dude i wish.... theres nothing around here...

 

All you guys that are blowing Greddy's, does the unit completely go (lights out) or does it still operate and do jack ****

 

Yip, must be loads of guys blowing Greddy units out there... nobody can give me an answer

 

The last 1 that blew here on a 996tt would make 30psi 1 run 17 the next.. Seemed like if the car cooled solenoid worked.. then 2nd run back to back boost dead again.. Hope that helps..

Mike

 

At last an answer, Thanks Mike... just trying to gauge what is exactly going on with these failures... seems a right mixture between faulty solenoid and the actual unit.

 

In most cases what i have seen is a Faulty solenoid which is most likely from the heat.. The boxes i am sure fail also which may also be partly from poor wiring..

Mike

 

Okay some answers - the unit up front continues to work or appear to work. Shows pressure blah blah but the driver gets blown to run the solenoid. Were it not for the low boost you would never know there was an issue, car still feels pretty fast but... A short in the line signaling the solenoid does make sense, not having any protection for that however is stupid if indeed that's what did it! this unit was bought from Titan who I assume is authorized but I never sent in the warranty card etc. so I dunno' what Greddy would do for me.

Solenoid still works, I can apply power and it clicks fine. I didn't install this so I cannot speak to the wiring. I would like to have a setup that doesn't bring the sensing inside the car. i might try a manual unit or I may go for th eHKS. right now I'm just bummed and haven't touched it since I got it home almost a week ago.

 

If you are not needing to go up and down with boost on the fly all the time put the manual and be done.. Its mechanical and is unlikely to ever fail..

Mike

 

My issues with a mechanical are that temp changes can screw with it and that I worry about response. I guess I would need a spring and ball type and not a bleeder type to maintain that? I've honestly not ever used a mechanical valve, my last car I tuned it completely through the duty cycle of the solenoid on the standalone - man THAT was a dream! Set the boost pressure and forget it no matter the weather etc. Cost? Umm, I think GM charged me $25 for the Typhoon boost solenoid and I had some hose in the garage. <sigh> I do NOT need to go up and down and my car is tuned to a max of 1.2BAR and I beleive there's a boost cut at 1.3 actually. In this case I guess part of it is fear of the unknown having never used one and wanting to be sure I don't hurt the motor. Can I set one of these up using a pressure pump for initial tuning maybe? Do you have experience with a good one? I know how some are built but if I go mechanical I'll be buying just for peace of mind! I've seen MBC on plenty of cars though...

Maybe I'll research the HKS EVC some tomorrow night as it's late, I do like their system with the knock amp blah blah too. Just on this car since I cannot tune it I want to keep things simple for now.

 

Assuming you have internal wastegates id say ball and spring is what i would use.. Open loop Ecu controlled boost still creeps with lower temperature. Closed loop ecu controlled boost monitors via map sensor to control boost.. Open loop just works off wastegate duty cycle.. Same principle as a manual valve..

We use Boost cut for safety of course on the freezing cold days when boost likes to fly using the MBC.. Never really had an issue before.. Its been cold here as of late and the last Porsche we did @ 2bar ran flawless hot and cold with a ball and spring Forge MBC.. I like Hallman the best out of them all.. Some SUCK too such as Turbo XS.. CHINESE JUNK..

 

a short got mine.. I called greddy usa tech dept. talked to a cool guy... after 5 minutes he just asked where I purchased it... I think I emailed the receipt.. got a new one that week...
I did find a cut/pinched wire from the unit to the back... that was probably install error and or other reason other then Unit failure... I still got it covered...

 

Any tips/hints to dial the HKS EVC IV??

 

DAMN...That's complicated

I think i will get the damn greddy again

I got this one and i couldn't find the dial instructions

http://www.hksusa.com/products/more.asp?id=3208

 

Seeing how everyone seems to be having problems with there boost controllers now, I will offer a quick special on HKS EVC's. HKS boost controllers have always worked well when installed correctly. I can offer installation of these products in NY but I can't really offer much phone support for you right now because our shop is extremely busy right now and the techs are working very long full days. Read the instructions before you buy one or have a local shop that knows how to do them ready to do your install.

$495.00 EVC
$290.00 EVC-S

I will sell these at this price for the next week. If you need one, put some money together and call me within a week to order. You will have until April 16, 2010 to get your orders in at this price.

 

If you had time to put together a simple schematic of the line routing for both internal and external wastegates, I bet you would sell a few. Even if you just draw it like Vivid did with the profec diagram!

Tom