Clutch toast... going in for upgrades and mods.. what else should I do?
#31
I was going to get this but then realized why not just put that money toward a push through MAF setup... it breathes much better...? If this is as good of a setup as people say, why doesn't everyone go this route?
I also have the sachs stage 3 kit w/ lwfw through BBi and love it!
I also have the sachs stage 3 kit w/ lwfw through BBi and love it!
As for why not... price is a big one (which gives me pause!), and you lose some of the ducting to the intercooler. Some have complained about dirt thrown up on the intercooler and filter too but I believe that this can be solved with proper fitting and sealing. You may also run into tire clearance issues with crazy wide tires. Other than that I see no issues with doing it personally - I think it's the way to go myself but then I've not yet done it either.
Now - what else to do? How about maybe swapping any cooling hoses that might be worn? Tranny fluid service? Is the motor coming out? If so weld the glued in cooling fittings! Can't think of anything else....
#32
I was going to get this but then realized why not just put that money toward a push through MAF setup... it breathes much better...? If this is as good of a setup as people say, why doesn't everyone go this route?
I also have the sachs stage 3 kit w/ lwfw through BBi and love it!
I also have the sachs stage 3 kit w/ lwfw through BBi and love it!
I'm with you on this. $895 still busts my *****. I'm not yet sure what a blow-thru will run but I know that you have to include a tune in it which will drive the price right up. However I think it will breathe WAY better. Maybe not needed depending on power level but it's far shorter tubing and a good size. I will do intercoolers and obviously the Y-pipe comes along too. Afterwards I'll do a TB and plenum but likely not right away as I'll be poor enough!
As for why not... price is a big one (which gives me pause!), and you lose some of the ducting to the intercooler. Some have complained about dirt thrown up on the intercooler and filter too but I believe that this can be solved with proper fitting and sealing. You may also run into tire clearance issues with crazy wide tires. Other than that I see no issues with doing it personally - I think it's the way to go myself but then I've not yet done it either.
Now - what else to do? How about maybe swapping any cooling hoses that might be worn? Tranny fluid service? Is the motor coming out? If so weld the glued in cooling fittings! Can't think of anything else....
As for why not... price is a big one (which gives me pause!), and you lose some of the ducting to the intercooler. Some have complained about dirt thrown up on the intercooler and filter too but I believe that this can be solved with proper fitting and sealing. You may also run into tire clearance issues with crazy wide tires. Other than that I see no issues with doing it personally - I think it's the way to go myself but then I've not yet done it either.
Now - what else to do? How about maybe swapping any cooling hoses that might be worn? Tranny fluid service? Is the motor coming out? If so weld the glued in cooling fittings! Can't think of anything else....
#33
There's nothing wrong with a Ford MAF, they're tough as nails and in this application can meter FAR more airflow than the OEM MAF. The OEM MAF runs out of airflow and when this happens it has to be tuned around much like a MAP system from what I gather. The OEM MAF will also blow much more easily when it's being hit with full voltage trying to meter max airflow.
As to making less HP when switching to a less restrictive air inlet system - I cannot explain that but I'd be looking for another issue on the car like a vac\boost leak. Exposed filters can be an issue, I freely admit that but it's not like they're hanging out where someone can see them to mess with them.
Upgrading the OEM style piping isn't a bad way to go at all and this is the perfect time for you to do it. I just find the cost still steep and think shorter pipes can flow more is all. Bigger isn't always better though so if this flows enough air for you and you don't pop MAF like flashbulbs go for it! It'll actually be very interesting to hear your driving impressions after the upgrade and any power changes you can document. I have little doubt that it will be noticable!
As to making less HP when switching to a less restrictive air inlet system - I cannot explain that but I'd be looking for another issue on the car like a vac\boost leak. Exposed filters can be an issue, I freely admit that but it's not like they're hanging out where someone can see them to mess with them.
Upgrading the OEM style piping isn't a bad way to go at all and this is the perfect time for you to do it. I just find the cost still steep and think shorter pipes can flow more is all. Bigger isn't always better though so if this flows enough air for you and you don't pop MAF like flashbulbs go for it! It'll actually be very interesting to hear your driving impressions after the upgrade and any power changes you can document. I have little doubt that it will be noticable!
