996 Turbo engine builders?
#1
996 Turbo engine builders?
I am considering a rebuild on my 996 turbo, I am told I am at the limits of my rods with my current mods, am considering a rebuild to strengthen the motor and add a bit more power as well.
I am thinking of 800-900wheel hp (more if I can swing it) and will need pump (91oct at 6500' asl) and race tunes. I am not looking for a state of the art build that costs $50-60k+, takes 2+ years to complete and can only be supported by that particular builder.
Does anyone have any recommendations and some lessons learned?
I am thinking of 800-900wheel hp (more if I can swing it) and will need pump (91oct at 6500' asl) and race tunes. I am not looking for a state of the art build that costs $50-60k+, takes 2+ years to complete and can only be supported by that particular builder.
Does anyone have any recommendations and some lessons learned?
#2
Lots of lessons learned here, as I'm one of the very few to have completed more than one build (a major one and a minor one).
Keep in mind that the stock rods are proving to be good to over 900rwhp, but the Pauters are no doubt stronger and will provide more protection. It really comes down to whether or not you want to spend the money on a build.
If you do, but only want to stick to the absolute basics, then I recommend Pauter rods and new OEM lifters (with the newest part #'s). If you want to go further, a little headwork is about all you need. Stick with the stock pistons, stock displacement, stock liners and stock headstuds. There's absolutely no need to mess with anything else for your purposes.
Should cost you around $15k - $20k.
Keep in mind that the stock rods are proving to be good to over 900rwhp, but the Pauters are no doubt stronger and will provide more protection. It really comes down to whether or not you want to spend the money on a build.
If you do, but only want to stick to the absolute basics, then I recommend Pauter rods and new OEM lifters (with the newest part #'s). If you want to go further, a little headwork is about all you need. Stick with the stock pistons, stock displacement, stock liners and stock headstuds. There's absolutely no need to mess with anything else for your purposes.
Should cost you around $15k - $20k.
Last edited by Divexxtreme; 07-20-2010 at 02:31 PM.
#3
I just went through a build myself after blowing a headgasket. All I did was replace the rods (w/o splitting the case), Evo head studs, and all factory gaskets replaced. You will also want to weld in the coolant fittings that are prone to coming out. You can also replace the intake manifolds with 997 units which flow better than the 996 plenums.
If you are looking to do 8-900whp you also need to plan in doing a $$ Tilton clutch and have a built transmission. Slippery slope
Like Scott says, plan on spending 15-20K and dont expect it to be done quickly.
If you are looking to do 8-900whp you also need to plan in doing a $$ Tilton clutch and have a built transmission. Slippery slope
Like Scott says, plan on spending 15-20K and dont expect it to be done quickly.
Last edited by dgreen78; 07-20-2010 at 04:24 PM.
#4
I would reccomend a couple people, first would NOT be Akram in Houston Tx. Next Todd at protomotive does builds. And also bbi can do them.
Alex at Max RPM Built my 1000whp motor
Rods stock displacement with some head work can easily run into 30k so just be careful what you are ready for.
Labor on the build is generally 100-130 hrs at 100$ an hr it adds up quick
Alex at Max RPM Built my 1000whp motor
Rods stock displacement with some head work can easily run into 30k so just be careful what you are ready for.
Labor on the build is generally 100-130 hrs at 100$ an hr it adds up quick
Last edited by OS Inspector; 02-23-2016 at 08:06 PM.
#6
do some rods, good head studs, leave the head alone and call it a day...
800rwhp all day long...
800rwhp all day long...
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2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
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2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL
#7
Do yourself a favor and go with a good set of rods. After you determine which ones are good do yourself another favor and check the rod weight of those manufacturer's you have narrowed your choices to. The one rod mentioned above weight wise is like dragging a trailer around with you when running the bases ....... so to speak. They are a strong rod ....... but heavy. You then can look at price and come to the best buy for the dollars you want to spend. I have utilized most if not all of the rods available for our engines at one time or another. There are equally strong rods available which are far lighter. Do your homework first and it will pay off in a faster responding motor.
The reciprocating weight has everything to do with your engine response. Imagine a rod that is 10 grams lighter. 10 grams times 6 rods times let's say 6000 rpm's. You get and idea now as to how much less reciprocating weight your engine has to lug around.
The reciprocating weight has everything to do with your engine response. Imagine a rod that is 10 grams lighter. 10 grams times 6 rods times let's say 6000 rpm's. You get and idea now as to how much less reciprocating weight your engine has to lug around.
Last edited by cjv; 07-20-2010 at 07:52 PM.
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#9
My two cents, Bluey was built in 2007 by Akram who now owns Motorwerks. The car was a basic build except for the cams that were design by Todd Knighton. It uses ARP 8mm studs, Pauter rods, CP pistons, the original turbo crank and modified 3.8 liter one off head gaskets. The car has 15,000 miles since that build, has seen over 1100 RWHP and the only thing that has broke... well actually everything except the motor! I think it would be wise to PM everyone who has built a motor, then siph through the feed back which should give you unbiased answers to all your questions.
Robert
Robert
#10
My two cents, Bluey was built in 2007 by Akram who now owns Motorwerks. The car was a basic build except for the cams that were design by Todd Knighton. It uses ARP 8mm studs, Pauter rods, CP pistons, the original turbo crank and modified 3.8 liter one off head gaskets. The car has 15,000 miles since that build, has seen over 1100 RWHP and the only thing that has broke... well actually everything except the motor! I think it would be wise to PM everyone who has built a motor, then siph through the feed back which should give you unbiased answers to all your questions.
Robert
Robert
I have used Carillo, Pauter, Arrow Precision, Ruf and Pankl (before they bought Carrillo). I would stay with steel for big street hp. Steel rods will work well with big power where you don't want to do regular scheduled tear downs....... the difference is the weight of the rod and the cost of the rod.
Last edited by cjv; 07-25-2010 at 08:26 PM.
#13
If I remember correctly the Pauter was the most inexpensive, but also the heaviest. Pauter and Carrillo were real close price wise. Pauter was a little cheaper. If I remember correctly I was paying somewhere between $1450.00 and $1600.00 for Pauter and Carrillo. The Arrow Precision were about $2.400.00 however they were far lighter.
Again, you really need to look at the weight per rod and buy the lightest rod you can afford. All these rods will hold up to the big hp. It's the engine response you are paying for. I know the AP rods weighs about 370 grams per rod. I believe Pauter is about 545 grams per rod. Don't remember what the weight of Carrillo is. Maybe someone has the current weights.
Again, you really need to look at the weight per rod and buy the lightest rod you can afford. All these rods will hold up to the big hp. It's the engine response you are paying for. I know the AP rods weighs about 370 grams per rod. I believe Pauter is about 545 grams per rod. Don't remember what the weight of Carrillo is. Maybe someone has the current weights.
Last edited by cjv; 07-21-2010 at 10:06 AM.
#14
Chad,
What is the weight of the OEM rods?
What is the weight of the OEM rods?
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991.2 GT3 RS Weissach Racing Yellow
991.2 Turbo S GT Silver
991.2 GT3 Chalk (Manual)
2022 Cayenne White
former 1972 911T white, 1984 911 3.2 Targa black, 993 cab white, 993TT arena red, 993TT silver, 996TT speed yellow, 991.1 GT3 white
www.speedtechexhausts.com
info@speedtechexhausts.com
Testimonials facebook SpeedTech Exhaust Videos