HELP... Coolant refill problem
#1
HELP... Coolant refill problem
Had to replace front left radiator. Can't seem to get all the coolant back into the car. I ran the car for about 20 min or so. I raised the rear of the car and turned the heater on hot... heater air was coming out hot but front radiators stayed cold. I'm guessing there is some kind of special procedure to get the air out. I drained aprox 2 gal out and was able to put 1 gal back. I am afraid to drive the car in order to ger the water pressure up. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance, Karl
Thanks in advance, Karl
#2
So far you did the wright thing. This was discuss many times and some people got different approach. The one I used is the one from Loren on Renntech which is: "Just open the bleed valve on top of the coolant tank. You can drive around with it that way and it will help purge air out of the system. Just check the level every few days and add coolant/water until it stops going down. Then close the bleed valve." Keep an eye on temperature and regularly add coolant fluid until the full mark....
The bleed valve is located on the coolant expansion tank cap. The small metal handle...
The dealer used PST2 or PIWIS functions....
The bleed valve is located on the coolant expansion tank cap. The small metal handle...
The dealer used PST2 or PIWIS functions....
Last edited by jpflip; 06-03-2010 at 05:11 PM.
#3
Would you mind snapping a picture of this valve?
So far you did the wright thing. This was discuss many times and some people got different approach. The one I used is the one from Loren on Renntech which is: "Just open the bleed valve on top of the coolant tank. You can drive around with it that way and it will help purge air out of the system. Just check the level every few days and add coolant/water until it stops going down. Then close the bleed valve." Keep an eye on temperature and regularly add coolant fluid until the full mark....
The bleed valve is located on the coolant expansion tank cap. The small metal handle...
The dealer used PST2 or PIWIS functions....
The bleed valve is located on the coolant expansion tank cap. The small metal handle...
The dealer used PST2 or PIWIS functions....
#6
i tried the expansion cap bleed method, idling with rear towards steep incline, method. for a week's worth of driving and I wasn't able to get out all the air. in the end bought the special tool. Have seen dealers do this with an equivelant tool, it works.
#7
Snap-on: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....group_ID=12500
Thanks for the info!
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#8
Mad Ness can you be more explicit about the tool. Are you talking about the same tool smdubovsky got on his post https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...p-motor-3.html
Snap-on: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....group_ID=12500
Thanks for the info!
Snap-on: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....group_ID=12500
Thanks for the info!
it took them less than 15mins to do. afterwards, they used a handpump to the sealed cap at the reservoir, to pressurize out residual air. snap on's just a rebranded airlift unit.
http://www.mavericktechnology.co.uk/...refilling-tool
here's a ver.2 looks like plastic but much cheaper.
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/uv550500.html
#9
So far you did the wright thing. This was discuss many times and some people got different approach. The one I used is the one from Loren on Renntech which is: "Just open the bleed valve on top of the coolant tank. You can drive around with it that way and it will help purge air out of the system. Just check the level every few days and add coolant/water until it stops going down. Then close the bleed valve." Keep an eye on temperature and regularly add coolant fluid until the full mark....
The bleed valve is located on the coolant expansion tank cap. The small metal handle...
The dealer used PST2 or PIWIS functions....
The bleed valve is located on the coolant expansion tank cap. The small metal handle...
The dealer used PST2 or PIWIS functions....
I used this method. Took a few days, but finally got it...
#10
hey yea the snap on one (radkitplus), got it off a forum member here. haven't used it but watched the dealers use something equivalent to the snap on. Theirs had a cap for the reservoir with a nipple. SnapOn's uses an expansion neck and rubber adapters to make a seal.
it took them less than 15mins to do. afterwards, they used a handpump to the sealed cap at the reservoir, to pressurize out residual air. snap on's just a rebranded airlift unit.
http://www.mavericktechnology.co.uk/...refilling-tool
here's a ver.2 looks like plastic but much cheaper.
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/uv550500.html
it took them less than 15mins to do. afterwards, they used a handpump to the sealed cap at the reservoir, to pressurize out residual air. snap on's just a rebranded airlift unit.
http://www.mavericktechnology.co.uk/...refilling-tool
here's a ver.2 looks like plastic but much cheaper.
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/uv550500.html
Another tool to put on my list! Thanks a lot Mad Ness for the info. It is in fact the same tool used by smdubovsky.
#11
So far you did the wright thing. This was discuss many times and some people got different approach. The one I used is the one from Loren on Renntech which is: "Just open the bleed valve on top of the coolant tank. You can drive around with it that way and it will help purge air out of the system. Just check the level every few days and add coolant/water until it stops going down. Then close the bleed valve." Keep an eye on temperature and regularly add coolant fluid until the full mark....
The bleed valve is located on the coolant expansion tank cap. The small metal handle...
The dealer used PST2 or PIWIS functions....
The bleed valve is located on the coolant expansion tank cap. The small metal handle...
The dealer used PST2 or PIWIS functions....
Having just changed my centre Rad i lost 4 pints including whats in the old rad. The coolant level has not dropped yet but I have not started the car. I presume the New Rad is still empty. Can I still drive the car using your method. Will that much air still in the new rad come out. There must be air in the pipes as well.
HELP PLEASE.
Thanks Frank.
ps I am used to having vent srews higher than the engine so this is a bit new for me.
#12
Hi,
Having just changed my centre Rad i lost 4 pints including whats in the old rad. The coolant level has not dropped yet but I have not started the car. I presume the New Rad is still empty. Can I still drive the car using your method. Will that much air still in the new rad come out. There must be air in the pipes as well.
HELP PLEASE.
Thanks Frank.
ps I am used to having vent srews higher than the engine so this is a bit new for me.
Having just changed my centre Rad i lost 4 pints including whats in the old rad. The coolant level has not dropped yet but I have not started the car. I presume the New Rad is still empty. Can I still drive the car using your method. Will that much air still in the new rad come out. There must be air in the pipes as well.
HELP PLEASE.
Thanks Frank.
ps I am used to having vent srews higher than the engine so this is a bit new for me.
#13
I agree with ttboost. But the first drive keep a closer eye on the lever. Or better start it and leave in running for a while (may be a good 15 to 30 minutes) and keep and eye on the expansion tank level....
#14
Yup. When I had a problem and had to do this, I jacked up the rear as high as I could and ran it and filled it until it wouldn't take another drop. Then just drive it. If you go for a long drive, you may stop and refill a few times. Let it sit over night and fill again in the morning. (ALWAYS LEAVING THAT BLEED OPEN). Maybe one more drive and you should be good, but don't be surprised if it takes more...these cars are a bear to bleed.
#15
+1 and what ttboost said leave the lever open. at first warm up, fill, cool down, warm up again, then suggest taking short drives around the block a few times before making longer trips. just to be safe.