When I had this issue, it turned out to be an air leak after the maf and before the turbos. Do a pressure test. Several DIY articles on this forum about how to do that.

The metal plate inside the plastic recess at the bottom of the maf is the sensor. The wire with the resistor on it is for temperature measurement.

Jon

 

Copy that, will do on TB cleaning. The symptoms have progressed, btw. Now I am getting no start at all as if there is no fuel (turns over, good battery etc.), I can hear the pump cycle, but then I am also now hearing what sounds like a solenoid popping sound right at the fuel tank access (all trim under the boot has been removed so it is easy to hear). I let it sit over night and I am going to double check the symptoms here shortly - but approaching 65k miles, sudden onset of issues, I am thinking fuel pump now. Dealership is saying about $630 on the pump with a VW special tool 3217 spanner wrench $100 - hoping to rent that one from a local auto shop. Any ideas on after market fuel pumps as far as quality and/or price? or factory replacement best way to go? Thoughts?

The work on this one looks straight forward from the shop diagrams I have. After accessing the pump, you stand in the boot, light a cigar and think about what to do next? ;-)

 

Just tried to start it up cold, turns over fine, absolutely no start at all, not even a sputter.

 

Well, now as you say it seems that your problem is at the fuel pump. Many of us have had a problem with the fuel pump that does not require a new pump. One of the hoses has been known to split. It sprays all of the pumped fuel in the tank, so nothing goes to the motor. It's usually progressive.

You really don't need a $100 spanner to open up the fuel tank. First, disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. Next, take a photo of the fuel tank just in case you forget what goes where. Carefully remove the fuel lines - press in the little tab and gently pull. Have a rag handy to catch the little bit of fuel that spills. Use masking tape to index the black ring to the white top. Gently tap the ring with a screwdriver and hammer to loosen it, then unscrew it. Now, gently work out the top.

Look inside the tank with a flashlight and see if the black U-shaped hose is split. If it is, that is all you need. Much less expensive than a new pump. You can't use standard fuel line though, because it is submerged. I don't recall the size, but I am pretty sure that it's one of these two:
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?br...ocation_id=541
O'reilly's and Jeg's have it.

Hope this helps,

Jon

 

I did a how to on this, search on the forum, there are a million threads on this

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-pictures.html

 

Nice - I will check that hose first. I was wondering about the screwdriver tapping instead of a spanner to loosen that nut, good to know it works!