Rick, What hole do you use on GT3 Swaybar?

 

I used the forward most hole and used AP links that Dan sold me. I think I'm two holes from the front end of the bar, but I can check. This setup will take most if not all the push out from your car!

 

I just checked my bar. There are 4 holes on the factory GT3 rear sway bar. One thing to remember is these holes are more forward than the factory turbo bar. I used the 3 hole from the front. My links wouldn't allow me to go further forward and the bar almost touches the lower control arm. Your adjustment will be determined by the ride height of your car as well. Mine is L-O-W! GL!

 

You really should get adjustable drop links at the same time, especially for the front. This will allow you to avoid the problem Rick describes with interference with the control arm and/or front axle.

I also agree with Rick that Casey's comments above are wrong. These cars push, and there must be at least 30 people on this forum who have tuned some or all of that out using just a stiffer rear bar. I eventually added a front bar for fine tuning, but this is probably not necessary if your car doesn't see the track.

 

Just an FYI...there was a discussion on the 997TT/GT2 forum regarding sway bars that you may find helpful.

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-sway-bar.html

 

Possibly I misinterpreted this thread. I suppose if the only thing you are attempting to do is rid your car of understeer you can add a stiffer rear bar, or heck, just unbolt the front bar(dont do that)... We build cars for track applications and that is where my input comes from. We only sell bars in pairs.

As to these questions:


Your front swaybar is stiffer than stock, right?
-Correct, at the middle setting our bar is ~50% stiffer than the GT3 front bar at the same placement.

How would you compare TPC rear Swaybar to HR or GT3, stiffer?
-Our rear bar is significantly different than the H&R bar as our bar is hollow(like the factory bar), the H&R bar is solid.
-Our bar is ~15% stiffer than a GT3 Bar. We derived our settings from copying what worked the best when we raced professionally(won the daytona 24)... Our rates, bar content closely compare to the rates that worked best on our bladed bar (adjustable, not for street) that we use in our cup cars.

Is it adjustable both Front / Rear ?
-Yes, both are adjustable.

Could it work with Stock Droplinks?
-In order to utilize the adjustment of the bar you need to use adjustable droplinks.

 

Yes, If I had it to do over again, I would have had Dan ship me longer or adjustable links so I could maybe get to the next hole more forward without hitting my rear lower control arm. I have no complaints about the way the car handles though... not any more!

 

That thread is priceless - one of the most informative AND entertaining threads on 6spd...

 

ARONKL let's know what you get and how it worked for you please.I'll get one or two sway bars in the future.

Thanks

Rolando

 

A little bit of everything...something for everyone!

 

Finished that thread. I still do not have clear answer. Like this friend said in there
"This keeps on getting deeper and more complicated... I am about to grab some popcorn and sit here. "

 

I can that i have in fact driven several track days without the front sway. It is not for the faint of heart or high speed circuits really at all. Our cars push and that is a matter of fact. I resorted to some other tricks to get the under steer gone.

I have always felt that the front sway om the TT needs to be stock or softer.

 

Heavy, what rear swaybar do you use? Any feedback of it? Need it to be stiffer or ?
Thanks.

 

Here is the deal, I would upgrade to a different sway if I knew for sure it would be stiffer. The h&r is great but i wouldnt mind a tad stiffer.

It gets complicated because the h&r will be jusy fine for 90% of us. And only so much you can cover up with the sway. The h&r was great until my speed surpassed its efficacy. Cant go wrong but it only postpones understeer until you laps are faster. Track dependent.

 

I will say this, car chassis dynamics are not where you make grip disappear. All of it, even from the factory is about weight transfer so I do not believe that adding a stiffef rear bar makes grip go away. It simply transfers the balance of the car around to the opposite end. As with anything though there is a point of diminishing returns and your car gets to stiff to allow the chassis to disritbute weight and grip. These off the shelf mass produced kits we buy arent even close to that threshold. On top of that the cars are heavy and have rubber supporting everything, so there is still plenty of give.

Therr are far too many differences between a cup and an awd turbo to apply all rules equally. i would not put as big of a bar on a gt3 or gt2 either.

this is not about making the car loose, its about transfering grip to our light front ends.