anyone had any premature clutch wear with this mod?

ive seen it mentioned here and there...sitting around 2 yrs since I did this mod and all seems to be ok with the dgreen bracket and rod.

but my clutch has recently started to slip. :/ around 70k miles daily driven...so this may be considered "normal" . Im not sure yet.


edit: FYI my slave blew out when I was uninstalling everything. With the dgreen setup I was using the OEM clutch, pp and flywheel.

I measured the rod I had(From dgreen) and its 96mm...and looks awfully similar to the Mitsubishi rod mentioned earlier in the thread.
I didnt keep my stock rod...and want the car on the road.
Entertaining a shim/washers to bring the slave a bit closer to the case. Thus making the rod "longer".

 

No idea how my original held 2 yrs.


Was just bleeding and slave blew out.

Dgreen 96mm rod.
764 pp
Gt2 disc
Oem dual mass
Sachs throw out.


I'm going to see about having a custom longer rod made. The slave sits a good 9mm away from the trans.(Even with 2.5mm spacer I used ) That's too much to make up with such a short rod.

 

what do you mean it sits away from the trans 9"? it should sit flush on the trans at the mount and be flush up against the clutch fork. mine has to be pushed in forcefully when bled since it contacts before the slave is fully seated. a stock rod is 102mm i believe

 

9mm ..not inches.


The slave sits flush against the mount..and the fork. Mine had to be pushed in to mount as well...but the slave still has a gap between it and the trans case(the 9mm)...

With the 96mm rod ...its not long enough in my experience. And others in this thread seem to have had issues too. The slave piston pushes too far and pops the cover off. At this point the piston has pushed too far out of the bore. With an oem clutch set up its not far enough to cause a leak, but its operating beyond what it should. As your clutch wears down it can then start to become more of an issue.


When I uninstalled it to do work. It puked its guts out upon unbolting the bracket. (Also mentioned by someone else in this thread when running 92 or 96mm rod lengths).



Upon installing and attempting to bleed a new slave. It immediately blew the cover off. I salvaged it, made my own longer rod.

Spending far too much time dealing with this...I never realized how much these brackets flex when you push the clutch.

 

9mm my bad. but i still dont understand were the 9mm is at. from the slave to the case? are you running the oem tapped case setup or a aftermarket bracket in the oem turbo hole?

 

why would I be posting in the built my own gt2 mod thread if I was running an oem taped case?
that said it didnt even dawn on me to go that route when I had my trans out. doh

 

Having never considered anything but the oem setup for a gt2 i didnt grasp that you had a bracket setup. I now can see why it would be screwed up. Pull it tap dont look back

 

did you read the thread title/any information in this thread?

I think you might be lost. lol

The bracket mod worked perfectly fine for 2 yrs. its only after I pulled it apart to do the clutch that I encountered the issues I described. Running the longer rod now and all works well. Clutch up take has moved up a bit, but so be it.

Clutch actuation feels a lot better with the new clutch gear though. my stock pressure plate had cracks in 3 areas(not all the way through yet) and I can only assume led to the heavier pedal compared to now.

 

How is everyone's car doing on this setup these days?

I see a few of breakfast's notes, wondering if anyone else had any observations?

Looks like the car is due for its second accumulator and likely slave (fluid transfer) at 65k, thinking better pedal feel and reduction of complexity is a win win here.

 

nice write-up. thanks.

 

It's very interesting and thank you to share your experience.

I must do the work in a few days !

I'have a question: why do you remove away the power steering pump? What is the link with this work?

Greetings

Fabrice

 

You have to pull that back cover off the PS pump to remove the socket-like drive coupler that spins the dedicated clutch assist half of the PS pump. Unless you upgrade to a Tiptronic/GT2 pump.

 

OK, but we are forced to do this procedure to install the GT2 conversion kit ??

 

Yes.

 

If I understand correctly, as I looked at the diagrams, I can only cut and plug these 2 hoses that you at the pump without remove the coupler ?

Can it stay like that or I must absolutely to change the pump ?