#34
I have heard from several people that the push through Ford MAF conversion gives up a lot in day to day off bost driveability.
The last I want is car that spits, lurches and bucks...
The last I want is car that spits, lurches and bucks...
Last edited by Turbo Fanatic; 03-24-2010 at 07:47 PM.
#35
I have direct experience with a few topics in this thread and will share my experience.
1) Clutch
I purchased this exact same pressure plate with a new GT2 disc from Todd when I did my K24/18G's several years ago. It feels and works fantastic, just like stock. I loved it, but it started slipping in less than 6 months. I had to do a clutch job again in less than a year. The second time I sent the pressure plate to clutchmasters for upgraded clamp force and used a new Sachs Motorsports unsprung race disc (same style as the GT2 disc Todd supplied, but with a more aggressive material) and it hasn't slipped yet in 2+ years. Ben is right, this is the perfect feeling clutch package, but it requires addition clamp force to withstand high HP for any length of time.
***Dave, just my opinion, but if I were you, I would look into re-working the pressure plate for additional clamp force, unless you plan to run well under 650 flywheel HP***
2) MAF - Ari is right, given my direct experience with the Ford MAF / blow-thru set-up as my experience with the Ford MAF and blow thru intake was not the best, either. My car became very difficult to feather the throttle in low speed or part throttle driving situations - in short, the driveabilty suffered...bucking or surging in parking lots and lack of control in fine feathering of the throttle while underway. When I replaced it with an OEM bosch MAF, the car returned to OEM like driving characteristics. It actually dynoed a little higher, too.
When I was experiencing the driving issues with the Ford MAF, I spoke to several well know tuners about the part throttle jerkiness. I was unanimously told that they had experienced the same characteristics with both the Hitachi and the Ford MAF and that nothing drives as smooth as the OEM Bosch MAF, which was designed for the car. On my quest to solve the problem, I had occasion to speak with other Ford MAF users that were having the exact same issues and I know of a couple that followed my lead, went to the Bosch MAF, which solved their issues as well. This is what prompted me to design our enlarged Y-Pipe with larger
2 1/2" silicon hose. I wanted to keep the larger plumbing from the IC's to the throttle body and there was nothing on the market, so I designed and fabricated the first kit with a 75mm Y-pipe opening for my own car.
All that said, many are happy with the Ford MAF and report no problems, but I was not as fortunate and I do know of others that had the exact same issues that were finally cured by going back to the Bosch MAF. The blow thru MAF is a pretty big commitment and to end up unhappy was a bit of a disappointment for me, but a great learning experience.
1) Clutch
the part numbers are:
disc: 99611601532
pressure plate: 883082752
Todd K says it is good up to 650-700 at the wheels - anything more and it's borderline.
disc: 99611601532
pressure plate: 883082752
Todd K says it is good up to 650-700 at the wheels - anything more and it's borderline.
***Dave, just my opinion, but if I were you, I would look into re-working the pressure plate for additional clamp force, unless you plan to run well under 650 flywheel HP***
2) MAF - Ari is right, given my direct experience with the Ford MAF / blow-thru set-up as my experience with the Ford MAF and blow thru intake was not the best, either. My car became very difficult to feather the throttle in low speed or part throttle driving situations - in short, the driveabilty suffered...bucking or surging in parking lots and lack of control in fine feathering of the throttle while underway. When I replaced it with an OEM bosch MAF, the car returned to OEM like driving characteristics. It actually dynoed a little higher, too.
When I was experiencing the driving issues with the Ford MAF, I spoke to several well know tuners about the part throttle jerkiness. I was unanimously told that they had experienced the same characteristics with both the Hitachi and the Ford MAF and that nothing drives as smooth as the OEM Bosch MAF, which was designed for the car. On my quest to solve the problem, I had occasion to speak with other Ford MAF users that were having the exact same issues and I know of a couple that followed my lead, went to the Bosch MAF, which solved their issues as well. This is what prompted me to design our enlarged Y-Pipe with larger
2 1/2" silicon hose. I wanted to keep the larger plumbing from the IC's to the throttle body and there was nothing on the market, so I designed and fabricated the first kit with a 75mm Y-pipe opening for my own car.
