What will more camber do on our 996TT?

Assumming all other factors remain the same, will more camber help tighten the steering wheel up at high speeds?

Will more camber affect how the suspension reacts over bumps as the full wheel won't be taking the bump?

Can we run more camber up front such as -2 with maybe -1 in the rear, is this satisfactory setup for a street car?

I've read a lot of great alignment specs but what i'm interested in is the actual ride the most. Thanks for the help.

 

Can't answer on spec camber settings but there are st. cars running around on mentioned camber settings. Most would say -1.5F and -1.0R camber are max anyone would want for a st. car.
just by default, higher the camber, the more wheels will pull steering off track when going over larger bumps (I'm sure there's a technical term for this).
it may feel like steering is "tighter" with more camber because turning will feel sharper and steering over all more sensitve.

 

I've had my front camber at -0.5, -1.0, -1.5 and now with Tarret monoball strut mounts it's at -2.0. I can't say that I noticed any difference in how the car rides on the street. I could notice a change in 'turn-in', but really just at the track. The rear I've had at -1.0 to -2.0 with no change in ride quality. This car is used for a lot of street driving as it is my daily driver.

Most people would shoot for -1.0 front camber and -2.0 rear. Really, on a stock 996TT suspension, you can't get much more negative camber than that.

 

I have the car pretty low on GT2 Suspension and its fine but I want a little tighter steering. I'm pretty sure I can go up to -1.5 or 2.0 up front with ease but I don't want it to ride too crappy over bumps and uneven bumps which for some strange reason I'm thinking it would if I put too much camber in it.

 

It really shouldn't have any affect on how it feels going over bumps. I've never felt that change on mine.

 

more camber will make the car a bit "darty" on the street. Nothing you won't get used to in a couple days...

 

More rear camber is going to eat your rear tires faster. And like Ari said, the car will wander over the road surface a little as it follows the bumps.

 

are we talking with the u.s. stock suspension?

If anything it will help,i'm running on oem specs and it surely needs some more neg. Camber at least at the front, i feel like i'm loosing the front at speed.

Perhaps -1.0 at the front, is this easily achievable with all stock components?

 

what is the stock camber settings and can the stock setup got 2F and 1.5R?

 

no don't think it can do that stock. Mine's maxed out, lowered a tad, have got only -1 up front (strut mounts not reversed). Rear have got -0.5.

from manual


(max. difference left to right: 20 min.)

Caster 8 degrees ± 30 min.
(max. difference left to right: 40 min.)
Toe−difference angle at 20 degrees lock RoW
USA
− 2 degrees 20 min. ± 30 min.
− 1 degree 20 min. ± 30 min.
Rear axle
at DIN empty weight
Toe−in (per wheel) + 10 min. ± 5 min.
(max. difference left to right: 10 min.)
Camber − 1 degree 25 min. ± 15 min.

(max. difference left to right: 15 min.)

 

so if I am reading correctly it is -0.5F, -1.5 R ?

so you went -1F, -.5R?

 

Thing to remember is more - camber will greatly increase your tyre wear.

More - on front will reduce the weight distribution across your tyre and load the inner edges. It will not make your steering tighter and may make your straight line stability worse.

More - on the rear will decrease the amount of straight line traction ( loading the inner edges again). When the rear squats on full power the wheels will have more neg on them to start with. Like lowering a car will give more neg camber.

The reason a car has to run - camber is because of the tyre make up. Most modern tyres are radial and perform at the best with neg camber. its to do with the give and roll in the side wall and road contact area when under very hard cornering loads. As in motor sport.
Cross plyes ( as a rule) on the other hand like ZERO camber. As the internals are much stronger against cornering forces. They are not as strong for rotational forces though and heat up too quickly if raced. ( make dependant obviously)

My Rally car with Tarmac suspension ran 3 deg neg with Dunlop slicks but when I used F.A.S.T (Formula & Sport tyres ) i had to dial in Zero. I got most of my trophies with the Cross ply FAST's. ( just a coincidence. They were just good tyres)
Bottom line is if you dont race your car there is no need to dial in any more neg. In fact I have , just like Magnus ( 6 speed member Madness), dialed in 0.5 deg neg on my rears ( I might however take it back a little to 1.0 deg. I might not be getting the full potential of the tyre in the dry and I dont think it is quite as planted on a fast curve/bend in the dry). I now get about 10 to 12,000 miles from my rears (instead of about 3 to 4,000) with -0.5 deg.
In the wet running too much neg is not a good thing either. The wet makes thing worse for traction and neg camber also makes things worse for straight line traction Add them together..... You do the Math's.
I have left my fonts at 30 Min's or there abouts.
Frank

ps the original Porsche setup is what the car should be set too. They must have spent a fortune testing to get the exact setting required for most normal uses.
I just wanted better tyre wear.

Oh yes, dont ask me anymore on Camber. That my lot. Just had to learn some basics when I was doing UK National A mototsport as a privateer. No one else was going to do it for me. "It can be won or lost on Tyres alone"
Tyre technology is a science on its own.

 

I wonder if the euro camber specs are different?

 

More camber will make the car more sensitive to the crown in the road and other imperfections. Your wheel may feel off-center when driving over some roads.

It shouldn't affect darty-ness too much. That's more of a toe/caster factor.

Basically, you want more camber (negative) if your tires are wearing out on the outside edge. If your tires are wearing out more on the inside edge, then you probably want less negative camber.

More negative camber equals more cornering grip and less straight line grip (accelerating/braking). The reason for this is because during hard cornering, the car leans outward, and that negative camber will be negated by this body roll and give you a larger contact patch versus a car with similar suspension and less negative camber.

What kind of driver and what kind of driving you do should dictate how much negative camber you run.

If you want to dial out understeer, than you should try to run more negative in the front than in the rear.

 

I went with a pretty aggressive camber front and stockish rear. Added H&R rear bar and got wider 255 tires for my stock wheels (the literally never used "track setup" still sitting with zero miles a year later) I figure front tires are cheap and don't really wear compared to the rears so who cares if they wear faster.

It's a very significant improvement in turn in and grip. Compeletely noticeable. I really like it.

As mentioned above the car felt a bit darty on the first day, but now I don't even notice it.