I use the ones TRG sells. they have a shoulder that will need to be turned down a tad to hold the rotor in place. I had the rear rotors rotate on sheer off the heads off the locating screws.. The factory bolts left thread imprints on the rotors.. fronts too. Put the studs in and was very happy. I think arp makes them.

 

I use RUF studs made by H&R. Sold here under H&R "quick-safe" studs. German made, TUV approved. I have over 100 track hours on them without any issues.

 

What lengths are being installed? Let's assume you want to be able to run small wheel spacers, no more than 15mm.

 

This thread is starting to sound like a broken record (for those of you old enough to remember what a "record" is... )

I did the bullet nose studs on my ... wait for it ... track prepped M3 http://gwl.rmsolo.org/M3-FS-pics/index.html

I also had non-bullet nose studs on my Boxster.

No brainer IMHO. Get the bullet nose studs. Much, much easier to run the nuts on.

 

hey all, hate to bring an old thread up but... i think my question may be relevant to this thread

I just ordered bullet nose screw in studs from apex race parts.. however i have a friend who's advocating the use of press-in studs due to any potential issues the screw in studs may bring (in particular, unscrewing. lol).

are there any users on here who's pressed in their studs? is it even an option for 996 owners? (sorry if a dumb a question, i'm coming from japanese cars..)

 

Pretty sure the back of a press-on would hit behind the hub, we've already had some members who's studs stuck too far through have to have them cut down. Don't try to press in studs, unscrewing isn't an issue - wheel bolts don't unscrew and neither should screw in studs.