Best platform for a drag car?
#46
So lets see if I have all of this straight: Jamie talks smack about me and my "wrecked car" for three and a half years. According to him I am full of misinformation and know nothing about how to make these cars fast. My car has a low level Vivid Turbo kit on it that at best makes mid level power. The rest of my mods (each one of which were carefully selected after much research by me) are a "thrown together "birds nest" Frankenstein concoction of parts. My apparel is "gay."
He adds all these factors up and decides to sandbag me by challenging me unexpectedly to a race and brings along a camera crew to film it. He then loses and wines and makes excuses about it.
My favorite one is "we could of turned up the boost." No you couldn't Jamie. The car, which you commissioned, only has 60 lb injectors. You decided when building it to go with slightly larger turboes and smaller injectors. I went with 83 lb injectors and thus am actually the one with the viable option of turning up the boost (and each .1 bars DOES make 35 lbs....I could go .2 higher and would have if I knew I was racing you, and not Eric as was the original agreement).
#47
If I were to get into drag racing I would consider that breaking parts is going to be inevitable. That said I think replacing a Ford part would be substantially cheaper than a Porsche part. I'd listen to the guys who've been there, done that and go with either a Mustang or Supra although I've always liked the Grand Nationals too.
#48
03-04 Cobra.
Even the newer cobras can be made to go really fast:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5KMxv-lu_Wk
Even the newer cobras can be made to go really fast:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5KMxv-lu_Wk
#49
Outside of the supercharged Cobra mustangs, the F-body GMs make a better stock, drag racing platform than the NA mustangs, at a minum due to the larger LSX motors. At any rate, based on casual observation, there seem to be more fast F-bodys than mustangs around...
#50
Maybe you should get some leather gloves with some big spikes, it will make your ***** bigger, and you will go faster. This is a fact.
#51
Ok thats it, I kinda look like a big Don King so I am going to organize a boxing match between you two. I don't know you guys so someone please tell me who I should bet on! And the boxing gloves will be too fluffy to really hurt anyone!
#52
Not if we go with 12 ouncers
#55
It's about time. We all knew it'd happen eventually. Are you going with a nomex straight jacket J/k I'm with most people here, go with a fox body mustang. But even though they're lighter, I can't stand the look of the notch backs, I'd have to go with the hatch. Don't forget to get yourself a Vanilla Ice cd to bump along the way.
#58
How about something like the Chevelle half way down this page https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...rbo-lq9-3.html It ran 8's apparently and with a bit of work look nice. You may as well go something american as they would be readily available and cheap. Having said that a S2000 or 240sx with 2JZ auto combo would be badass.
#60
240SX, fragile R200 rear, S2K - also fragile and short wheelbase plus a convertible. If you want to get goofy like this do a 1st gen RX7 - the 2JZ fits with some work as does the Buick GN V6. The 240-280ZX is also a little nutty but the V8 swap is WELL documented (and dirt easy) and the 2JZ also fits.
Mustang hatch - not as stiff as the coupe. Old Nova, Chevelle, whatever G-body... fine but finding one in good shape might be tough. The GM Camaros etc. aren't bad but find one with a hardtop not T-tops.
He said he wanted the best not the craziest so be practical. That means a decent chassis with some parts from the factory that don't have to be torched off right away, an engine bay you can work in, and enough made you won't kill a classic - or pay like you're buying one. Whacky engine swaps are fun but much less fun when stuff breaks or you need one off parts...
Mustang hatch - not as stiff as the coupe. Old Nova, Chevelle, whatever G-body... fine but finding one in good shape might be tough. The GM Camaros etc. aren't bad but find one with a hardtop not T-tops.
He said he wanted the best not the craziest so be practical. That means a decent chassis with some parts from the factory that don't have to be torched off right away, an engine bay you can work in, and enough made you won't kill a classic - or pay like you're buying one. Whacky engine swaps are fun but much less fun when stuff breaks or you need one off parts...