I noticed that my oil feed pipe was fractured and had a small leak.
I removed from the tank on the turbo, But the other end which goes into the block will not budge.
Due to trying the pipe has broken off now and a brass sleeve is exposed.
Has anyone had this problem, i am at a loss of what to do next.
Please help..
Cheers
Tim

 

Hi Tim,


OH YES, unfortunately I do.


First there are 3 Turbo oil pipes. On goes to the Turbo ( oil feed) Another comes from the top of the engine area and is a Vent and the 3rd goes backwards to the rear of the car and is Oil return.

Is the pipe you are talking about the 3rd one I have mentioned.

The other 2 are easy to do.

If it is the oil return pipe it goes to the Turbo oil return pump/water pump housing ( you have called it the block. It is not). It is a B$tch to get off.
This is very important. How much pipe have you got sticking out of the pump housing? Can you post a picture.

The pipe is held on with a flat plate that is silver soldered onto the pipe . There is an M6 bolt holding it . Which side of the car do you have the problem. I ask because the right hand side has 2 pipes. The second and largest pipe is the output form the Turbo oil return pump and returns oil to the sump.
Either way. The Turboil oil return pipe just pushes into the pump housing and has 2 rubber o rings on it. Once you have removed the M6 bolt there is nothing but Stiction holding the pipe in. Years of Aluminium crud has built up behind the o rings and you are going to have to Pull the pipe out using a Puller. I made mine.
That's enought for now.
I had to do all my Turbo oil pipes 2 months ago, so dont worry , it can be done and Porsche stock the pipes.
Frank.

 

Thanks Frank
It is the third pipe that goes to the rear of the engine, and it is the one with a single pipe.
It has vertually nothing it fractured right at the end.
Can i drill it, although it will be dificult to get a drill in there.
Does it have a brass bush that stays in the pump and a brass bush on the pipe?
Thanks

 

Ok , not good but all is not lost.

The pipe is say 16mm od. However the bit that goes into the housing is bigger . I'm not im my workshop, but I keep anything and everything. A bit of a Magpie you might say. I will take a picture for you later and post it.

Both sides on my car required pulling. However I have been building rally cars and restoring Classic VW split Screens for years so I just knew when to stop wiggling the pipe and move onto something more substantial.
I cut the pipes 2 inches from the housing. Welded a 13mm 50mm stud into the pipe. Put a heavy walled tube over the lot. A big washer on top and a 13mm nut on top of that and made a puller. I slowly 1/2 turn at atime wound down the nut applying a small amount of localised heat and tapped the tube at the same time. As the Pipe moves the nut becomes slack so you takes another 1/2 turn.

You wont be able to do it if you dont have enough pipe sticking out.
I was worried about the pipe breaking like yours, so my contingency plan was to use a flexi drive and a drill and slowly using increasing Drill bits drill it to within a mm.
The rubber o rings sit in machined grooves so I recon that you will start to drill the rubber o rings before you damage the Housing.
I am going to have to post you the picture so you can understand.
That's it for now.
Frank

 

Thankyou Frank i will await your pic.
Tim

 

Excuse the pictures I, no David Bailey. LOL

 

Hi Frank
Is this the end of the pipe and is it brass.
Does this push directly into the ally on the pump housing.
Approx 16mm dia
Thanks
Tim

 

Can you see what I mean about the O ring grooves.
Luckily i didn't have to drill. You are going to have to be very careful. Two person Job. If you damage the hole in the housing it will have to be a new one as well. Even thats not an engine out job . I looked at the w/hop manual and I think its a world of PAIN.
If you drill it once most of the metal has been removed it might...and I say might come lose. If not you will have to pick at it slowly once you have the Coler wall ultra thin.

If you can get a mechanic or engineer to see if they can get anything in the Coler and pipe so you can pull it out before you start to drill.

My other plan was to Tap a thread into the coler/pipe and screw he 13mm stud directly into it and use my puller .
frank

Send a picture if you can.
Frank.

