HELP..Oil feed pipe
#16
Thanks Frank,, just confirming what my thoughts were
I am going to remove intercoolers today and lower the engine, i have found a slide hammer from when i did cars years ago, so going to give that a try.
Fingers crossed
Cheers Tim
I am going to remove intercoolers today and lower the engine, i have found a slide hammer from when i did cars years ago, so going to give that a try.
Fingers crossed
Cheers Tim
#17
Let us know how you get on.
Whats the score with your Turbos? You said they need an overhaul??
If your thinking of modding later on now might be the time to look at some hybrid turbos. I didn't listen when I did mine, now I have new K16's when I should have gone for K24 18g's or even K16 16g hybrids. Too late now.
CR Turbos http://www.crturbos.co.uk/ are great. I have known Vince on and off for 20 years. Very trustworthy guy. Have a chat with him about re-con or upgraded Turbos. Say hi from me...
ps I am not affiliated in any way to CR Turbos.
Frank.
#18
Yes i only have had a breif look at the turbos, but they need a full overhaul..
Wastgate rod snapped & wastegate seized,think i will have originals done to 16g spec.
What does this involve.
I am going to drill and tap the bush.
You mentioned before that once lowered i can remove jack, will it be ok to leave for a few days in the lowered position with no jack???
Thanks
Tim
Wastgate rod snapped & wastegate seized,think i will have originals done to 16g spec.
What does this involve.
I am going to drill and tap the bush.
You mentioned before that once lowered i can remove jack, will it be ok to leave for a few days in the lowered position with no jack???
Thanks
Tim
#19
Yes i only have had a breif look at the turbos, but they need a full overhaul..
Wastgate rod snapped & wastegate seized,think i will have originals done to 16g spec.
What does this involve.
I am going to drill and tap the bush.
You mentioned before that once lowered i can remove jack, will it be ok to leave for a few days in the lowered position with no jack???
Thanks
Tim
Wastgate rod snapped & wastegate seized,think i will have originals done to 16g spec.
What does this involve.
I am going to drill and tap the bush.
You mentioned before that once lowered i can remove jack, will it be ok to leave for a few days in the lowered position with no jack???
Thanks
Tim
I had the same problem with Turbos. Rod snapped and waste gate completely seized.
Vince can repair the westgate as well.
I believe the 16g's retain the original turbine but have a larger compressor. Quick spool up , less lag, but more overall air flow and more power with the correct tune/exhausts/cats etc.
I am not going to be able to answer for an couple of hours. We are a large Guest house so we have 16 beds do do before 4pm. I will log on then.
Good luck and will catch up later.
If you are really stuck phone me, I carry a phone all day for bookings.
01389 750282
Frank.
#20
Hi Frank
No joy, had to remove the complete housing from the car, not sure nom if i will need to buy a new one or get pipe end removed and repaired.
Was there a brass sleeve in the housing for the pipe to slot into? or was it just the ally.
Cheers Tim
No joy, had to remove the complete housing from the car, not sure nom if i will need to buy a new one or get pipe end removed and repaired.
Was there a brass sleeve in the housing for the pipe to slot into? or was it just the ally.
Cheers Tim
#21
What happened, did you try tapping or drilling?
Try taking a picture
The coller has the oil pipe silver soldered into it all the way through from one end to the other. Looks like a brazed join Could even be braised. That's what you are most likely looking at. The whole coller.
For instance if you drilled into the coller first you would drill out the oil pipe, then the silver solder/brass looking metal, then you will be into the coller ie the 16mm sleeve type metal that I pictured with the 2 O ring grooves in it.
The oil pipe does not go directly into the pump housing The pipe is manufactured in 2 parts. The Pipe and the coller then brazed/ silver soldered together.
Just how far have you got. Did you drill??
The coller as I am calling it is the large metal item with the o ring grooves in it. I am holding it by the oil pipe on the pictures I posted. ( it is stainless steel as well)
Frank.
ps if you cant post a picture on the forum e-mail it direct as an attachment to enquiries@sunnysidebb.co.uk.
#23
Hi Frank
I drilled a hole and tried the slide hammer with a M8 size thread this eventally pulled out.
Tried to drill a bit bigger to M10 but angle was to steep and only went in a small amount.
Then tried to drill the side of the collar with a small pilot drill to see if i could break the seal again no joy.
I am pulling my hair out at this time so decided to see if other side would move due to wanting to refurb both turbos....