All that said, many are happy with the Ford MAF and report no problems, but I was not as fortunate and I do know of others that had the exact same issues that were finally cured by going back to the Bosch MAF. The blow thru MAF is a pretty big commitment and to end up unhappy was a bit of a disappointment for me, but a great learning experience.
__________________
991.2 GT3 RS Weissach Racing Yellow
991.2 Turbo S GT Silver
991.2 GT3 Chalk (Manual)
2022 Cayenne White
former 1972 911T white, 1984 911 3.2 Targa black, 993 cab white, 993TT arena red, 993TT silver, 996TT speed yellow, 991.1 GT3 white
www.speedtechexhausts.com
info@speedtechexhausts.com
Testimonials facebook SpeedTech Exhaust Videos
991.2 GT3 RS Weissach Racing Yellow
991.2 Turbo S GT Silver
991.2 GT3 Chalk (Manual)
2022 Cayenne White
former 1972 911T white, 1984 911 3.2 Targa black, 993 cab white, 993TT arena red, 993TT silver, 996TT speed yellow, 991.1 GT3 white
www.speedtechexhausts.com
info@speedtechexhausts.com
Testimonials facebook SpeedTech Exhaust Videos
Last edited by John@SpeedTech; 03-24-2010 at 08:24 PM.
#36
There's nothing wrong with a Ford MAF, they're tough as nails and in this application can meter FAR more airflow than the OEM MAF. The OEM MAF runs out of airflow and when this happens it has to be tuned around much like a MAP system from what I gather. The OEM MAF will also blow much more easily when it's being hit with full voltage trying to meter max airflow.
As to making less HP when switching to a less restrictive air inlet system - I cannot explain that but I'd be looking for another issue on the car like a vac\boost leak. Exposed filters can be an issue, I freely admit that but it's not like they're hanging out where someone can see them to mess with them.
Upgrading the OEM style piping isn't a bad way to go at all and this is the perfect time for you to do it. I just find the cost still steep and think shorter pipes can flow more is all. Bigger isn't always better though so if this flows enough air for you and you don't pop MAF like flashbulbs go for it! It'll actually be very interesting to hear your driving impressions after the upgrade and any power changes you can document. I have little doubt that it will be noticable!
As to making less HP when switching to a less restrictive air inlet system - I cannot explain that but I'd be looking for another issue on the car like a vac\boost leak. Exposed filters can be an issue, I freely admit that but it's not like they're hanging out where someone can see them to mess with them.
Upgrading the OEM style piping isn't a bad way to go at all and this is the perfect time for you to do it. I just find the cost still steep and think shorter pipes can flow more is all. Bigger isn't always better though so if this flows enough air for you and you don't pop MAF like flashbulbs go for it! It'll actually be very interesting to hear your driving impressions after the upgrade and any power changes you can document. I have little doubt that it will be noticable!
I have direct experience with a few topics in this thread and will share my experience.
1) Clutch
I purchased this exact same pressure plate with a new GT2 disc from Todd when I did my K24/18G's several years ago. It feels and works fantastic, just like stock. I loved it, but it started slipping in less than 6 months. I had to do a clutch job again in less than a year. The second time I sent the pressure plate to clutchmasters for upgraded clamp force and used a new Sachs Motorsports unsprung race disc (same style as the GT2 disc Todd supplied, but with a more aggressive material) and it hasn't slipped yet in 2+ years. Ben is right, this is the perfect feeling clutch package, but it requires addition clamp force to withstand high HP for any length of time.
***Dave, just my opinion, but if I were you, I would look into re-working the pressure plate for additional clamp force, unless you plan to run well under 650 flywheel HP***
2) MAF - Ari is right, given my direct experience with the Ford MAF / blow-thru set-up as my experience with the Ford MAF and blow thru intake was not the best, either. My car became very difficult to feather the throttle in low speed or part throttle driving situations - in short, the driveabilty suffered...bucking or surging in parking lots and lack of control in fine feathering of the throttle while underway. When I replaced it with an OEM bosch MAF, the car returned to OEM like driving characteristics. It actually dynoed a little higher, too.
