Did you read my posts over the few pages? I had the same problem and posted all the specs of all the rods including the longer rod I made and the specs of evoms's rod that they supply with their kit. 120mm in length and 8mm in diameter is the length of the evoms rod. That length worked for me when the stock rod blew out my slave. Buy a meter of 304 ss 8mm rod from mcmaster-Carr and cut it to length and round the ends. Too easy.

 

And you're running the dgreen bracket?

 

I just did this mod and the car is def much easier to drive. The clutch starts to bite a little off the floor. The only thing is that the pedal seems very hard. Much harder than any of my other cars, even harder than a GT2 I sat in today. Is this nomal? Shouldn't it feel identical to a GT2? If not, what can I look at?

Thanks in advance

 

I also had some trouble with slave - rod length this past weekend.

I previously had a CM Stg3 with stock Flyehweel and and GT2 slave with DGreen bracket. Worked good, engagement was nice and low. I was using a stock 102.5mm rod.

I recently swaped to a RPS/ERP triple disk setup and the clutch engagement was unbearably high..... literally last 10% of pedal travel if not less.

Tim got an adjustable lenght slave rod from an Aston Martin and modified to work on my car. At first we tried shortening it by 10mm to 92mm and it blew out the clip, then at 96mm it blew out my whole slave cylinder. We had to revert to stock length of 102.5mm. One thing I did do that helped pedal feel alot was completely remove the spring assist from the top of the pedal.

 

no gt2 spring assist spring? Thats what i am going to try at first just curious as to how it will feel. I just installed the factory rod with the dgreen bracket fwiw

 

I just got home after finishing up the entire GT2 slave mod. i even had time to succesfully bleed it. However on the last few pumps i hard a snap and the fluid leaked out from the slave. Seems to be blown. I am using the factory slave rod with a clutchmasters and rs light wieght flywheel. Not sure what length i should use now, Maybe 120mm length that evoms is using. What do you guys suggest? I have to square this away asap as i am entered in the supercarroad trips.com Newport beach rally June 3RD.

 

Mine did exactly the same thing. Definitely go with the 120mm. If you're lucky you might be able to put the slave back together. Just check the seal on the piston and make sure it's not torn, clean everything up and put it back together. I straightened that start clip and then hammered it back into place using a big socket and hammer.

 

Epic bump here for some helpful tips that I had to painfully figure out msyelf.

-Gt2 Slave thread size is 12x1.0 (bubble fitting or an fitting)
this "hunt for the right size " is useless information.

-double check with your local hydraulic places on making this line yourself. I encountered huge problems with quite a few places, that couldnt or wouldnt make me a line. They either didnt have appropriate tubing, the right fittings or couldnt cut the old line off and re crimp it. Or they just wouldnt. Becareful mentioning anything to do with the clutch. YMMV. being vague helps.

At the end of the day you can find a premade line for this specific mod around $100 from many vendors. I would just do this route. It will come to your house. No need to run around to potentially save yourself $40... in the end I ended up using the stock gt2 line with an extension piece I had made. Cost a lot of time and money. (And yes the gt2 line by itself IS too short )

Gbox also stocks the weird voss fitting.

It was one the biggest PITA things Ive had the pleasure of doing and Im not a newb to wrenching.


TAKE THE GOD DAMN STARTER OUT Why this isnt recommended by OP I dont know. It just makes things harder for yourself. Not only does taking the starter out free up space for your arm/hand to help you from that side. It also exposes the inspection cover/hole where you can actually see(with a mirror or taking cell phone pictures) wtf is going on (help guide the rod directly into the cup) and see whether or not you were successful in getting the rod into the cupped section. None of this close your eyes and pray malarkey. Initially I did not do this. I wasnt satisfied I had gotten it done correctly so I went back to double check. good thing I did. It had not taken and I had to redo it. Thank goodness I checked!

The starter comes out so easily I dont know why you wouldnt take the 5 minutes to remove it.


I also removed the drivers seat to give me more room. It was still tight as hell working there. If you are over 5'7 and over 140lbs. Forget trying it with the seat installed.


Also the master's are identical(the one you removed compared to the new one). you could likely flush your old master and use it. The seals would be fine. I still used a new one but it was just something I noticed.


I used dgreens bracket and rod(thanks again!) His rod was sized between the stock gt2 rod and the OEM turbo rod. stock clutch set up.

 

Here is a link to where to buy this fitting.. use a crush washer to seal it to the slave.


http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecID=9338

 

You don't need a crush washer.
The sealing takes place on the angled/chamfered surface near the holes on each end.

 

what up 6speeders. Been a while since my last post. I've been driving around with this mod for the last few years and can say it has been the best mod I've done to the car by far. I have a question to see if making this change even better is available. When in stop and go traffic, I'll once in a while end up killing the engine, I think because the clutch pedal has to be pinned to my floorboard to full disengage. When in that type of traffic i sometimes just let off the gas and am letting out the clutch just a bit too early and the rpms are already not very high. End up killing it and having to do a quick restart. Its not the end of the world, but it would be nice to be able to have the clutch fully disengaged with the pedal an inch or two above where it is now. I'm pretty much using all the parts originally suggested by gearhead. Would a change in the length of the stock rod make a difference? Anyone else have similar experience with this? Thanks for any input you might have! : )

 

rod length won't change anything. sounds like a bit higher idle might be the fix your looking for

 

Thanks 32krazy. I'll see if I can have the tune adjusted for that. If not rod length, is there any method to change the clutch engagement point?

 

different master cylinder or slave itself would change engagement point. thats about it

 

thx again.