Have a guess what solid.
Thats when i removed the whole housing and think i will get it machine drilled somewhere.
Oh !!! the side with two oil pipes the larger diameter one come out a treat.
I drilled a hole and tried the slide hammer with a M8 size thread this eventally pulled out.
Tried to drill a bit bigger to M10 but angle was to steep and only went in a small amount.
Then tried to drill the side of the collar with a small pilot drill to see if i could break the seal again no joy.
I am pulling my hair out at this time so decided to see if other side would move due to wanting to refurb both turbos....
Have a guess what solid.
Thats when i removed the whole housing and think i will get it machine drilled somewhere.
Oh !!! the side with two oil pipes the larger diameter one come out a treat.
#24
Hi Frank
I drilled a hole and tried the slide hammer with a M8 size thread this eventally pulled out.
Tried to drill a bit bigger to M10 but angle was to steep and only went in a small amount.
Then tried to drill the side of the collar with a small pilot drill to see if i could break the seal again no joy.
I am pulling my hair out at this time so decided to see if other side would move due to wanting to refurb both turbos....
Have a guess what solid.
That's when i removed the whole housing and think i will get it machine drilled somewhere.
Oh !!! the side with two oil pipes the larger diameter one come out a treat.
I drilled a hole and tried the slide hammer with a M8 size thread this eventally pulled out.
Tried to drill a bit bigger to M10 but angle was to steep and only went in a small amount.
Then tried to drill the side of the collar with a small pilot drill to see if i could break the seal again no joy.
I am pulling my hair out at this time so decided to see if other side would move due to wanting to refurb both turbos....
Have a guess what solid.
That's when i removed the whole housing and think i will get it machine drilled somewhere.
Oh !!! the side with two oil pipes the larger diameter one come out a treat.
Now you have the pump assembly off an engineering company will have no problem removing the other pipe.
You can buy the assembly and the oil pipes from Porsche . Not cheep but available.
How hard did you find it to remove the Turbo oil return pump and water pump housing. You have done well to get it off. It was a worry of mine if all failed. I wasn't sure if the alternator had to come off for the water pipes underneath it??
Frank
Last edited by Frank ( Sunnyside ); 07-11-2010 at 11:30 AM. Reason: Extra info
#25
Not stripped anything from the housing yet, i assume you are talking about the small pump right at the bottom of the housing !
(runs from a gear in the block)
I am going to put on a new water pump whilst all is off.
I am worried about the side i have drilled though hope an engineering company will sort or may have to buy new one which i think will not be cheap.
(runs from a gear in the block)
I am going to put on a new water pump whilst all is off.
I am worried about the side i have drilled though hope an engineering company will sort or may have to buy new one which i think will not be cheap.
#26
Not stripped anything from the housing yet, i assume you are talking about the small pump right at the bottom of the housing !
(runs from a gear in the block)
I am going to put on a new water pump whilst all is off.
I am worried about the side i have drilled though hope an engineering company will sort or may have to buy new one which i think will not be cheap.
(runs from a gear in the block)
I am going to put on a new water pump whilst all is off.
I am worried about the side i have drilled though hope an engineering company will sort or may have to buy new one which i think will not be cheap.
Once the old bit of coller/pipe is out you will know the extent of any damage if any. To be honest I think a good engineering company could put a sleeve in it. All its got to do is seal against the o rings. Luckily its a simple hole. I'm sure you wont have to go to the extent of buying a new one. Keep my fingers crossed for you.
Let me know how you get on.
Frank
#28
No Problems Tim . I feel for you as I have just had the same thing not 2 months ago.
Its a shame the pipe broke when you tried to pull it out the first time.
Its hard to believe that 2 rubber O rings can be such a Git....
Let us know how you get on.
Frank
Its a shame the pipe broke when you tried to pull it out the first time.
Its hard to believe that 2 rubber O rings can be such a Git....
Let us know how you get on.
Frank
#30
I have had a Miltek Sports with 100 cell cats. Wasn't too impressed to start with but It is growing on me more and more. I posted my disappointment about it a month ago and was told after time they sound great. Its true it is starting to sound good. Not too loud but nice. Cold start up has a magnificent sound. Mid band power and pull is much better. It really is.
I bought it from Design 911 : http://www.design911.co.uk/default.aspx
Not to expensive and I haven't ( touch wood had a CEL light due to the 100 cell cats). I have had a Revo Technic Stage 2 program done as well.
Frank.