Boost Gauge Install DIY
#1
Boost Gauge Install DIY
Stock boost meter performance wasn't up to par post k2418g conversion (rate of change in boost faster than meter can effectively display). Installed an aftermarket analogue boost gauge to address the issue.
Took me a long time to do this. Everything on this car is harder relative to front engine or jdm cars... hope this guide will be of assistance to other first timers.
Chose "pivot" gauge because 1) small control box that could be hidden and 2) orange LED/Black face to match.
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Small control box and sensor in one, this type can't be mounted in engine bay. Extended both the power and signal harnesses, 5ft each. Just enough with bit of slack.
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Tap the air hose at the fuel regulator. Here's a very helpful step by step on how to get to the area: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...oving-fpr.html thanks OP.
Followed everything in the above link. Can see the regulator at bottom of bracket opening, the 90 degree black soft hose is the one to tap.
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From engine bay to interior:
Remove rear carpet and trim as pictured. rear trim - wedge fingers between glass and top side of trim, gently pull. (when reinstalling remove the clips from the trim, put them back on the car first) Remove bose subwoofer, 2 torx bolts silver color inside sub hole cover. pull box towards yourself, lift up, there's a harness left side bottom, unplug, remove the box from the car. Under the box, pull the carpet up between the 2 sub box brackets exposing bottom edge of rear carpet. pull the rear side carpet up, creating a crease in middle making it more plyable. bottom 2 corners of rear window/ top side rear carpet, massage the carpet corners around side trim. clock the carpet at an angle and remove. it's not easy and space is tight. careful not to rub against the leather trim, dents easy.
Under the carpet, you'll find a grommet on the left/right. I used the one on left side because my car is RHD. Remove the grommet. Stuck a piece of wire to poke through the heat sponge and pulled the boost vacuum hose thorough from the engine bay.
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drill a hole in grommet, pass hose, re install.
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Wire comes out here, in engine bay.
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T fitting at FPR vacuum source:
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keep the airhose as short as possible, routing it so that it doesn't crease.
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Top side join vacuum hose, make sure hose isn't creased, tucked wires in corner space.
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I prefer to use the fuses for power source, easily reversible, no splicing OEM harnesses. Fuses used are arbitrary. Just found the usual 3, 12V, IGN, Ground there's a bracket just above the fuse box.
Bolted the ground here. Interior panels on driver side removed. Using driver side to access fuse box.
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easily accessible.
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Now for the fun part. Interior removal. yay...![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
seat memory panel.
See the 2 hex bolts, half out on car side? silver color. Note brackets on switch panel underside. On the other side, there's 2 small plastic plugs. gently remove these. I used my finger nails, anything else would have scratched interior, plus not much space for rear side bolt, with seats in place. Loosten then, gently pull the panel up.
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Remove door weather strip. Gently help it out, dont rip it. (When reinstalling start at B pillar corner and work around.)
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ANother helpful post for this. thanks OP
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/57094-pillar-removal-how-question.html
be gentle when removing the height adjust cover.
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Side panel: Once the door weather strip and seat mem panel's been removed, pull from top out from window rubber rim lining. then pull upwards. take pause to notice where clips on backside are as these hook in first when reinstalling. no need to remove completely, just dislodge enough to get wires thru.
phillips screw here.
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hex bolt here.
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Ran wires on side of car. and up A pillar. split power cables going to fuse box shown above, and signal wires up A pillar.
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Now reinstall everything. Take breaks, rushing = broken stuff and left over bolts.
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I chose this position. But could easily be mounted on dash using this method.
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incog, doubt occifer pig would see it ...
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good luck and happy boosting...
Took me a long time to do this. Everything on this car is harder relative to front engine or jdm cars... hope this guide will be of assistance to other first timers.
Chose "pivot" gauge because 1) small control box that could be hidden and 2) orange LED/Black face to match.
Small control box and sensor in one, this type can't be mounted in engine bay. Extended both the power and signal harnesses, 5ft each. Just enough with bit of slack.
Tap the air hose at the fuel regulator. Here's a very helpful step by step on how to get to the area: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...oving-fpr.html thanks OP.
Followed everything in the above link. Can see the regulator at bottom of bracket opening, the 90 degree black soft hose is the one to tap.
From engine bay to interior:
Remove rear carpet and trim as pictured. rear trim - wedge fingers between glass and top side of trim, gently pull. (when reinstalling remove the clips from the trim, put them back on the car first) Remove bose subwoofer, 2 torx bolts silver color inside sub hole cover. pull box towards yourself, lift up, there's a harness left side bottom, unplug, remove the box from the car. Under the box, pull the carpet up between the 2 sub box brackets exposing bottom edge of rear carpet. pull the rear side carpet up, creating a crease in middle making it more plyable. bottom 2 corners of rear window/ top side rear carpet, massage the carpet corners around side trim. clock the carpet at an angle and remove. it's not easy and space is tight. careful not to rub against the leather trim, dents easy.
Under the carpet, you'll find a grommet on the left/right. I used the one on left side because my car is RHD. Remove the grommet. Stuck a piece of wire to poke through the heat sponge and pulled the boost vacuum hose thorough from the engine bay.
drill a hole in grommet, pass hose, re install.
Wire comes out here, in engine bay.
T fitting at FPR vacuum source:
keep the airhose as short as possible, routing it so that it doesn't crease.
Top side join vacuum hose, make sure hose isn't creased, tucked wires in corner space.
I prefer to use the fuses for power source, easily reversible, no splicing OEM harnesses. Fuses used are arbitrary. Just found the usual 3, 12V, IGN, Ground there's a bracket just above the fuse box.
Bolted the ground here. Interior panels on driver side removed. Using driver side to access fuse box.
easily accessible.
Now for the fun part. Interior removal. yay...
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
seat memory panel.
See the 2 hex bolts, half out on car side? silver color. Note brackets on switch panel underside. On the other side, there's 2 small plastic plugs. gently remove these. I used my finger nails, anything else would have scratched interior, plus not much space for rear side bolt, with seats in place. Loosten then, gently pull the panel up.
Remove door weather strip. Gently help it out, dont rip it. (When reinstalling start at B pillar corner and work around.)
ANother helpful post for this. thanks OP
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/57094-pillar-removal-how-question.html
be gentle when removing the height adjust cover.
Side panel: Once the door weather strip and seat mem panel's been removed, pull from top out from window rubber rim lining. then pull upwards. take pause to notice where clips on backside are as these hook in first when reinstalling. no need to remove completely, just dislodge enough to get wires thru.
phillips screw here.
hex bolt here.
Ran wires on side of car. and up A pillar. split power cables going to fuse box shown above, and signal wires up A pillar.
Now reinstall everything. Take breaks, rushing = broken stuff and left over bolts.
I chose this position. But could easily be mounted on dash using this method.
incog, doubt occifer pig would see it ...
good luck and happy boosting...
![Big Grin](https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
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