Differences between brands of billet DVs?
#33
Flashiness is not of importance. Functionality is the important part. I'm not sure I want the engine bay looking a lot different than Stock anyway. How long have you run the upgraded Bosch ones? Do you have a part number for them?
#34
I wonder which are better the evoms or bosch version.. whats the price point on the bosch? the evoms ones are $280
#36
If the better Bosch DV is the one what I think it is, it is the Bosch 710N DV. If that is the case they are cheaper than the evoms. I could be wrong though.
#39
+ 10 on this...out of the blue my car started experiencing an audible boost leak last friday that put my car in limp mode (.4 boost max). Got home, checked every possible hose and fitting (especially the ic boost hoses), and found nothing). Then made myself a plug and compressor fitting to plug the intake hole just after the mass airflow system (using instructions from a thread on this site), pressurized the system, and in about 10 seconds diagnosed a massive hole on the inside of my f-hose. It was only 18 months old!
#40
I'll probably have them installed later this week or next.
The part number on the box is 0 280 142 114.
#41
As far as testing for failures, you can't always tell by leak testing the boost side. Bad diverter valves often leak test fine on the boost side of things, but if you vacuum test the diaphram(small nipple), that is where the leak usually is. What will happen sometimes is that when you test the boost or vaccum side while the car is at rest, all of the vacuum valves may be closed off and if you have a leak in the diaphram it will leak to the boost side of things. If your boost system is tight you won't see a diaphram/vacuum leak becuase it is just leaking to the boost side and equalizing and not leaking to the atmosphere. If you test the boost side, you will equalize the boost side to the vacuum system that may have the check valves to stop it from leaking to the atmosphere.The best was to test DVs is with a boost hose(from the respective side you are testing) off to induce a leak. This is so that if you have a leak it is not just equalizing over to the opposite system(boost or vacuum), but instead leaking to the atmosphere. Then check the vacuum line(small nipple) with a mity vac or other vacuum pump. From my experiences the bosch ones don't really fail much on the boost side, just the actuation side(vacuum). Billet DVs have their + and - too. You do have to clean and lube them because they can get dry and bind up causing CELs and other issues. Hopefully that is helpful.
Last edited by VAGscum; 07-21-2010 at 06:59 AM.