About to install Sport Seats in my 996TT...wire harness Question
#1
09-22-2010, 09:28 PM
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 346
Rep Power: 29 
About to install Sport Seats in my 996TT...wire harness Question
I picked up a pair of Sport hard back seats for my 996. These seats came out of a 2004 GT3.
My car currently has the regular seats with memory and heat.
Would the wire harness under the seat be a direct plug and play?
Don't want to run into issues when I do the installation.
TIA!
My car currently has the regular seats with memory and heat.
Would the wire harness under the seat be a direct plug and play?
Don't want to run into issues when I do the installation.
TIA!
#2
09-22-2010, 10:43 PM
I just did the same thing this past weekend. The plug-ins are physically the same but there is a dummy pin in the sport seat plug, center pin of big male plug, assuming yours are manual sliders/power seat back angle, that have to be removed. Just pull it out with long nose pliers. You also need a number 12 torx socket for the bolts.
The connector is a little tricky. There is a clip that slides in and out that doesn't necessarily look like a clip. It looks like a fixed part of the connector. You slide it out to unplug the connector of old seats, and the slide in a little on the rectangular clip while simultaneously pushing the two ends together when putting the new ones in. You will figure that out, you think, when you unplug the old ones, but pay close attention to how you ultimately get them apart, then go back by moving the clip all the way out, then push it in as you push the two connectors together. I found it a bit counter intuitive and frustrating. Needless to say it took me awhile to figure that out. Another tip, put a heavy throw rug or equivalent across the threshold when putting the new seats in. You have to turn and lean the drivers side in particular to get the seat under the steering wheel while clearing the door. It is easy to scratch up the threshold. Don't ask me how I know. Now that I've done it once, I could do it again in 30 minutes, but that's how it always goes. It took me 2 or 3 hours the first time. I'm sure glad I was putting in the lighter seats and taking out the heavy ones.
The power part of the seats should work, even without the key, so check seat back movement as soon as you plug it up and before you put the seat in place. Do that for the second one too, because as Murphy's law states, I checked the first one right away and it worked. Since the second one plugged up the same way, I bolted it in first and naturally it didn't work so I had to take it back out.
I did by mine myself. It would have been a lot easier with a helper, particularly when putting the new seats in and balancing them until you can get them plugged up. If you are by yourself, the harness can be arranged to be long enough by removing the connector from the seat and cutting the tie wrap in the car, so that if you are alone, you can situate the seat on the threshold, leaned back so that the top of the seat rests on the arm rest of the door pocket with the door in the 3/4 open position. Good luck
and hope this helps a little.
The connector is a little tricky. There is a clip that slides in and out that doesn't necessarily look like a clip. It looks like a fixed part of the connector. You slide it out to unplug the connector of old seats, and the slide in a little on the rectangular clip while simultaneously pushing the two ends together when putting the new ones in. You will figure that out, you think, when you unplug the old ones, but pay close attention to how you ultimately get them apart, then go back by moving the clip all the way out, then push it in as you push the two connectors together. I found it a bit counter intuitive and frustrating. Needless to say it took me awhile to figure that out. Another tip, put a heavy throw rug or equivalent across the threshold when putting the new seats in. You have to turn and lean the drivers side in particular to get the seat under the steering wheel while clearing the door. It is easy to scratch up the threshold. Don't ask me how I know. Now that I've done it once, I could do it again in 30 minutes, but that's how it always goes. It took me 2 or 3 hours the first time. I'm sure glad I was putting in the lighter seats and taking out the heavy ones.
The power part of the seats should work, even without the key, so check seat back movement as soon as you plug it up and before you put the seat in place. Do that for the second one too, because as Murphy's law states, I checked the first one right away and it worked. Since the second one plugged up the same way, I bolted it in first and naturally it didn't work so I had to take it back out.
I did by mine myself. It would have been a lot easier with a helper, particularly when putting the new seats in and balancing them until you can get them plugged up. If you are by yourself, the harness can be arranged to be long enough by removing the connector from the seat and cutting the tie wrap in the car, so that if you are alone, you can situate the seat on the threshold, leaned back so that the top of the seat rests on the arm rest of the door pocket with the door in the 3/4 open position. Good luck
and hope this helps a little.
#3
09-22-2010, 11:05 PM
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 346
Rep Power: 29 I just did the same thing this past weekend. The plug-ins are physically the same but there is a dummy pin in the sport seat plug, center pin of big male plug, assuming yours are manual sliders/power seat back angle, that have to be removed. Just pull it out with long nose pliers. You also need a number 12 torx socket for the bolts.