When I was experiencing the driving issues with the Ford MAF, I spoke to several well know tuners about the part throttle jerkiness. I was unanimously told that they had experienced the same characteristics with both the Hitachi and the Ford MAF and that nothing drives as smooth as the OEM Bosch MAF, which was designed for the car. On my quest to solve the problem, I had occasion to speak with other Ford MAF users that were having the exact same issues and I know of a couple that followed my lead, went to the Bosch MAF, which solved their issues as well. This is what prompted me to design our enlarged Y-Pipe with larger
2 1/2" silicon hose. I wanted to keep the larger plumbing from the IC's to the throttle body and there was nothing on the market, so I designed and fabricated the first kit with a 75mm Y-pipe opening for my own car.
All that said, many are happy with the Ford MAF and report no problems, but I was not as fortunate and I do know of others that had the exact same issues that were finally cured by going back to the Bosch MAF. The blow thru MAF is a pretty big commitment and to end up unhappy was a bit of a disappointment for me, but a great learning experience.
1) Clutch
I purchased this exact same pressure plate with a new GT2 disc from Todd when I did my K24/18G's several years ago. It feels and works fantastic, just like stock. I loved it, but it started slipping in less than 6 months. I had to do a clutch job again in less than a year. The second time I sent the pressure plate to clutchmasters for upgraded clamp force and used a new Sachs Motorsports unsprung race disc (same style as the GT2 disc Todd supplied, but with a more aggressive material) and it hasn't slipped yet in 2+ years. Ben is right, this is the perfect feeling clutch package, but it requires addition clamp force to withstand high HP for any length of time.
***Dave, just my opinion, but if I were you, I would look into re-working the pressure plate for additional clamp force, unless you plan to run well under 650 flywheel HP***
2) MAF - Ari is right, given my direct experience with the Ford MAF / blow-thru set-up as my experience with the Ford MAF and blow thru intake was not the best, either. My car became very difficult to feather the throttle in low speed or part throttle driving situations - in short, the driveabilty suffered...bucking or surging in parking lots and lack of control in fine feathering of the throttle while underway. When I replaced it with an OEM bosch MAF, the car returned to OEM like driving characteristics. It actually dynoed a little higher, too.
When I was experiencing the driving issues with the Ford MAF, I spoke to several well know tuners about the part throttle jerkiness. I was unanimously told that they had experienced the same characteristics with both the Hitachi and the Ford MAF and that nothing drives as smooth as the OEM Bosch MAF, which was designed for the car. On my quest to solve the problem, I had occasion to speak with other Ford MAF users that were having the exact same issues and I know of a couple that followed my lead, went to the Bosch MAF, which solved their issues as well. This is what prompted me to design our enlarged Y-Pipe with larger
2 1/2" silicon hose. I wanted to keep the larger plumbing from the IC's to the throttle body and there was nothing on the market, so I designed and fabricated the first kit with a 75mm Y-pipe opening for my own car.
All that said, many are happy with the Ford MAF and report no problems, but I was not as fortunate and I do know of others that had the exact same issues that were finally cured by going back to the Bosch MAF. The blow thru MAF is a pretty big commitment and to end up unhappy was a bit of a disappointment for me, but a great learning experience.
#37
All that said, many are happy with the Ford MAF and report no problems, but I was not as fortunate and I do know of others that had the exact same issues that were finally cured by going back to the Bosch MAF. The blow thru MAF is a pretty big commitment and to end up unhappy was a bit of a disappointment for me, but a great learning experience.
- David
#38
Hi,
Perhaps, it was tuned by Todd and we tried at least 15 tunes. Bucking is a little extreme a word to use - the car surged slightly in parking lots, but enough to bother me. And the throttle response in low speed situations was too sharp for fine feathering - a little more like an on-off switch. Todd explained it as the Ford MAF is very sensitive. I didn't care for it. The car was very driveable and these issues were slight, but they would not disappear after 15 tunes. Others have had the same problem - I was not the only one, but yet again many others report no issues. I am just saying that like Ari has heard, I had the same issues. It is not just one case of this, but multiple.
