thanks people, right i need sleep! its 1 am here in the u.k, will get back here tommorrow to see what other great info you leave for me .

Thanks

 

Like I said. PROBABLY way more. And not to say the obvious, but you can spend tens of thousands on a motor build and have a failure of a $100 part that MAy or MAY NOT affect the rest of your engine. I personally have not built my motor (and have no intentions of doing so, knock on wood), but there are many here that have and can provide rough (or exact, if they can stomach the truth) cost of an actual build.

 

Yeah...you stepped in doody and came out smellin like a turbo rose

 

Just a motor build with only Pauter rods and lifters and all associated gaskets, sealant, A/C charge, etc.. is probably in the $17-20k range.

The big motor builds that include heads, cams, valves, 3.8 kits, springs, headstuds, etc...are 4 times that amount.

 

Thanks Scott. Didn't want to quote a number that I didn't know. I would've guessed close though...

 

I think it's a good, affordable, reliable compromise. If I ever want more power, all I need to do is upgrade my fuel pumps and crank the boost (my current piggyback fuel pump setup is only good for a little over 800 at the wheels). If my current turbos aren't enough, swap them out for something bigger.

Maybe next year...

 

or next month

 

Remotely I mean via data logs you provide... either while on the dyno or on the street... we actually like it on the street as its more real world... but thats just my opinion...
lets say you go with Tial turbos, 60 lbs injectors, free flowing exhaust, intercoolers, dvs, and a boost controller( we use them when you want to run different fuels).
we have these base maps from previous cars that were done. you data log the car via durametric softrware, usually 3rd gear pull and email it.. we take a look at timing, lamda, boost, engine load, etc and fine tune accordingly.
You don't need laptops for multi maps.. our mapping is tuned, if you choose to, for different boost levels with fuel octane in mind... As a matter of fact we did 2 cars in the UK... one has a very serious set up and is pushing 650rwhp... he is on 6speed as well... maybe you guys are close to each other... check out his set up...
So if you run pump gas lets say we tuned it for 1.2 bar.. and then you can turn it up to lets say to 1.4 bar on 104 octane... its actually tuned with you accordingly so there is no guessing game...
thats it... it may cost you a little more upfront but you have a pretty open range of power limited to your mods and fuel octane...
Its not that hard to do... but piggy backs/stand alones are...
Mind you I and a few others are pushing 1000rwhp+ on a stock ecu...
Yes there are other options but I doubt you will be successful being there and such tuner with a stand alone/piggyback being here... its complicated and takes serious attention... ( thats what I meant safer in your case).
markski

 

We chose a standalone on my car because of simplicity of everything. We have the ability to do true live tuning without having to run an emulator and making modifications that have to be flashed after they are made (if I understand how WinOLS and the Emulator works) when you are working with BIG setups that are at the point where a cookie cutter tune won't work. There is VERY few people who know the true way these DME's actually work. This is not to talk down to anyone, but its basically the tuners and a few others. I have spent a LOT of time researching and talking to a few people about these things. The amount of maps that are modified is ridiculous. With a standalone we have a few maps to tune around and have a lot more control of everything. As I have always said about me having the setup I have now is because I argued with Justin for weeks that I didn't want a huge sticker price when I built the motor. He said there is NO need for a standalone at the power level that I am at. Now I'm just at the point of putting money together for a built motor.

Food for thought though... Why does every Bosch ME7 car as well as almost every car run a standalone setup when they are going big HP, except for the 996TT? I'll give you a hint, it's not because the stock computer is better...

 

What is the sort of cost? Lets say i use a standard engine (internals) but lets say i go for bigger injectors, bigger turbos, manifolds and exhaust and maybe cams. What sort of cost would a remap be to the spec?




And thanks everyone else for your replies.

 

No cams needed.. waste of money... you need a clutch instead... Intercoolers are a must if you wanna hit anything above 600rwhp...
Ill pm you with tuning options...

 

anyone use water injection instead of better intercoolers? I have tried this method on a previous cars and i could never get the results i was looking for, however i know others that use it to good effect.

 

I am one of the few that have water/meth injection..and while it IS good, I'm pretty sure it's not a replacement for good IC's. I still have stock IC's and my IAT's are very similar to cars with bigger IC's, BUT I still lack the volume. I think bigger IC's WITH my meth will be a nice improvement. BTW, the addition of the meth injection and the appropriate tuning got me an additional 75whp. I'm spraying 100% meth.

 

The race tracks in the u.k dont like the use of meths due to it burns with no smoke and flame. Its one of the things they check for before they let you out on track. However you can use it but the safety gets a bit more strict and they can be very funny about it as i found out in the past.

when i was messing around with water injection i think it was knocking charge temp down by about 3c. We went for a massive front mount intercooler in the end and the charge temp dropped a massive amount! Think it was something like 6c lower. The intercooler we was using was so good that we was getting condinsation on the outlet.


Was sort of charge temp drop have you got? or have you never tested it?

 

No, never did any real scientific studies...just observations. When it's 80+ degrees out, my IAT's are in the 90's or so. After a good highway blast, they might be 100-110. At the Texas Mile last year, it was warm and I noticed my IAT was mid 90's at the line and by the time I got through the traps at 195, my IAT's were 105-110 or so. Another member had the exact same results with his bigger IC's (thats where I made my comparison) That's full throttle for 6 gears and a 10deg increase in IAT...I'm OK with that, but bigger IC's would definitely help.