Pagid Yellows not suitable for Road Use
#16
07-12-2010, 03:04 AM
I run the RS29's on my car, no problems. The odd squeal doesn't bother me, however I've logged a 2 day track session on them. They suck when you first stick them on, they'll get better
#18
07-12-2010, 05:58 AM
#19
07-12-2010, 08:36 AM
But don't you think that the vendor should be held somewhat accountable IF he informed the customer that they would be fine for the street with no squealing? TO me, that would be telling the customer what they wanted to hear just for a sale. We go to these vendors because they are supposed to be able to guide us with thier expertise.
#20
07-12-2010, 10:15 AM
But don't you think that the vendor should be held somewhat accountable IF he informed the customer that they would be fine for the street with no squealing? TO me, that would be telling the customer what they wanted to hear just for a sale. We go to these vendors because they are supposed to be able to guide us with thier expertise.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ght=brake+pads
Last edited by landjet; 07-12-2010 at 11:19 AM.
#22
07-12-2010, 11:34 AM
Richard please PM me your invoice number and/or last name so I can look up the order.
If a customer asks for a good aggressive street pad that they may do about 1 track day every 3-6 months, I recommend the RS29 Yellow front and rear. They are the OEM in the GT3. I never recommend the RS19 for street. They are intended for the track. They can be used on the street but will squeal. For track guys, I recommend the RS19 yellow front and the RS14 black rear to give more bite as 70% of the braking is done in front. I would not run blacks on the front for a weekend racer as it would chew through the rotor.
As far as the squealing goes... I am pretty honest and straight forward in my recommendations, but noise of any kind is subjective. Some people the smallest rattles give them hell. In your situation, did you bed them in properly, do you have grease on the backing plates? Let me know what I can do.
Thanks!
If a customer asks for a good aggressive street pad that they may do about 1 track day every 3-6 months, I recommend the RS29 Yellow front and rear. They are the OEM in the GT3. I never recommend the RS19 for street. They are intended for the track. They can be used on the street but will squeal. For track guys, I recommend the RS19 yellow front and the RS14 black rear to give more bite as 70% of the braking is done in front. I would not run blacks on the front for a weekend racer as it would chew through the rotor.
As far as the squealing goes... I am pretty honest and straight forward in my recommendations, but noise of any kind is subjective. Some people the smallest rattles give them hell. In your situation, did you bed them in properly, do you have grease on the backing plates? Let me know what I can do.
Thanks!
#24
07-12-2010, 01:06 PM
Dan I will send you the order dets tom. and regarding installation (OEM Porsche dealer as mentioned they know what they are doing, have fitted my upgraded Turbos etc) , bedding in and noise I am not a wuss as am running 2 Ferraris with Tubi's and have a 70 MM exhaust on my TT, I will give them another 300 miles and if there is no significant improvement after further bedding in, they are coming off, as I simply don't believe they are OEM GT3 as NOBODY would deal with this. As I regularly commute in the TT its the traffic lights which do it before 7 am, it creates so much noise I might as well have a blue flashing light on top of the car. I don't do track days but have Ceramics on both Ferraris and so like decent brakes......I have PAG E-2474-RS290 10 Fronts & PAG E -2405-RS290 10 Rears and principally I need YOU or PAGID to explain why I have the ORANGE insert with the RS29's NOT SUITABLE FOR ROAD USE, when the are apparently OEM road use GT3, that's the answer I need OFFICIALLY please
Last edited by RCH; 07-12-2010 at 01:12 PM.
#25
07-12-2010, 01:10 PM
A mod sent me this thread to comment on. If you reread it, I am here to help, so dont get angry. I was only making suggestions. As far as the install, I am again asking questions. Dealerships make their fair share of mistakes too.
Proper "bed in" procedure for street and race brake pads per StopTech -
Bedding-in Street Performance Pads
For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.
As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
Bedding-in Club Race or Full Race Pads
For a typical performance brake system using race pads, the bed-in procedure must be somewhat more aggressive, as higher temperatures need to be reached, in order to bring certain brands of pad material up to their full race potential.
We typically recommend a set of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, followed immediately by three or four partial braking events, from 80mph down to 10mph. Alternately, a set of eleven stops, from 80mph to 40mph, or a set of seven stops, from 100mph to 50mph, would be approximately the same. As with street pads, each of the partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Again, depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat about halfway through the first set of stops. This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in, except where race-ready pads are being used. This phenomenon is the same as that which occurs with high-performance or street pads (except that, when race-ready pads are used, they do not exhibit green fade, and they will be bedded-in after just one complete set of stops).
As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when the recommended number of stops has been performed - not before. As a general rule, it would be better to perform additional stops, than not enough. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied.
After cooling the vehicle, a second set of the recommended number of stops should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
Racers will note that, when a pad is bedded-in properly, there will be approximately 2mm (0.1 inch) of the pad edge near the rotor, on which the paint will have turned to ash, or the color of the pad will have changed to look as though it has been overheated.
In summary, the key to successfully bedding-in performance brakes is to bring the pads up to their operating temperature range, in a controlled manner, and to keep them there long enough to start the pad material transfer process. Different brake system designs, pad types, and driving conditions require different procedures to achieve a successful bed-in. The procedures recommended above should provide a useful starting point for developing bed-in procedures appropriate to individual applications.
Proper "bed in" procedure for street and race brake pads per StopTech -
Bedding-in Street Performance Pads
For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.
As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
Bedding-in Club Race or Full Race Pads
For a typical performance brake system using race pads, the bed-in procedure must be somewhat more aggressive, as higher temperatures need to be reached, in order to bring certain brands of pad material up to their full race potential.
We typically recommend a set of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, followed immediately by three or four partial braking events, from 80mph down to 10mph. Alternately, a set of eleven stops, from 80mph to 40mph, or a set of seven stops, from 100mph to 50mph, would be approximately the same. As with street pads, each of the partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Again, depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat about halfway through the first set of stops. This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in, except where race-ready pads are being used. This phenomenon is the same as that which occurs with high-performance or street pads (except that, when race-ready pads are used, they do not exhibit green fade, and they will be bedded-in after just one complete set of stops).
As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when the recommended number of stops has been performed - not before. As a general rule, it would be better to perform additional stops, than not enough. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied.
After cooling the vehicle, a second set of the recommended number of stops should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
Racers will note that, when a pad is bedded-in properly, there will be approximately 2mm (0.1 inch) of the pad edge near the rotor, on which the paint will have turned to ash, or the color of the pad will have changed to look as though it has been overheated.
In summary, the key to successfully bedding-in performance brakes is to bring the pads up to their operating temperature range, in a controlled manner, and to keep them there long enough to start the pad material transfer process. Different brake system designs, pad types, and driving conditions require different procedures to achieve a successful bed-in. The procedures recommended above should provide a useful starting point for developing bed-in procedures appropriate to individual applications.
#26
07-12-2010, 01:18 PM
Yes I have read the PAGID website on bedding in and will keep trying, the question I need answering is I need YOU or PAGID to explain why I have the ORANGE insert with the RS29's NOT SUITABLE FOR ROAD USE, when the are apparently OEM ROAD USE GT3, that's the answer I simply need officially please
#29
07-12-2010, 02:08 PM
Please send me the email to dan@vividracing.com and then we can correspond there. I can help facilitate anything possible.
#30
07-12-2010, 03:57 PM
Right the stock pad for a GT3 is a P90 Pad by Porsche, it is a Pagid compound but they are not the same as a RS19 or 29, they do not squeal anything like a RS19 or 29 either.
Here is a pics of the stock pad
