996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

GT2 Clutch mod without replacing clutch

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  #46  
Old 07-08-2010, 08:01 AM
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Hard to say for sure, but this sure looks like the DOT4 cap:

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/mmp/mercedes_benz~sl600~brake_reservoir_cap~parts.html
 
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Old 07-08-2010, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 2muchtime
Oh, I just thought I really sucked at consistant smooth shifting so now is my time since my accumulator is on the outs

That's what I thought too It had been several years since I drove a manual before I got the turbo--I thought all this time I've just been a crappy shifter Gonna have to see about that EVO kit
 
  #48  
Old 07-08-2010, 06:02 PM
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I have the Evoms kit but have not installed it yet. I think I have the high pitched whine when I coast to a stop, but I'm still in gear. Does this mean power steering pump is about to go also?
 
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Old 07-08-2010, 07:49 PM
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I'm curious what it should cost all in thru an indy (in my case RUF) to either:

1. replace the stock slave & accumulator as is (roughly $1000?) or
2. replace with the GT2 conversion kit

I'm not going to piece together random parts and hunt down bolts, etc. I do think $400 is a pretty big premium over and above the parts to have someone stand behind the product - that's basically 70% of the parts cost.

What is labor to install the GT2 kit?

Obviously, I don't know what I'm doing or how to DIY at all. I do have some minor Pentosin blowback and I'm sure it's the slave pushing it out through the power steering reservoir, but I have no pedal stiffness or diminished clutch feel at all. The accumulator was replaced 3 years ago by the dealer but they did not do the slave at that time.

Thanks!
 
  #50  
Old 07-08-2010, 09:39 PM
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The labor to install the kit is roughly 8 hours. If you find a shop that has done it before, it could be less. Multiply 8 x your shop rate and that will give you the labor. For the kit, plus installation, I would figure $1,500-$2,000 and you should land somewhere in the middle...This is not a quick, easy mod - it takes time. It's well worth the money.

If you enjoy driving your car in a sporty, somewhat aggressive manner, then you will notice the dramatically improved clutch characteristics every time you drive the car and love it.
 
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  #51  
Old 07-10-2010, 05:29 AM
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John You're correct man... I was looking at Mike Kelly's setup on the lift yesterday and although I could see the componenets with a shop light, I still have no idea how they're doing this without atleast unbolting the trans from the motor and moving it 6 inches minimum to have access to everything...

BTW, I got to hear your Xcellerator system on his car, man... NICE!!!

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Old 07-10-2010, 07:19 PM
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Would this conversion be easy (easier) if the engine is out?
 
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Old 07-10-2010, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Hedonistic
Would this conversion be easy (easier) if the engine is out?
Much.
 
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Old 07-11-2010, 05:05 AM
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Re-reading this thread, my impression is that in early posts people have made this out to be a simple DIY. It is not. I've done several slave cylinder/accumilator jobs and I don't think you can remove the clutch fork from the assembly with the trans in place. My best guess, and from what I've been told by others who have done this job (including the shop that did mine) is that you are much better served to do it when the clutch is being replaced or the transmission is being removed for something else, or the drivetrain is being dropped for other service. You'll save on most of the labor.

But don't be mis-lead. This is not a simple 2-3 hour DIY...
NH
 
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Old 07-11-2010, 07:06 AM
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You do not need to remove the clutch fork to do this job if you use the bracket for it.

If you want to do the complete GT2 conversion and drill and tap the transmisison bellhousing then yes, you have to take the tranny apart and buy a new clutch fork since the actuator is on the other side.

But the bracket that those shops sell is meant to go in the stock location so you don't have to mess with drilling the transmission.
 
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Old 07-11-2010, 07:46 AM
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You do not need to remove the clutch fork to do this job if you use the bracket for it.

If you want to do the complete GT2 conversion and drill and tap the transmisison bellhousing then yes, you have to take the tranny apart and buy a new clutch fork since the actuator is on the other side.

But the bracket that those shops sell is meant to go in the stock location so you don't have to mess with drilling the transmission.
This is absolutely correct. I did mine with the 993 Euro GT2 parts, as the EVO kit was not developed at that time. We had to replace the fork with a mirror reverse 993 version, tap the case on the other side, etc...with the transmission out. The EVO kit eliminates the need to do it that way and can be done without dropping the transmission.

Here are pictures of the OEM and GT2 slaves and the OEM fork. Once completed, a rubber grommet seals the original hole on the left...

 
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  #57  
Old 07-12-2010, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by jimmy k
I have the Evoms kit but have not installed it yet. I think I have the high pitched whine when I coast to a stop, but I'm still in gear. Does this mean power steering pump is about to go also?
If the whine goes away immediately after you step on the clutch, then probably you have the resonating valve problem in power steering tank. When I did the conversion the whine went away.

Ed
 
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