The connector is a little tricky. There is a clip that slides in and out that doesn't necessarily look like a clip. It looks like a fixed part of the connector. You slide it out to unplug the connector of old seats, and the slide in a little on the rectangular clip while simultaneously pushing the two ends together when putting the new ones in. You will figure that out, you think, when you unplug the old ones, but pay close attention to how you ultimately get them apart, then go back by moving the clip all the way out, then push it in as you push the two connectors together. I found it a bit counter intuitive and frustrating. Needless to say it took me awhile to figure that out. Another tip, put a heavy throw rug or equivalent across the threshold when putting the new seats in. You have to turn and lean the drivers side in particular to get the seat under the steering wheel while clearing the door. It is easy to scratch up the threshold. Don't ask me how I know. Now that I've done it once, I could do it again in 30 minutes, but that's how it always goes. It took me 2 or 3 hours the first time. I'm sure glad I was putting in the lighter seats and taking out the heavy ones.
The power part of the seats should work, even without the key, so check seat back movement as soon as you plug it up and before you put the seat in place. Do that for the second one too, because as Murphy's law states, I checked the first one right away and it worked. Since the second one plugged up the same way, I bolted it in first and naturally it didn't work so I had to take it back out.
I did by mine myself. It would have been a lot easier with a helper, particularly when putting the new seats in and balancing them until you can get them plugged up. If you are by yourself, the harness can be arranged to be long enough by removing the connector from the seat and cutting the tie wrap in the car, so that if you are alone, you can situate the seat on the threshold, leaned back so that the top of the seat rests on the arm rest of the door pocket with the door in the 3/4 open position. Good luck and hope this helps a little.
The connector is a little tricky. There is a clip that slides in and out that doesn't necessarily look like a clip. It looks like a fixed part of the connector. You slide it out to unplug the connector of old seats, and the slide in a little on the rectangular clip while simultaneously pushing the two ends together when putting the new ones in. You will figure that out, you think, when you unplug the old ones, but pay close attention to how you ultimately get them apart, then go back by moving the clip all the way out, then push it in as you push the two connectors together. I found it a bit counter intuitive and frustrating. Needless to say it took me awhile to figure that out. Another tip, put a heavy throw rug or equivalent across the threshold when putting the new seats in. You have to turn and lean the drivers side in particular to get the seat under the steering wheel while clearing the door. It is easy to scratch up the threshold. Don't ask me how I know. Now that I've done it once, I could do it again in 30 minutes, but that's how it always goes. It took me 2 or 3 hours the first time. I'm sure glad I was putting in the lighter seats and taking out the heavy ones.
The power part of the seats should work, even without the key, so check seat back movement as soon as you plug it up and before you put the seat in place. Do that for the second one too, because as Murphy's law states, I checked the first one right away and it worked. Since the second one plugged up the same way, I bolted it in first and naturally it didn't work so I had to take it back out.
I did by mine myself. It would have been a lot easier with a helper, particularly when putting the new seats in and balancing them until you can get them plugged up. If you are by yourself, the harness can be arranged to be long enough by removing the connector from the seat and cutting the tie wrap in the car, so that if you are alone, you can situate the seat on the threshold, leaned back so that the top of the seat rests on the arm rest of the door pocket with the door in the 3/4 open position. Good luck
and hope this helps a little.BTW: Did you unplug the battery before swapping the seats to avoid the SRS light?
#4
09-22-2010, 11:07 PM
I didn't since mine was already on, but you should. Dealer only I think can turn off the airbag light. My durametric won't turn it off.
#5
09-22-2010, 11:10 PM
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 346
Rep Power: 29 Thanks again for your help. Hopefully everything goes smoothly tomorrow.
#6
09-23-2010, 07:47 PM
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 346
Rep Power: 29 The power part of the seats should work, even without the key, so check seat back movement as soon as you plug it up and before you put the seat in place. Do that for the second one too, because as Murphy's law states, I checked the first one right away and it worked. Since the second one plugged up the same way, I bolted it in first and naturally it didn't work so I had to take it back out.
I noticed that the harness on the seat has the red male pin on the top right slot while on my car's harness, the female red receiver is on the top left.
Any idea how to move the pin to the right slot?
#7
09-23-2010, 09:26 PM
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 346
Rep Power: 29
So here's a picture of what I'm referring to. This is the harness on the driver seat.
The area where there are 6 circular wholes, the male plug at the top left needs to be moved to the top right position for power. Is there a simple way of doing this?
The area where there are 6 circular wholes, the male plug at the top left needs to be moved to the top right position for power. Is there a simple way of doing this?
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#10
11-09-2010, 02:38 PM
Can someone post the info on changing the pin out when swapping seats? I am install sport seats into a 2002 996TT. The seats are from a GT2.
#12
11-09-2010, 04:31 PM
I got that part, but I am not sure about where the pins should be, I haev tried a few different configurations, but the seats still won't work.