Perhaps, it was tuned by Todd and we tried at least 15 tunes. Bucking is a little extreme a word to use - the car surged slightly in parking lots, but enough to bother me. And the throttle response in low speed situations was too sharp for fine feathering - a little more like an on-off switch. Todd explained it as the Ford MAF is very sensitive. I didn't care for it. The car was very driveable and these issues were slight, but they would not disappear after 15 tunes. Others have had the same problem - I was not the only one, but yet again many others report no issues. I am just saying that like Ari has heard, I had the same issues. It is not just one case of this, but multiple.
__________________
991.2 GT3 RS Weissach Racing Yellow
991.2 Turbo S GT Silver
991.2 GT3 Chalk (Manual)
2022 Cayenne White
former 1972 911T white, 1984 911 3.2 Targa black, 993 cab white, 993TT arena red, 993TT silver, 996TT speed yellow, 991.1 GT3 white
www.speedtechexhausts.com
info@speedtechexhausts.com
Testimonials facebook SpeedTech Exhaust Videos
991.2 GT3 RS Weissach Racing Yellow
991.2 Turbo S GT Silver
991.2 GT3 Chalk (Manual)
2022 Cayenne White
former 1972 911T white, 1984 911 3.2 Targa black, 993 cab white, 993TT arena red, 993TT silver, 996TT speed yellow, 991.1 GT3 white
www.speedtechexhausts.com
info@speedtechexhausts.com
Testimonials facebook SpeedTech Exhaust Videos
#39
John, that's def something to think about. 650 crank hp really? I have been running at that number or slightly above for awhile with a less beefy sachs setup for at least 8-10k miles...
__________________
991.2 GT3 RS Weissach Racing Yellow
991.2 Turbo S GT Silver
991.2 GT3 Chalk (Manual)
2022 Cayenne White
former 1972 911T white, 1984 911 3.2 Targa black, 993 cab white, 993TT arena red, 993TT silver, 996TT speed yellow, 991.1 GT3 white
www.speedtechexhausts.com
info@speedtechexhausts.com
Testimonials facebook SpeedTech Exhaust Videos
991.2 GT3 RS Weissach Racing Yellow
991.2 Turbo S GT Silver
991.2 GT3 Chalk (Manual)
2022 Cayenne White
former 1972 911T white, 1984 911 3.2 Targa black, 993 cab white, 993TT arena red, 993TT silver, 996TT speed yellow, 991.1 GT3 white
www.speedtechexhausts.com
info@speedtechexhausts.com
Testimonials facebook SpeedTech Exhaust Videos
#41
I sent you a PM.
__________________
991.2 GT3 RS Weissach Racing Yellow
991.2 Turbo S GT Silver
991.2 GT3 Chalk (Manual)
2022 Cayenne White
former 1972 911T white, 1984 911 3.2 Targa black, 993 cab white, 993TT arena red, 993TT silver, 996TT speed yellow, 991.1 GT3 white
www.speedtechexhausts.com
info@speedtechexhausts.com
Testimonials facebook SpeedTech Exhaust Videos
991.2 GT3 RS Weissach Racing Yellow
991.2 Turbo S GT Silver
991.2 GT3 Chalk (Manual)
2022 Cayenne White
former 1972 911T white, 1984 911 3.2 Targa black, 993 cab white, 993TT arena red, 993TT silver, 996TT speed yellow, 991.1 GT3 white
www.speedtechexhausts.com
info@speedtechexhausts.com
Testimonials facebook SpeedTech Exhaust Videos
#42
John I've heard you talk about this with the MAF several times but no one else comes forward. Are you sure you didn't have a vac leak or other issue because that's what it sounds like - unmetered air getting past the MAF. How long ago was this? Could things have improved?
#43
John I've heard you talk about this with the MAF several times but no one else comes forward. Are you sure you didn't have a vac leak or other issue because that's what it sounds like - unmetered air getting past the MAF. How long ago was this? Could things have improved?
#44
Wow interesting... makes me have 2nd thoughts about doing the push through...
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