was broken/missing, causing the solenoid to be loose. Tech said he had never seen anything like it in 30 years of Porsche service. 55 hours of labor including engine removal to resolve. All except $450 for spark plugs and some other minor stuff was covered by my warranty. Car is minty fresh once again.