 

Yes its the end that goes into the pump housing with 2 rubber o rings onto it and is also Stainless Steel. The locking tab is removed. I had to chisel it off so I could rest the thick walled pipe directly onto the pump housing. However its not brass. What looks like a brass ring is where the oil pipe has been silver soldered into the coller. ie the oil pipe is sleeved and soldered into the large coller which is also stainless steel.

 

Thanks again Frank
Drilling scares me as i do not want swarf to get into oil.
Did you remove the mounting plate at the rear of the car to gain some more room.
I am thinking of tapping the bush and get a puller or to drill and try and pick it out.
You are right if i can get the rubber seals free it may come loose.

 

Yes, the best way is to drop the engine at the back. Have you done this before. Its not hard but long winded as you are going to have to remove your silencers. This will have to be be another post.
If you take this to Porsche they are going milk you good and proper. Your car is off the road. Bite the bullet and if your willing go for it. Do it in stages. Don't get ahead of your self and dont think or worry too far ahead or you might feel like slitting your wrists. It looks such a daunting job, but broken down into little jobs , its not so bad.

so....
Remove the engine cradle/mounting plate. 4 bolts. Very important, once the cradle/engine plate is removed put the 4 bolts back in. The Oil/water pump housing is also held on the back of the engine with the same bolts. Do not start working on the oil pipe unless you have the 4 bolts securing the housing. You could damage the oil pump drive, seals and both water pipe seals under the car if it move too much.
You will have much much better access to the pipe.

First,
Trawl 6 for dropping the rear of the engine. There are posts out there showing how to do it. If you can find it its better than me writing a long post on it. You want it this year I presume.LOL
You can also make a new post asking for info as to dropping the engine for access. I bet there will be loads of replies with links that come back to you.
I will also have a look.
Once you have a plan contact me again.
If I can help you in any way just ask.
Frank

 

Hi
I have removed the exhaust and want to remove the turbos also as they need an overhaul.
I have not however dropped the engine.
There is a plate at the rear what is this do..Is it a mount for the rear of the engine and is this where the water and oil seals are that you mentioned.
Cheers Tim

 

Ah well your half way there already.LOL
There are 2 plates the smaller one which the silencer was attached too which is also bolted with the same 4 bolts to the much bigger Ally plate. Which is the engine cradle. This supports the engine and the engine mounts bolt onto it.

1. You are going to have to remove the Air Filter box. 1 bolt and MAF housing. The MAF housing is not necessary but I did. Reduce the possibility of damage and dirt.
2. Unclip the boost hoses ( x2) from the Y piece. Reduces strain on then.
3. You must support the front of the engine with a trolley jack. It cant fall out as there is an engine check stop under the bell housing. But when you undo the 2 engine mounts you dont want the engine dropping the 4 inches or so.
4. Look to either side of the car at the top edges of the engine cradle plate ( From underneath) You will see the engine mounts. The nuts are I think 17mm. Don't forget you are going to have to support the engine with a trolley jack and a block of wood. Once the engine is supported undo and remove the 2 nuts.
5. Slowly lower the Jack. The engine will slowly drop down. Stop each inch and check inside the engine bay for any tight wires , pipes etc. There shouldn't be. Your exhaust and O2 sensors should be off. I presume you might also have removed your inter coolers. If you intend to take your Turbos off them removing the inter coolers make the job an order of magnitude easier.
6. Undo the 4 bolts remove the plate and replace the bolts.
You now have access to the pipes. You can now remove the trolley jack. The engine is safe.
Oh yes, the turbo oil pump housing is sandwiched between the cradle/ engine support plate and the block and is kept in place with those 4 bolts that you took out when removing the cradle.
Frank

 

Thanks Franks
Thought it was this, When you say front of engine is that gearbox end or cradle end which is being removed.
Thanks
Tim

 

Hi Tim,
Don't you just love engines that are the wrong way round.
I think I must change my description every few minutes..

In this case the front of the engine being at the Cradle which will lower. The rear of the engine with the gearbox will not drop and will sit in the engine check bracket.
Sorry for any confusion. Most of my cars have had the engine in the correct place. Its only Dr Porsche who could get away with it at the rear.
Frank.