So, yesterday I replaced my DVs with AP DVs. The stockers were intact by the way. Fairly easy except for the back lower clamp that I F***ed with for a 1/2 hr or so and when I finally got it off, I dropped it on to the motor. Heard it tinkle around for a bit and in spite of getting it on my magnet 4-5 times, I couldn't snake it out of the top of the motor. Oh well, probably won't cause a hot spot as it has so little mass.

Everything was tight as far as the N75 valve including electrics, but the hose from the lower DVs to the intake was slightly cracked and as it was a Sun and a long weekend, I just put it back together as I need to drive this thing. Next thing to replace. Shouldn't be too long before I'm back in there as the coolant tank is looking a little funky.

I then checked the wastegate actuator arms for appropriate lengths and found they were at 32+ mm! Reset them to 29.74. Thanks Dixie and Kevin.

Feeling that I've maybe solved my overboost problems, I'm off for a little road test. No Joy. .9 BAR in second, but the same indicated 1.3 BAR in third. (It's a tip.) The dyno only recorded 1.1 bar last week, but still... I only did the one on ramp run and that was enough as I know my A/F ratios are bad lean.

As I can't get the precat O2 sensors out(damn east coast car), one of my shop friends is going to tackle those and I'll ask him to confirm that the acutator arms are working as I can't pressure test.

 

You need some CLP/Breakfree or some kind of penetrating oil on the O2 threads, but be careful not to contaminate the sensors or you will be ordering new ones. I usually use a very small amount of lithium (good) or graphite (best) grease on the threads to prevent having to use a flipping welder to get them out.

You can fairly easily test the wg's breaking point with a pressure/vac tester, the hoses are very accessible from underneath.

 

Forgot to add, thanks everyone for all the help. Couldn't have done what I've done so far without the direction found here.

D33, I've got the new ones so don't care about contamination. Now I don't have the right tool. I know how to pressurize the circuit to test the wastegate, again I'm without the correct tools. I'm really hoping my indy buddy doesn't have to use a torch, just for his sake.

 

Your local sears, napa or harbor freight should carry the tester tool, just be aware of the scale of the dial readings.

Using a torch wont be so bad, just heating up the metal for expansion purposes, damn, hope he doesnt have to cut them out....yeeesh.

 

Sat, neither the local Sears, Harbor Freight had them in stock. Maybe a Napa run is in order. If he has to cut them out, I'll just try Ken's exhaust and a tune.