Wow. Now that is what I call standing behind your product. Bravo. But Mike can sell it to me as "used" with a discount.

 

Is your Carbon LSD a 1.5 or 2.0?

 

Matt does the Carbonetics unit require frequent oil changes?

 

From their website - 1870miles

http://www.carbonetic.net/tech/pdfs/Carbon_LSD.pdf

 

I'm no engineer but it seems to me this Carbonics unit would be more prone to wear and need more frequent maintenance than one with metal clutch plates. I'll be interested in seeing the longevity of these parts. Any thoughts? Any longevity info from Carbonics?

 

Agree... do not think there is any issues with the unit (Matt & Erik might know more), but my understanding is it needs more than regular maintenance... I know the OP did not have a LSD in the first place, but I have heard of the odd one or two ditching their stock diffs (GT2/GT3) for the Carbonetics unit which does not make any sense whatsoever, the stock units overhauled and replaced with Cup plates are fantastic and I know both Matt & Erik will do this.

 

How different are the GT2 and GT3 LSD's and how much is it to rebuild them with Cup Plates or other upgraded plates?

I'm looking into the best route to getting one. Buy a Used GT2 or GT3 diff and upgrade or buy a new OS Giken diff, those are my two choices.

 

Hello,
To be honest I can't tell you much about the Caronetics product because in the all the years I've been in this business I've never been involved in the installation of one and never seen inside of a gearbox that had been running one.

However, if it's anything like the old 993 factory LSD that used carbon plates it's probably a dirty filthy mess inside. People used to talk about the mess our old plate design (discontinued and redesigned 3-4 years ago) used to leave inside of a box. The factory carbon plates are way worse.

But really I don't know if that's all that relevant. Oil change intervals are something that I have found tend to be sorely neglected and overlooked by the owners of these cars. I don't know what they are listing as the factory interval these days. I don't even pay attention to it. I tell my customers that the way they use their cars puts them outside the parameters of the factory suggestions.

We drive these cars hard. Sure, Porsche intended them as sports cars, but people who are changing gear ratios and playing around with LSDs are going a step further. I tell my customers to change their gearbox oil once a year or around every 10,000 miles, whichever comes first.

Furthermore, if the car is raced (even DE events and open lapping days) it needs it more often. I don't race much outside of auto-x and rally-x. I probably participate in 3-4 lapping events a year. My personal gearboxes generally see changes twice a year. However, let's make the example of the recent 48 hours of Sebring PCA event. That weekend had 2 sprints, a night race, and a 1.5 hour enduro. There were a bunch of people who ran three or all four of those events. I would hope that every single one of them who did changed their gear oil when they got home. This is regardless of gear oil brand. This is regardless of open diff or LSD and regardless of LSD brand.

 

If you are shopping for a used factory LSD, then the 996 variants tend to be the better value. This is because they already have the 40/60 ramps in them. The 997's went to a lower lock up and steeper ramps (28/40 IIRC). They really don't give you anywhere near as much bite and pretty much every single 997 LSD I've rebuilt, we've installed our ramps into the unit. That's a savings of $725 if you don't have to install those parts to get the performance you desire.

However, you do need to know that the 996 LSD's are the ones that some people have had issues with the bodies cracking. So, while it's not every single one, if you are racing your car, it's something that you are risking having it break somewhere down the line.

Beyond that, our cost to rebuild the LSD for you as a 4 plate configuration, using our parts, is $900, parts and labor, including return freight in the lower 48. You pay the labor to ship it to us. Also, if you don't remove the ring gear prior to shipment, there's an extra $50 in labor to R&R that part.

If you are getting ready to do this, drop me a line. Often when someone replaces their factory LSD with one of our billet units, we'll buy their stock one as a core and rebuild it. I give the customer a $600 core credit, and when I resell it, it goes out at $1500. Basically, I don't mark up the core, and just add on the price of the rebuild. I don't have anything right now, but inventories change constantly.

Regards,

Matt

 

Matt, if I were to buy one of your new billet units for my 2002 996TT, what kind of longevity am I looking at? I do 6 or 7 DE's per season. Please PM me the price for the 60/40 unit.

 

I went for 1.5 to start as I don't believe a 2-way will be ideal for the 996 Turbo which has a rear end coming around pretty well anyway (EDIT: going into turns). So when I can get 100% lock on accel, it will only give up to 50% lock on decel, which imo worked very well.

 

What does the 2.0 do differently.

I'm all for more back end action in the corners in a TT. Too much push. Understeer is a lot harder to dial out than oversteer.

 

One point for me choosing a carbon plate LSB is that the lifespan is tested to be 70 times longer than for a regular metal plate LSD. Even if those would be perfected numbers, even 10 times the lifespan would be a huge improvement.
http://www.carbonetic.net/products/lsd_detail.html

My personal feeling is also that each disc isn't subjected to the stress of any diff with fewer plates, that could grealy increase lifetime.

My favorite feature though is the low initial force needed at the engagement point, it makes this LSD very gentle to drive with which is ideal when getting back on throttle when I'm already very near full lateral load.

And no chattering going for groceries.

Oil changes:
- During break-in it is as described in the manual, you will have to change oil after first 20-25 minutes of figure 8s, however I was recommended to actually do it twice since I was heading straight to track, just to get maximum lifespan on it. If you are just planning to do street I guess the 20 minutes of figure 8s are ok to do once, then follow the regular intervals as posted above, 3000km (1860miles).

Oil after first break in is pretty dirty.
After 2nd figure 8s, not very dirty, but since I was headed to track it was worth spending a few bucks on oil. Now I'm making one more change after my 1st track day on it, to really have clean oil before start of Redline season.

Then, having several track events planned, I'll be looking at changing oil in June and December.

 

Think I posted this link recently https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...sd-buster.html ... a lot of great info here, that will help!

 

Haha then you should drive my car lol

The 2-way ramp concerns deceleration and will move the force during engine braking to the outer wheel up to 100% of the diff's locking capacity. The 1.5-way ramp will only lock up to 50% of the diff locking capacity on deceleration.

The ramp inside the diff pumpkin can be swapped to have 1-way, 2-way or 1.5-way function.